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Thread: Starter Motor repalcement VS commodore

  1. #1
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    VS Acclaim - 96

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    Default Starter Motor repalcement VS commodore

    Has anyone out there changed a starter motor in a VS acclaim before series 2 96 model i think

    Workshop manual seems pretty useless just says to remove the 2 bolts
    which is fine if you can get to the bolt

    one of the 2 bolts seems to be hidden by a bracket of some sort, i checked
    the below link out and it mentioned for the VN removing the compressor to
    get the bracket out im wondering if the VS is the same

    How to Change a Starter Motor

    I realise i may need to drop the steering rack once starter motor is loose but
    i cant even get that far

    cheers,

    rob

  2. #2
    Not_An_Abba_Fan's Avatar
    Not_An_Abba_Fan is offline Exhaust Guru
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    Easiest way is to undo the engine pipes and remove them, then you can get to the starter very easily. The heatshield is held on by two bolts, they are easy to get to with the engine pipe assembly out of the way too.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

  3. #3
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    VS II Ute V6 1996

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    Hi Mate, below is what I posted regarding replacing a starter motor in a VS six cylinder in this thread. Changing VS Starter Motor
    One thing I forgot to write when I wrote this was I removed the front wheel to make things easier.

    I recently changed the starter motor in my car. I had done this type of thing before, and I found the VS 6 cyl. to be relatively difficult compared to other cars. You need to disconnect the battery, and jack the car up and onto stands.

    There is a brace of some sort you need to remove that covers one of the bolts that hold the starter motor in. Getting this brace off and the two starter motor bolts out is easy, getting the main power cable off was a pain.

    I disconnected the positive terminal from the battery so I could pull the cable from the starter motor end to get as much length on it as I could, but it was still difficult to get a spanner onto the nut which held it on the starter motor. Once I finally got this off, (and there is a thinner wire that also needs to be disconnected, but this just pulls off easily) I had to then manoeuvre the motor around a lot to get it down through a small gap between the exhaust and the steering rack boot, being careful not to tear a hole in the boot.

    Then manoeuvre the new motor to where I could get the power cable back on, and you want make sure you get this on tight, because if it is loose you will have dramas starting the car, and you will have to go through it all again to get it tight. Bolt everything back up, and get it started. Another thing to consider is some cars have shims (spacers), where the bolts go through, to position the starter motor correctly, so you may have to deal with this also.

  4. #4
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  5. #5
    jatsvl's Avatar
    jatsvl is offline NEEDS MORE POWER!
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    I just did this last week, you must have patience!
    I did pretty much the same as chappo_1 with some differences e.g. I removed the negative battery terminal, I used a short 3/8 drive rachet with a tilt head (to get the power lead off) and I didn't remove the wheel.
    I found to get it out it takes lots of manouvering you need to roll it over about 180degrees and while trying to pull the bulky (square) end through the small gap you need to tilt the back end up (I used a long extension bar just in front of the cross member.) try to remember which way the square end comes out, for when you put the new one in, near as I could tell it only goes in one way.
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