hey today my vs started to clunk into gears like from park to D it would make a noise clunking, i checked my fluid and it seems a bit high people have suggested this problem others rekon new tranny... car has done 260k full serv hist thanks.
Maybe a bit of slop in your diff or a uni?
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probably time for a new trans man
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are you checking it running in park, 260k probably due for a reckon mate take it to a tranny shop they will be able to help you, about 2500 for a reckon box
I have the original transmission and my car has done 360 000kms,OP it just needs a good service.
As above - get it serviced and get them to check the engine mounts at the same time....worn mounts can allow the engine/transmission to hit the body and clunk when going from P to R or D.
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i checked fluid cold was in cold range in park running it barely touches the stick
and like after it is turned off it goes up like half the dip stick does this matter?
Check it hot...make sure you are on level ground and dip it a few times to make sure. The cold mark is just for when you refill after draining the oil....should always be tested hot with engine running. Check colour of oil - should be pink.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
Check for slop in the tailshaft at the uni joints first.
Common problem. Clunks from P to D or R but makes the worst clunk from D to R.
Sounds metallic and if it you turn your head sideways while you try D to R you should hear it come from the back.
does it change harshly while driving? if so id be checking the TPS. $40 for a new TPS is a hell of a lot cheaper than $2500 for a new trans
Yes should be checked running
$2500?! No way, maybe for an original vs box never been used. my mechanic is getting me one for $900, check ebay all sorts of prices for reco box's, from $700- $1500...
A good service would be to check the condition of the valve body, accumulator pistons and seals and apply pistons and seals, as well as get a multimeter and ensure the manifold pressure switch and the solenoids are ok, thats the short version too. A good service takes a little bit more then the 15-20 minute filter change
Strongly Disagree the only reason you start checking valve body, accumulator pistions and seals, as well as soloniod are ok is when theres a problem, and a solonoid can test right but play under heat? short version? pressure control soloind usually plays up first but depends what its doing, what if it a stuck valve or a broken spring. this is getting into more time more money, not a service.