My gearbox is being a little shit, i cant be rolling and put it into first or it grinds like F*ck.
When i go from Second to First it grinds like all F*ck, my brother Reconditioned the Motor and Gearbox for me, the gearbox was working fine for about 2-3 months then it started stuffing up? what should i do, get a new one or get it fixed.
Try adjusting the clutch - from the sound of it, the clutch is not releasing fully....also check where the clutch cable goes thru the bulkhead....check the bulkhead is not flexing there.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
How about when you select reverse - does it grind or go into gear smoothly?
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
OK...clutch is not the problem...probably the synchro ring on first gear...if it's busted/worn or whetever it will be dumping pieces of metal thru the oil....and this will eventually stuff the box, so I'd get the brother back on to it. I'd also drain the oil and see if it does contain metal pieces. Does not sound good but hope it turns out good.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
Well ill just get a new box, ill just drive this untill its completley screwed.
Edit: Drained the oil a couple days ago, no metal pieces in it???
Try learning how to double de-clutch ....us old buggers do it all the time when going down the gears.....it saves wear on the synchros and makes down changing much smoother and quicker plus gives you much more enjoyment in knowing you can judge revs and speed just by sound and feel. When you have it fully mastered you can change up or down without using the clutch...but it's best to still use the clutch!.
Back a few years, all gearboxes had a straight cut first gear with no syncho, so you had to double de-clutch to get into 1st when rolling....and back before synchros were invented all the gears were straight cut...lots of trucks were built this way till the 50's.
I hate to say it, but a lot of fun has been taken out of driving.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
Sounds like the brother knows his business....once it becomes a habit and you do it all the time you will find it makes driving more smoother especially when changing down and you don't get that lurch when the clutch takes up and 'forces' the engine to higher revs. Also a good way to impress your mates!
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
so is double clutching different to giving the throttle a blip before downshifting? iv never seen the benefit of putting the clutch in, going to neutral letting the clutch out, putting it back in and shifting into the next gear.
can someone learn me on this if im way off?
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iv tried doing that double press on the clutch, its just slow and annoying. i dont see how its quicker than rev up, clutch in, next gear, clutch out? but as far as smooth, thats what synchros and helical gears are for.
back to the OPs original post, i found that with constant drifting abuse and jamming back from second to first to initiate compression lock, that was the only time it crunched because i was intentionally going back to too high revs. but other than an annoying rattle in neutral (which iv been told is very common for the T5) apparently my box was actually in quite good nick. i changed mine coz i was told is wouldnt hold up to the 400hp im expecting.
so as for your box, sounds liek either input shaft bearings have collapsed or the synchros have crapped out on ya. as was said, drop the fluid n see what comes out.
I also make Electronic Dance Music
http://www.youtube.com/user/klampykixx?feature=mhee
Mine don't rattle at all? The car shakes at about 3 1/2 - 6k rmp, I drained it about 4 days ago, no bits of metal in it ?
This in part is from wiki:
* The clutch pedal is pressed, the throttle is released, and the gearbox is shifted into neutral.
* The clutch pedal is then released. As the engine idles with no load, the RPM will decrease until they are at a level suitable for shifting into the next gear.
* The driver then depresses the clutch again and shifts into the next gear. The whole maneuver can, with practice, take no more than a fraction of a second, and the result is a very smooth gear change.
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When you arer very proficient at it, you can make changes quicker than by letting the synchromesh synchronise the gears. Listen to the way racing cars change gears.
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"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
the way race car dirvers change gears (V8 supercars) clutch out in first, and then lift off slightly then jam into the next gear then back into it. and then heel toe for down shifting. no double clutching there. beside the point but. and in my VR with cable clutch its a fairly long travel pedal with alot of spring to it, im sure in a hydraulic setup it would be alot easier to double clutch.
but back to the OP, no metal, but a vibration between 3-6krpm? thats not good. could possibly be a bad spigot? making the input shaft off center? that could also throw the clutch disc off center and cause improper release making the shifts crunch?
I also make Electronic Dance Music
http://www.youtube.com/user/klampykixx?feature=mhee
And it's not vibration the car just shakes like shit. Like the engines gunn a jump out
first gear is its own section. the rest of the gear cluster runs on a bearing that fits inside 1st gear. so if 1st is crunching id almost bet it has something to do with either the input bearing or the spigot bush. i found that my front bearing was loose in its housing and was spinning the outer part of bearing instead of running in the actuall rollers. it was slowly getting worse. i had to machine out the front housing and have an oversize bearing pressed in. then i gave up and fitted a toyota box n sold the T5 to my brother.
I also make Electronic Dance Music
http://www.youtube.com/user/klampykixx?feature=mhee
with the appropriate adaptors anything can fit really. i got my conversion bellhousing from dellow automotive. a very helpful bunch. id suggest talking to them about a possible conversion kit.
I also make Electronic Dance Music
http://www.youtube.com/user/klampykixx?feature=mhee
V8 Supercars are not traditional 'racing cars' I guess....maybe listen to Brabham or Stirling Moss.
Re the spigot - that's a good suggestion but would'nt there be noise when clutch depressed between every gear. I reckon metal will soon be in the oil...I remember a few of my boxes when the oil looked like silverfrost (aluminium paint).
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux