VS UTE
VS UTE read before buying
I recently got my hands on a vs commodore series 3 it seemed great on the test drive but be warned. some common problems are steering rack, idler pulley, brake calliper wear, fuel pump, if lowered get the suspension checked. be sure to look at these things before you buy otherwise you could be looking up to an extra $7000 to be spent
yea mate same thing happen to me, had to pay 6000 to get it all fix
what to put here?
7 grand are you joking???? i bought a series 3 with no issues at all and it had done 240xxx and only needed a power steering pump, if your spending 7 grand on those things then your getting ripped big time
Mate i bought my S3 5spd VS V6 ute for $5500 and it has only a few problems that will cost me at max $700 to fix so i think you got ripped off on your car.
Hand over the dog bikkies
You got ripped.
Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like
Donating Member
Good advice to first car buyers.Originally Posted by 20Reino00
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
VS UTE
I paid $7000 for the ute. $1200 power steering rack and pump with fitting. $1800 suspension thats springs struts and fitting. $250 fuel pump fitted. pulleys $200 fitted.front brake calipers, rotors and pads $800 thats ve upgrade. there were bushes and alot of other small things that add up i only paid about $4500 all together to fix mine up but if you were to go high quality it could be right up there so just a warning for buyers.
The main thing Ive found with the VS models is the loud moaning,groaning sound that the steering makes on these cars when the steering wheel is turned ,you can hear it mostly when parking etc.When I first got my VS sedan,it had this moaning groaning noise really badly.I was told by a couple of different mechanics that it was the steering rack and P/S pump,and that they needed replacing.I then read on here about the bush in the steering column where it passes through the firewall into the engine bay,this bush drys out and causes this same noise.I sprayed this dry bush with WD40 and years later the noise has has never come back.So much for replacing the P/S pump and rack,it would have been good money wasted as 6 years later there still going ok.I had my doubts about this bush causing the noise at first,as the noise didnt seem to come from that area,but low and behold,a few sprays of WD and shes all dead quiet again,so if you have any noise in the steering when the wheel is turned and it sounds like it might be the P/S pump or rack or whatever,then firstly spray this bush with WD to see if the noise goes away,it might just save you a heap of cash.Ive fixed a few VS's now that have had this problem.Their owners were more than happy to have the problem fixed so easily and cheaply..
Torana Addict
My VS makes that noise when turning, so does my VP though not as bad. Might give that a go.
Obviously Unsensible
is that a "Knocking" noise or is it liike a fluidy sound (at full lock)?
Yet Another VS Ute Owner
This isn't just VS Utes, it's any car in general.
The key is to just look over a car and be sure of what you're buying, but in reality, in buying private it's a hard thing to know if you're getting what you paid for.
Plus, VS utes are overpriced, it's a known fact to anyone, be prepared to fork out when buying one.
But, they are bloody worth it, toughest ute out.
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...first-car.html My VS Ute, 99', S Pac, 5 Speed.
any car will have these common problems so its always good to have a close look when buying. I own a seires 3 vs ute v6 manual with just under 300k on the clock. im a p plater and this is my first car so its had a bit of a thrashing and only things ive had to replace from general driving is engine mounts and idler bearing is due to be change haha apart from that there great tough looking utes
Gave up on VL's
Was these faults you found or were you told by a mechanic?
( .Y. )
The thing that gets me is people run out and buy a car that is near 15 years old and complain about its condition? If you wanted a car that was in new condition then buy a new toyota echo or something for the same money your spending on buying the car then having it fixed.
I know enough about cars to understand if something should be replaced because ita a danger to myself or more importantly, other drivers. But be fcuked if i'll replace things bassed on apperance and the "oh its going to be a problem in the future".
I understand that some people dont know heaps about cars and souly rely on Mechanics but some of them can be a bit anal with things and sweet talk you out of thousands of bucks... If my car starts, goes and stops then im happy...
You paid someone $1200 to undo 3 bolts, 2 nuts and two hoses?! WTF.
And $1800 to get $500 (new) worth of suspension replaced? Come give me $1300 labour for half a days work!
The only things you didn't REALLY get ripped on were the fuel pump (which is un-lucky if it takes you longer than 10mins to replace) and the brakes - which cost more than that to buy, let alone fit.
Did this ute you bought for 7k even run? Was it idling rough as F___?
If the fuel pump and pulleys were stuffed the bugger wouldn't start and if it did the "knackered" pulleys would give it that lovely death-rattle feeling.
Pwr steer on commodores is almost always noisy - theres no need to spend $1200 on it.
You got ripped off, and now you are stuck with a $12,000 ute (assuming V6?) that wasn't worth what you paid for it to start with - and still isn't!
RACV pre-vehicle inspection is like $150. And I would be willing to bet that they would of said that most of that crap didn't need doing.
( .Y. )
My thoughts exactly
VS Ute
Yea Vs ute has some general problems but like a few people said comes down to its past life. Got mine of ebay for $4000 with the expectation of it needing some work, Dual fuel hardly used for two years and he said "Heaving towing of boat" So problems like the diff and gear box, Well replaced gear box for $500 including labour, Had a spare with 150 000km. Diff was fine, Engine did need a big service but did all my self saved hundreds,
Gas did back fire under heavy accelerating but replacing the ignition coils solved that. Slotted front brake rotors, Custom air intake etc, Little amount of rocker noise but a tune might be all that's needed. Did all new rear suspension, KYB shocks and king springs. Front to be done soon, Was over heating due to cracked radiator.
NOT lowered as whats the point of owning a work ute if lowered. Just reached 220 000km done the radiator, starter motor, water pump, oil, Filters and fan belt. About $260 for the lot did the work all myself. save hundreds and learn important basic about maintaining a car.
VS UTE
i had a look around and asked the mechanic who is a mate for an opinion so yeah they were sort of between us.
Donating Member
It seems you payed way too much for some of those reapairs, in particular the steering rack and suspension and the VE brake upgrade was your choice and cost way more than standard rotors and pads.
MY RIDE
I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken.
Reco rack $350 and pump $110 not sure why ya would pay so much more to get it fitted and suspension was that all new springs and shocks all round with every bush in the car or just front struts and springs no bushes ? it cost me about 400 for new struts strut tops and bearings no new springs dident relise springs were so dear and only took about 2 hours to chage both sides. long story short you payed way over the top.
VS UTE
suspension was everything 4 new springs and shocks and all bushes
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