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Thread: just blew a trye on the vs need advice on rolling gaurds and new tyres

  1. #1
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    Default just blew a trye on the vs need advice on rolling gaurds and new tyres

    hey all
    today blew one of my tryes out while going round a bend i have 20s
    which scrub at time and the outside rear left had had enough so im now
    up for some new tyres im running proxies 4 atm wanting feedback on wht would
    be better and also benifits of rolling guards
    much appreciated cheers

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    Why not just run a narrower tyre? I assume your trying to run somthing like a 235/245's. Try 215's or 225's max.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

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    im pretty sure the ones im running are 225 or 235 because they do taper in a fair bit from the rims but then again they came on the car and the car does tuck the tyre so it sits quite low but i should consider not as wide tyres cheers

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    got an adjustable panhard rod?(assuming its live axle) thatll help a bit, rolling guards will stop the inner edge of the guard hitting the tyre. you dont need to flare the guard out, just fold the inner lip upwards.

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    well it blew the side wall of the tyre because of the scrubbing a pan hard rod eyy? yeah its live axle would u know how much and im fair sure ill just get the rear gaurds rolled just sick of scrubbing haha

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    $100-150, simple to bolt on, then you can adjust it til the wheels are similar distances from guard on both sides.

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    sounds fair i should just get it all done at once would you have any trye recomendations?

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    I generally run Faulkens or Neutons. Only cause they cost a bit less then other brands and still have a substantial side wall on them and good load ratings (on the applicable range variants). Jax tyres sell the neutons but im sure others do also, faulkens can be gotten anywhere. I found the neutons last the longest though.
    Depends what you want, if ur after a super quality tyre well you can spend $400+ on each tyre. If ur after somthing that just holds the road and is safe to run, choose wisely amoungst the cheaper brands. Stay away from soft wall low load rated tyres like "triangles" retailed at typewpoer outlets and stuff like bob jane allrounders ect...
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

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    well as above if said im runnin proxies 4 all round but i really dont get much grip yeah the rears are worn but really they should be better considering there 1100 bucks for a set i might just get two new tyres for now as the fronts are good but unsure if i should put the new ones on the rear as thats were im having my troubles

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    if ur buying cheap tyres chuck em on the back. I use nexxen n6000s on my 19s. think I payed 190 each fitted.

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    Yeah I think that's best I live in geelong does anyone best place to buy tyres in my area also if anyone new about rolling the rear guards would be appreciated

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    couple of ways of doing it, hammer is the easyist, dont beat the crap out of it thou, start at the lowest point by the bumper and work your way to the middle, then start at the other side and work your way in..

    another option is to use a pole, put it between the guard and tyre (again by the rear bumper) and drive forward while someone holds the pole.

    Or another option is one of those guard rolling machines that bolt to the hub, they are actually really cheap to purchase

    Or another option is to get new rims with a different offset
    VS V8 Manual ... Reppn it for NZ

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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwicon View Post

    another option is to use a pole, put it between the guard and tyre (again by the rear bumper) and drive forward while someone holds the pole.
    Bogan gaurd rolling 101
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

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    i might be giving the whole guard rolling a miss if found out the getting an adjustable panhard rod will most likely fix the left hand side rear scrubbing but again would still like confirmation that this has potential of fixing my problem cheers on the rolling tips

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    I am sure my old VS would rub on the right side when lowered with a load in the back.
    http://woteva.tk/

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    ive just scoped a few threads alot people claim its on the left hand side most likely due to spare and what not being on that side i wanna know how lowering your car can move your diff so its no longer centred

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    Its to do with how the panard bar is mounted as to why it pulls the diff off center and thats why the adjustable one will fix it.

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    and if thats the case ill be happy to throw my money at one if the problem goes away

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    Not knowing your car and what rims are on it I cant say 100% that it is the cause. as the rims might be the wrong offset or the tyres might be to wide there is a number of issues that cauld cause this tyre rub but its a good point to start with the panard bar as for getting it fitted like I seen in your other thread it a easy job to do yourself.

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    i could tackle it myself but then again im only a young chap 17 lol and got f all experience on cars ill suss a how to on it but if i could get it all done when im buying tyres id probably just get it done then

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    As above its to do with the panhard rod is why the diff moves. When you hit a speed bump for instance, the two rear wheels push up into the gaurds. But they dont travel straight up and down either. They go up and push to the left. Its to do with how they are connected to the car chasis. The panhard rod does the connecting to the chassis bit. Its attached to the undercarraige of the car on the drivers side, and then runs across and attachs to the axle on the passenger side. So as the axle lifts and gets closer to the chasis, the panhard rod tends to push the wheels to one side also. You'll have to stick ur head under the back of the var and look at it.

    So what happens at the factory they set the axle up so it sits all nice and centered(which centers the wheels inside the wheel arch) at stock ride height. As soon as you drop or raise the ride height, add bigger wheels with different offsets, it throws all this out. The only way to correct it is to put stock wheels back on or by an adjustable panhard rod so you can shift the diff to a new location thats gonna suit your new setup.

    ‪Adjustable Panhard Bar Installed - 01 Tahoe Spohn Performance‬‏ - YouTube skip to about 4.30 to ses the install. This whole setup looks alot different to a commo but you get the idea.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

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    thanks heaps man im gonna call around see where i can source a decent one cheers

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    cheers ill hit them up thanks

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