Hey guys first of all i'd like to say that im aware of the many ignition related threads. But im not overly sure any relate completely to my issue. And i have a few questions in need of answering =)
A couple of months back i bought a VR Calais locally in country NSW. My first car =) Went through the hassle of getting it registered. About 2 weeks after officially calling it my own it randomly refused to start. Winding over and not firing.
Around this time the key got a bit sticky in the ignition barrel. And would take a bit of loving to get in just right, seeming to jam inside somewhere. The problem seems to be getting worse. The loving has become a little more rough to get the key around to acc.
Would the best idea be to replace the barrel completely ? Living in Rural NSW it takes time for parts to come out here. I'd really hate it if my key refused to turn one day and i have to execute my housing =/
I found this on ebay, would it be worth investing in for a quick fix?
COMMODORE VN VG VP VR VS IGNITION BARREL WITH KEYS | eBay
Thanks for your attention
EDIT: I forgot to mention that my car did start after an hour of waiting. And that only occasionally this problem occurs.
Last edited by St3alth187; 22-06-2011 at 06:15 PM.
Check you're fuel pump, filter etc.
if its turning over, i dont think it would be the ignition.
As for keys and barrels, try putting graphite in the lock, dont use oil or wd40.
To replace the key barrel (which is your first problem!), you must be able to turn the old barrel with your key to remove the barrel....if you cannot turn the key to ignition, you may have to basically destroy the unit to get the old barrel out....so do it soon!! You have the "imminent failure signs now". Then do a code check.....actually do it before you remove the ignition because if you do it after replacing the barrel which necessitates disconnecting the battery, all the fault codes will be erased.
Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised) Good Luck.
If the worst happens, this will be of help: How to remove a stuck ignition barrel VN-VS
And here is how to remove the barrel properly: how to remove ignition barrel...vs
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
Thanks guys =) Will follow advice !
Cheers =D
Jake
Okay so my barrel should be here by friday, if not monday at the latest.
My car refused to start again at the bowser. A friend of mine that is a mechanic came to check it out. 30 minutes later it started. ( on its own accord i believe )
I noticed when driving home, my blinkers weren't working. And several attempts to start the car triggered the horn or the alarm to sound. When i got home i turned it off, started it easily and checked my blinkers. Both of which were working.
This has lead me to believe it is definately ignition related. Either the ignition isnt turning the right part of the car on or it just hates my guts.
Ideas would be very helpful
Cheers,
Jake
that actually sounds bcm related as it controls security and blinkers etc.. so id be looking at that.
Current project VH SL SEDAN 202
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...-83-vh-sl.html
Last project VH SL WAGON L67
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...h-wagooon.html
Oh really? How would i go about replacing that ? Because i have no clue what so ever; what it does, where it is or even how to locate it =)
- I pulled my ignition barrel out today, part is not here; Thought it best as the key was getting harder to turn.
- Lucky i did, a piece at the end had actually broken off and was causing it to jam about half way around.
So im immobile until monday![]()
Cheers,
Jake
Last edited by St3alth187; 25-06-2011 at 10:42 PM. Reason: Pictures
Just a quick update for future readers;
Replaced the barrel, slid straight in with some fiddling and a bit of superhuman strength.
Key turns smooth, like new. However; didnt resolve the issue of starting.
Cleared codes and got a 31; Theft deterrent signal missing?
Steps i could do to resolve this issue?
Cheers,
Jake
Yeah it sounds like the Body Control Module (BCM) as stated they control security in the car.
Also every electrical circuit in the car passes through it!
You will have to buy a new one, however you could use a second hand job but you may be buying someone elses problems.
I had to replace my wifes Calais BCM a couple of years ago & I had to do my VS Calais one last year. it is an easy enough job, just unplug & plug-in wires.
it is located under the drivers fuse cover panel right up under the dash near/or behind the aircon ducting.
