will a vr speedo still work if the wheels are off the ground?
i converted my vr to manual and i cant get the speedo working, i have tested everything, it is wired up exactly how the complete manual conversion guide says.
the only thing i can think of now is that its not working because i am testing it with the wheels off the ground. it on car stands and i let the clutch out in first, the wheels spin but nothing happens on the speedo. so yeah all i can think of is the car has to be on the ground for the speedo to work cause maybe there not going fas enough up in the air.
please help guys
The speedo should work with the rear wheels off the ground.I was doing a similar thing with the rear wheels off the ground when I was trying to find the problem with my cruise control, and I noticed that the speedo was working.Mines VS but VR should be the same..
i cant for the life of me figure this ####ing speedo out then, i have tried everything
The following is for the automatic type VR ECU..Theres a Violet/white wire that goes from the ECU terminal C12 to the speedo,this carries the speed signal for the speedo.The ECU connects to the speed sensor with a Blue/white wire that connects to ECU terminal B5,and another wire that I cant find the colour for,but it connects to the ECU terminal B6 from the speed sensor....
The manual ECU gets its speed sensor signal from a Violet/white wire that comes from the speed sensor ,this wire also goes to the speedo on the manual vehicles..This Violet/white wire connects to ECU terminal A10 on the manual ECU..
why not put it on the ground and take it for a spin?
yeah it says to cut the purple white wire from the speedo side of the ecu and join the signal wire from the speed sensor to it. and give the speed sensor 12v acc and ground (which i have done) i have also cheacked fuses, re-wired it, checked the sensor itself.
but still not working
theres no point taking it for a spin i'm doin the same thing the wheels are just off the ground, otherwise i would have to keep taking it around the block every 5 minutes
Well that definitely sounds like it should work,so I dont know why its not.Is the wire you connected the Violet/white wire to, a Blue/white wire?Originally Posted by giffo2010
nah the manual speed sensor had a purple/white wire, which is supposed to connect to that wire on the speedo side
Yeah sorry, pff,stupid me,manual box = manual speed sensor.The manual speed sensor has a Pink/blue wire that supplies power,a black wire thats earthed,and the Violet/white wire which carries the speed sensor signal..
yeah thats right, they should all be connected correctly
Hmmm,its got me stuffed then,sorry mate,someone here who has already done this conversion should be able to help you though..
Ive been looking at the wiring diagrams,and in a manual car,the speedo gets its signal directly from the speed sensor,whereas in the auto,the speedo signal comes from the ECU.
yea its had me stuffed for about a week now haha, no matter what i try i make no progress. its gotta be something simple tho..........surely
Yeah,you'd have to think so,hey.Have you tried another sensor.That one might be faulty,thats what Id be doing next.
VR T5 has the same sensor as VN-VPs doesn't it - black, screw on, Hall type? If so, if you backprobe the signal wire from the sensor with a test light or a voltmeter to an earth you should see the light switch on-off or the voltage switch between 0 and battery Voltage as the driveshaft is rotated with the ignition on. (You can rotate the driveshaft slowly by hand.)
That will tell you if the sensor is switching. I would also check the same wire at the PCM end.
hmm you may be onto something here cheap6, can you explain in a bit more detail how backprobe the signal wire. cause i'm seriously starting to think its the sensor itself
I would take it around the block to rule out sticking first.
Or at least get it into 2nd and punch the dash.
yeah i had it in second yesterday and gave it a hit
You need to access the terminals for the wires while everything is still connected. For the sensor end you can either dig the little rubber seal(s) out of one of the the connectors, either the sensor or car harness, then gently slide a dressmaker's pin into the back of the terminal (without piercing or bending anything) or run short lengths of wire between the terminals in the connectors to allow access. Then connect the test light/voltmeter between the now accessible signal wire and an earth.
If you use the earth wire that you have connected to the speed sensor you will check it at the same time.
It may be easier to start at the PCM end where to access the terminal (C12?, from brett_jj's post above) you disconnect the PCM connector and remove the blue or grey plastic anti-back out comb then, with the connector plugged back into the PCM, use the pin to access the terminal from the back (wire side), also connecting the test light/voltmeter between that and an earth.
Then rotate the driveshaft and watch for the light or voltage to switch.
The Hall sensor is just a switch. In this case it switches the signal voltage, which should have ~12V on it open circuit, to the sensor earth. The ~12V "power" wire to the sensor powers the Hall switch with the earth common to the switch and the signal wires. It may help to search for "Hall sensor" more generally if you need to understand how it works.
ok i got it all sorted, there was a broken track on the back of my cluster. i found it after digging around with a multimeter for a couple of hours :P
i just used a bit of tin foil to dix the track and it worked.
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