Vr Commodore Brakes
have a vr commy. my brake pedal went to floor this arvo, not loosing fluid. once it goes to floor if u pump it goes hard then goes back to floor slowly then ya brake light comes on, anyone know what it could be. cheers.
Blues Brother # 1
Does the Car stop at all? Does it just slowly slow down once pressed all the way to the floor ?
I Had the same thing happen to me, foot when straight to the floor, was the brake master cylinder. Pretty easy to change. then got to bleed all the brakes.
Torana Addict
Pump up the pedal with the car turned off, when the pedals hard apply pressure. Does it slowly sink to the floor?
sure does sink to the floor after a few pumps with car off. and its not loosing fluid.
HI its getting air from somewhere,prop master cyl.needs bleeding
Torana Addict
Originally Posted by vrbloke-77
Could be the brake booster then.
maybe its best to take it to a mechanic. no point replacing the brake master cylinder if it aint that
Blues Brother # 1
when ya brake it stops but then the pedal goes to floor to the point where ya braking harder and the brake light comes on and ya have no brakes
Donating Member
What is happening is the the piston seal in master cylinder is allowing fluid to leak past the piston. Bleeding will not achieve anything as it's not caused by air in the system....just age/wear. The leak is happening inside the master cylinder so there will be no visible leaks.
You have only one option - a replacement master cylinder...new is about $200 or wreckers $60. I'd do it soon.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
yeah hako ill head to the wreckers in morn hopefully they arent to hard to change. might give ya a few dollars if ya can help.
and the probs been gettin worse, noticed it last night has been funny for a few months when sometimes ya gotta give it extra pumps but this time it went to floor
'
Donating Member
Make sure you get the correct MC for your VR as ABS ones are different and try and get a MC straight from a wreck that still has working brakes - this way you will know it's OK. If you bench bleed the MC you may not need to bleed the brakes.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
where u located mate aint a big job at all and if he can't help ya i can if sth eastern suburbs
toowoomba qld mate, still payin off a new gearbox with me mechnaic so i dont wanna hit him up again
went to wreckers today got a master cylinder however the one he gave me had three tube ports mine only has 2 i however it matched my number 15/18.
i guess the 3 hole one is for non abs and as me car has abs my original master cylinder only has 2 holes. they are both 15/18 pressure tho. back to wreckers in morn by the looks. hopefully when i get the correct part my brake pad wont fade to the floor. any tricks when installing the new master cylinber. the workshop manual says fit it, then bleed brakes and road test and pump pedal
Donating Member
Re the correct MC I ain't gunna say I told you so!......not sure if I'll be home but you can try. If not and you do it yourself, first you remove the old MC - unbolt lines/remove electrical plug/remove nuts to booster. Before you fit the new MC try and mount it in a vyce upright - then fill with fluid and use a large screwdriver to force the piston in a few times to fill the piston with fluid...do this a few times till no more bubbles come out..then holding it upright bolt the brake lines first then bolt to MC....hopefully then there will be minimal air in the lines. If you fit the MC dry/empty you will have a lot of air to get rid of PLUS the ABS may retain some air so if at all possible make sure the new MC has plenty of brake fluid in it. Don't forget to buy at least 2 bottles of DOT 4 brake fluid(~$6 ea SuperCheap)
Google 'bench bleeding master cylinder"...this will explain it fully.
Take your time and before you undo anything place the new MC alongside the old MC to make sure they are identical....make sure it is off a VR (don't think VS ABS are the same but could be wrong).
Good Luck.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
ok mate will give that ago just relaised anyway i cnat get car to toowoomba so ill be stuck at helidon spa. im getting a cab to work in morn then will fo to wreckers get correct part then when i finish at 2 come home fit it. hopefully this will fix the problem.
Torana Addict
Just a tip, when bench bleeding the MC, make sure where the lines go in isn't pointing at anything important as the brake fluid will squirt out pretty hard. Don't let the fluid run out while doing this either.
Other than that it's a straight swap if you've got the right part, bleed the brakes and see how the pedal goes.
sweet as mate will let ya know how i go. am takin a pic of me MC to wreckers to get the right one. sick of bein givin wrong bits. home tomorrow arvo to do the MC, the brake bootser, pads rotors wont have anything to do with pedal goin to floor. AS HAKO said def MC. I need me car for work as i live 20mins out of town.
Good point Hangman...Did this some time ago ona fresh paint job on the HQ..Was a bit pissed off..
Still trying to work out how the booster causes the pedal to sink....MMMMMMM
Real cars are steel cars.
Ummmmm....No.
Faulty boosters mostly cause a hard pedal, not a sinking one.
I think Hangman means that a correctly functioning booster will cause the pedal to drop slighty when the engine is started. (Assuming the pedal was pumped with the engine off to remove the stored vacuum)
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
am havin serious p4oblems removing the old MC 2 bolts that attach it to booster are hard to get at and im unable to do one of the line. anyhelp be appreciated
got all bolt out except one tiny nut that connect to MC form the Brake Line
Posting Permissions
1Likes
LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks
Reply With Quote