1 philips screw usually holds it in place.
when you go to replace the BCM you will need to replace the key heads as the old ones are a different code.
my last BCM cost me $360 (new).
And "NO" you can't recode the old key heads as they are a one time job.
I suggest using a locksmith to re-code the key heads as holden charge roughley, $80 for the key head & $45 to code it to the car.
the lock smith I used charged $80 all up!
i hope that helps & gets you going again.
![]()
Thanks mate, I'll get onto holden next time im in town.
See if that clears my problems =)
Cheers,
Jake
Okay, so i've got the BCM coming finally ! ( Been flat out, exams coming up soon )
However, while driving the other day.. My alarm started going off. At first i thought it was the horn, but i pressed the horn in at the same time and there were two distinguishable sounds coming from the engine bay.
Pulled over and unplugged the alarm ( passenger side near window wiper )
Any thoughts on this ?
Would this issue reinforce the idea of BCM related problems?
Cheers,
Jake
Still having issues with it not starting... Its gotten to the point where i got angry and put my foot through the tail light
However ... The last few times it wouldnt start, i put my foot on the peddle and primed the tank and it fired straight away.
Any ideas?
Cheers,
Jake.
Sounds like a hall effects sensor issue I was having, but they only exist in the V8's.. So id be looking at the Crank Angle Sensor or something along those lines..
I had an error code that was "no signal while cranking" and randomly it would die if I was driving along, and other times it would just refuse to start for up to an hour or so...
Nest time it happens, pull a lead off and get someone to crank it and see if you can get the lead to ark out onto a bolt or something.. If you're not getting spark it will have something to do with the crank or knock sensor... either one.
Sounds like CAS is the next thing on my list along with a knock sensor.
It threw a DTC43 the other day.
Went to drive off from my mums place tonight and my car went mental.
All to do with the key/ignition. Turning the key caused some strange sounds.
Setting off my horn, blinkers ( unlock / lock )
Heres a video, sorry for the lighting.
http://s1070.photobucket.com/albums/...t=IMG_0044.mp4
Half an hour later it starts !
WHAT THE HELL!!!!!
Check the wiring to the ignition switch (the one the key turns) - they can disintegrate internally and cross switch (switch something on when it should be off)...wobble the switch/wires etc.
I had a Jag that would not turn off due to the switch falling apart and also one in a Falcon the kept the starter on which then burnt out the starter plus killed the battery...tow job.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
Battery Terminals !
OMG !
I really am going to be pissed if this intermittent pain in the ass is all because of my positive battery terminal.
Today my car wouldn't start randomly again ( this time being cold )... As i sat in the drivers seat slamming my head on the steering wheel I had a light bulb moment.
The other night my car wouldn't start and was making weird noises etc.. I disconnected the battery before i went in with the screwdriver looking for problems.
I hooked it back up and left it without trying it again.
Came back half an hour later and it started fine.
So i thought i may as well give it a crack... And sure enough.. Bastard fired straight away.
Ill be back to tell you if this method works again. A new set of battery terminals seem to be the answer to this problem I've had since owning this car.
Cheers,
Jake.
Gotta love the power of batteries and how they can screw you around..
Too true mate.
Never had these problems when I owned a bike...
Didnt have to sell my kidney on the black market to buy fuel either.
check your earths under the bonet. one next to the battery and there should be 2 on the front of the engine. these can cause problems and also kill your battery. if its a dodgie earth then basically it reads right at first. then when you ask for more power from the battery, it cant give it cos theres not enough room for it to get thru and will reset. that could also be why you havent had more codes come up because it only takes between 20 seconds and 1 min for the ecu to reset. if you get it running check your stereo settings are still the same cos chances are if it is an earth prob then they will have reset to factory defults.
VS v6 owners check this out CHeck this one out. maybe maybe not to do with u
Thanks mate, still having trouble..
Wont fire intermittently and wont throw a code...
wat bout ur stereo? that keepin its settings?