vs live axel feels like sh*t

[redvs2]

hey fellas my vs feels like sh*t... on the highway every little turn throws you and the body roll is really starting to p*ss me off.
any of you know the best way to make it feel tight. i already have brand new trailing arm bushes, adjustable panhard rod, best whiteline rear sway bar you can buy (not in yet tho) kings lows and munroe gt shocks. the front has nolathane bushes and sway bar (not sure on what size tho)

could it be that the shocks are getting a bit old now (nearly 3 years)?

i every now and then drive my mates vz sv6 and it just feels sooo much more solid and tight. i want the vs to feel like that!

[PanthaVS]

I hate to bash your thread... but...

i already have brand new trailing arm bushes, adjustable panhard rod, best whiteline rear sway bar you can buy (not in yet tho) kings lows and munroe gt shocks. the front has nolathane bushes and sway bar (not sure on what size tho)

You think installing the thicker swaybar (a device made to reduce body roll) might help?!

i every now and then drive my mates vz sv6 and it just feels sooo much more solid and tight. i want the vs to feel like that

You're comparing a 1995-1996 VS commodore with Live axles to a 2004-2007 VZ SV6 with IRS... Of course it handles better... it's also 10 years newer in technology/design...

To give you constructive help... wait till you install the thicker rear swaybar... you should feel a difference.

[redvs2]

is there really any need to be a smart arse? no shit the sway bar will help stiffen up the back... but what about the front. it already noses out as it rolls. and sure the vz is newer but the technology in the front isn't much if at all really different...

[klampy]

when i had my VR on teh road, all i had in was kings superlow springs and a whiteline 30mm front swaybar. kept it flat thats for sure! definately fit the rear one youve bought. you will notice a decent improvement.

[redvs2]

yeah think i might get the best front sway bar i can get too and go from there. then maybe go superlows with shortened shocks. just spent so much money making it go haha now i want to see it go around corners better.
what shocks have you guys tried? also what is the expected lifetime of a shock before it starts getting a bit sloppy

[woteva]

Springs/shocks are fubar and need replacement.
I got super low kings and new shocks from a JC sponsor GSL Ralysport and now it sticks to the road like shit to a blanket.
KYB / Kings Commodore Lowering Packages!

[ucwepn]

The damping rates they use on later models is carefully selected to give a better feel than the previous models. Its the way these car companies do things

[redvs2]

Ordered a 30 mm 4 point adjustable front swaybar on Sunday so will put the 2 on together and see how it goes.

[Snoz]

Check your castor rod bushes. I had a similar problem with a VP recently. I thought it was the rear but turned out to be a front end bush.

[zapper-l67]

Go and get a Pedder $14, 28 point safety check done Dude.. Its cheaper than replacing every bloody component in the car and hoping for the best..
I just had my Race, hilclimb, dragg, fun car in there and $800 later just about ever bush replaced and new struts, shocks and coils and it handles like a race car.


Zapp

[GRPABT1]

Bigger FRONT sway bar is the best mod you can to do improve the handling of just about any RWD car. This should be the first port of call. Then do the rear and then springs and shocks. If you really care about handling and not ride, go for a particularly stiff spring rate in the front or coil overs to counteract early commodores shit weight distribution and weight transfer into corners. Adjustable shocks are great too.

[VS304exec]

my Vs handles way better than my bros Vs and i think it comes down to the IRS in my car and the heavy V8 in the front, as his is a 6... I think the IRS makes a world of difference

[GRPABT1]

IRS is good to an extent. Problem with vp to VZ commodore IRS is that is actually only semi IRS and the wheels do not travel up and down but on an arc giving negative camber issues. It has a tendency to be very unpredictable in motorsport applications and hence V8 supercars still retain live axle. Proper 4 link IRS like that on the VE's is brilliant.

[HarmlessMuffinMan]

Buy a newer car! -nods- :P

[TI3VOM]

Go and get a Pedder $14, 28 point safety check done Dude.. Its cheaper than replacing every bloody component in the car and hoping for the best..
I just had my Race, hilclimb, dragg, fun car in there and $800 later just about ever bush replaced and new struts, shocks and coils and it handles like a race car.
Zapp

Don't go to pedders you pay $14 to get a quote that will be over $2000 guaranteed! Go to Jax or other suspension shops as they do the check/quote's for free.

OP it sounds like your shocks are rooted.

[zapper-l67]

Don't go to pedders you pay $14 to get a quote that will be over $2000 guaranteed! Go to Jax or other suspension shops as they do the check/quote's for free.

OP it sounds like your shocks are rooted.

Yep it doesn't have to be Pedders, if you are unfortunate enough to have a shonky one your way. Just get some good professional advice from a reputable suspension shop ...
Zapp

[redvs2]

Thanks for the input guys. Yeah gonna do both sway bars first and see how she goes after that.

[redvs2]

so to fix the issue of the vs feeling like poo... i have done... right side tie rod end (am going to do left as well tho it isn't loose), all new trailing arm bushes (dont try do it yourself), whiteline 22mm 4 point adjustable rear sway bar, whiteline 30mm 4 points adjustable front sway bar, super low springs all round.
as to be expected the car now feels tighter than my friends vz haha

[vsv6dude]

Hi Redvs2

Just had a look at your VS http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...harged-vs.html

Looks good.

Just some comments to offer I have read that the engine and the gear box components needed to be strengthened (or replaced) when you added the supercharger.

During my time in searching L67 upgrades I have read L67 has different internal components compared to the NA vehicle.

I trust that the L67 engine component upgrades came with the supercharger kit as standard issue.
I note that the auto transmission is still stock.

Not not a mechanic and unable to state which components need upgrading.

Not upgrading could affect long term vehicle durability and return on your pride and joy investment if they have not been attended to.

Some may argue that the upgrades are within the fatigue and yield stress tolerances of the standard L36 engine I would not take the chance as it seems you like to have the vehicle perform for you.

This is not a criticism just forward thinking and friendly questions/advice to consider.

[redvs2]

Hey mate you are right the L67 has forged pistons over the NA Ecotec but I don't think there are much other differences.
The standard ecotec will take a raptor for a fair while before giving out. My engine now has 242,000 and the raptor was put on at 202,000. If you take into consideration that others with "built" ecotecs combined with the raptor are actually making less power and slower times than I am I don't really see the point in changing the internals of the engine. Especially when blowing the engine only means $500 for another second hand one. I think the important thing is regular servicing with good quality oil! This will do wonders to the Durability of any engine.
As far as gear box goes, granted, the standard box won't last long with the supercharger on it. Mine lasted about 27,000k with the charger tho. The gear box was then rebuilt to withstand the power by sureshift automatics last november which made a huge difference to the feel and power of the car.
Thankyou for your input but I know what I am doing with my car.