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Thread: Vs brake problems

  1. #1
    Ride
    vs series2 wagon

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    Jun 2011
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    Lake Tahoe, ca.
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    Default Vs brake problems

    Hi guys, had my vs wagon since 2000 and love it, its now got a problem of a pedal that moves almost to the floor before the brakes work. Now this is what I've done so far to fix the problem without a big difference.
    New brake fluid (bleeding done 4 times)
    New front pro bendix pads
    New front DBA slotted rotors (old ones were gone)
    Changed the master cylinder for another one.
    Still not much change. Could it be the ABS unit??
    Now the brakes work a lot better but there's still way too much movement in the pedal.

    Any ideas?

    cheers ,
    niko.

  2. #2
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    vr commodore bt1

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    Jun 2011
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    geelong
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    Did you do a abs fluid flush? This involves a scan tool, when you do a normal brake fluid flush you don't flush all of the fluid out of the abs pump,

  3. #3
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    vs series2 wagon

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    Default

    No didn't know I needed a special tool to bleed them. Can you buy that tool or is it a for a pro to do?

  4. #4
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    vr commodore bt1

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    geelong
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    You could buy a tool but it's a lot cheaper for a pro to do. The tool I bought was 6.5k and it's nothing special

  5. #5
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    vs commodore

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    Oct 2009
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    Default

    A lower than usual or spongy brake pedal on ABS equipped vehicles can be caused by a tiny amount of air that gets trapped in the ABS modulator when the brakes are bled....The brake pedal on these cars should feel really firm and have just a little amount pedal travel when the brake system has been bled properly with new pads fitted..Ive helped a few people out now who've had similar problems on ABS equipped commodores after theyve bled the brakes.Ive got a Tech 1 scantool.Its got a brake bleed option under the ABS menus,this brake bleed option will activate the ABS, which then releases any trapped air in the ABS modulator,and also allows any air thats trapped between the master cylinder and the modulator to pass through the modulator and through to the calipers where it can be bled out...
    If you cant borrow a scantool from somewhere,and dont want to pay for the privilage, you can try locking the wheels up on some gravel or grass (on private property of course),which will activate the ABS,you will feel the brake pedal pulsate as the ABS does its thing, and then hopefully it will let any trapped air out of the modulator and through to the calipers where it can be bled out,so just lock it up a few times and rebleed the brakes again, making 100% sure that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder does'nt drop below 3/4 during the bleeding process,theres nothing worse than having to rebleed them again because air was sucked into the master cylinder when the fluid level was allowed to get too low.

  6. #6
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    vs series2 wagon

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    Lake Tahoe, ca.
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    Default

    Thanks Brett, that's what I needed to hear. I'll call around the mates and see if I can get a unit. If not I've got 10 acres to play in

    Cheers ,
    niko.

  7. #7
    hako is offline Donating Member
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    VS11 BT1 V6

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    Toowoomba SE QLD
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    You need to give your brakes at least 1000km of use before they are bedded in - till then you will have a low pedal.
    "If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
    "The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux

  8. #8
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    vs series2 wagon

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    Lake Tahoe, ca.
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    Default

    Had the low pedal before I put new pads on. I did get the abs to kick in a few times today and then reblead and its better but not perfect.


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