VS manual conversion issues

[dwerbnok]

hey
i have 90% completed a manual conversion on a 1997 Vs seriesII it has the engine and T5 box from a series 1 Vs installed into it and the whole conversion is effectively complete, the engine runs and the gearbox/pedals etc are all installed but the engine runs extremely rough. it makes that popping noise that is made when the timing is out on a car with a distributor but ecotecs dont have a dizzy. there is a vacuum hose that i have not been able to reconnect, this hose runs from the bottom side of the throttle body and then ends in a rubber 90 degree turn. im assuming that this vacuum hose has something to do with the running issue but yeah if anyone has any idea why its not running right then i would be grateful for any help.

cheers

Luc

[hako]

Probably the charcoal canister.

[Claudy]

Pretty sure that hose goes to the fitting underneath ur plenum, on top of the valley on the passenger side, it for the PCV

[SweetWagon]

It goes to the fuel purge valve, located at the rear of drivers side cylinder head. Our VT would'nt even start when that disconnected

[klampy]

just put ur thumb over the nipple under the TB and if it smooths out then you know what to do.... i had that same issue with the VX i just did the top on, didnt quite seal that exact vacuum line and it idled like it had a mega cam in it! but seriously, it was bad. so fixed the vac line n back to a smooth(ish) idle.

[IBLOWN]

Vacuum leak wont cause popping and farting. Only causes idle problems really. Sounds like the ECU is in limp home mode for some reason. Are you using a manual ECU & harness? Is the CEL on?

[klampy]

it did in my VX IBlown. it barely idled, popped crackled, stalled repeatedly and if i held the throttle open a tiny bit it would smooth out but missed badly.

im not saying your wrong, and my experience may not even be right for this instant.

[dwerbnok]

yeah it misses badly and pops and whatnot, ill try connecting that line now and see if it smooths it out!
thanks for the quick replies

Luc

[klampy]

just put ur thumb over it. quick in easy way to rule it out.

[tosue]

shit on the seats

[dwerbnok]

i reattached the line to the fuel purge valve but the car still seems to run rough, ill work on it more tomorrow and see how we go

[dwerbnok]

hmm i have fully attached the charcoal canister to the engine and the vacuum lines and stuff but the car still runs rough, so i put a different coil setup onto the car and it still runs rough. it idles at 1500 rpm and backfires occasionally i have new oil in it and the gearbox along with a new clutch so i dont know what it could be. ill pull all the plugs out and see but yeah any suggestions would be awesome.
cheers

[klampy]

when i did the VX top end, i put new plugs in, put a mace spacer in, and it ran like poo. idled like a Massive cam but missed n popped n farted n carried on like real PIG. i then found the leaky TB vacuum line, fixed that. idled smoother but not fixed. then i discovered that by putting 4 out of five plenum bolts left a hole in the plenum to leak thru, fixed that then ran alot smoother but still not smooth, then found the sensor on the back of the head wasnt connected properly so replaced the vacuum 90degree boot and then id instantly idled smooth but still missed. so i checked the plugs, and put the originals back in with a new set of leads and hey presto, smooth idle. with the occasional miss from old plugs(which ill be changing soon)

so the moral of the story, double check all your vacuum points, make sure all your sensors are plugged in and actualy connected, check your plugs/leads, and maybe also a tank of injector cleaner. as mine were dirty from catching the grot on the manifold when pulled out.

[dwerbnok]

argh this car is doin my head in i cant work out why it isnt running right. i took it for a drive yesterday after battling with it trying to stop it idling close to 2000rpm. after swapping the iac valve on the throttle body for one off my other vs, my car began to idle at its normal frustrating ~1800rpm, i found that when i blip the throttle to around 3500rpm the engine will slowly settle down to a reasonably smooth idle below 1000rpm. so i pull out of the driveway and realise i havent bled the brakes after having to use the handbrake to stop :P so i bled the brakes then took the car for a cruise. it pulled hard and i even accidentally got sideways but after around 1 min of driving the engine light on the dash began flickering randomly and the car was surging and missing and almost cutting out and it wouldnt put any power down at all so i limped it home and parked her up. i bought sparkies today but the guy gave me the wrong ones coz i forgot to bring a spare with me. the sparkies on the car all have flat edged electrodes and dont seem to be the prob but i may as well replace them. a mate is lending me some leads to check if its them and yeah im on the computer more than working on my car trying to google the problems but despite trying heaps of things suggested online im still getting nowhere. its frustrating that after having completed so much im stuck on this problem for more time than all the previous work combined!!!

[m62vpute]

I would be checking any of the codes that flashed up when you were driving. If all the vacuum leaks have been fixed then it sounds like it could be a ecu problem. I assume you have used the manual loom and ecu. Limp home mode FTW

[dwerbnok]

yeah its a manual box with its original engine and entire loom ecu etc, i checked error codes and 12 came up over and over again so i assume its all good ecu wise. when the ecu light was flashing it wasnt flashing like when you check the codes, it was erratic and much faster than the flashes for the codes.