Transmission cooler pipes F*#KED

[spud_22]

So my transmission cooler pipes have been rubbing around the engine to the point were they have split and sprayed transmission fluid all through the engine bay. Lucky i noticed it just as it happened and didn't let the transmission run dry. Has this happened to anyone before, it looks like it could happen very easily. So got it toed to some auto place and they tell me they cant get any pipes from anywhere they cant even get a place to make them. ( Should say its at FORD and they prob couldn't give a s*#t about my poor HOLDEN.). So has anyone replaced their pipes and where did they get them from, I will be calling holden tomorrow to try find some. Does anyone in the ballarat area have any for sale, Its a long shot.
Cheers guys

[getadeal]

When i changed the transmission on my vs commodore i couldn't get the pipes to line back up to screw the threads into the box, so i cut the pipes and made flexible ends. I used some trans cooler hose from sprints and double clamped the hose over the pipe with hose clamps, it is still holding to this day and i travel 120 ks a day.

So i guess what i'm trying to say is cut out the split section of pipe and use hose.

[spud_22]

yea ok not a bad idea. Only prob is im in ballarat atm and home is down mornington way, so i have no tools or anything

[Pickle']

Im with 'getatdeal' I did the same with my VR when i chaged the engine over. I managed to bend the pipe at some stage in the process of changing engines but we wont go there

[Jamiejamie]

Surprised it's holding with clamps. Theirs so much pressure in those lines hence why they have the pressure fittings on the ends.

[Pickle']

yea ok not a bad idea. Only prob is im in ballarat atm and home is down mornington way, so i have no tools or anything

read your own sig

[SweetWagon]

Surprised it's holding with clamps. Theirs so much pressure in those lines hence why they have the pressure fittings on the ends.

Earlier v6's didnt even use high pressure fittings... I also fixed my by using some flexible section, they would be a real pain to replace while the engine is in car too!

[spud_22]

There isnt enough duct tape on the plant that could stop this leak. lol i noticed that as soon as i went onto the thread

[getadeal]

Surprised it's holding with clamps. Theirs so much pressure in those lines hence why they have the pressure fittings on the ends.

Couldn't be that much pressure, seeing as series one VS's had push on fittings to the trans cooler in the radiator from factory.

[noddycommodore]

The commodores where prone to this from factory. I have been working in a Holden dealership for many years and I have seen this many many times, you may be able to get them new vr's are getting old now. There a fair bit of work to change but wreckers should keep them they can be a bit lazy so you may need to remove them your self.

[Jacko84]

hey mate none in australia as i know of new were at a tranny shop and couldnt get new ones anywhere a couple months ago id be hitting up a wrecker, common problem on vr/vs

[EDGE3]

The reason they have been rubbing is that the engine mounts might be worn thus making the engine drop lower so over time wearing out the lines same thing happened to my car once ended up putting a rubber hose over the holes and clamping both ends and to this day its still on my car and it hasnt leaked since and yes I had the engine mounts replaced

[Cracka]

you can still buy them brand new, I have replaced them on several different cars over the years and it can be an absolute C of a job, but it doesn't have to be either.

You wont need any special tools for a very basic emergency repair.

1. Bucket to drain fluid into when you cut the line.
2. Small Hack saw or hack saw blade and a rag :P
3. Screw Drivers
4. 10mm socket extensions and ratchet.

A. Undo the lines from the radiator end
B. Start undoing the bolts holding the line mounts on untill you can get to the damaged section (10mm from memory)
C. Get your bucket under the damaged area and hack saw away the damaged section
D. Slip the section of hose over the each end with four hose clamps on it (Two per end)

To do this properly you should flare the ends of the pipe slightly or if your farily hand fit barbs to each end (Thread on or brazed) Brazing can be tricky when everything is covered in oil.

In either case this should get you out of trouble for a while.

When fitting new ones it is generally easier to drop the exhaust manifold on the drivers side (Actually its a must) and the steering rack (Optional)

I have also seen these replaced completly with expensive flexible lines running along the origional path into rubber sleeves where the origional mounts are located but in my opinion this style of system would be more prone to issues.

Goodluck.