Engine idles fine but no power
Hi all,
Have a vs 3.8ltr and it will idle fine but has no power when the accelerator is pushed down,
The engine will continue when accelerator is pushed down to run but back fires what appears through the throttle body. I have checked all hoses from the manifold, throttle body area for leaks and found no problems, have replaced the fuel filter.
I tend to believe it is something small but I am lost and would appreciate some advise.
A Memcal a Day Keeps..
Ok just did this and got 1 flash followed by 2 flashes which I believe indicates code 12 (System fine)Originally Posted by The1
Ok just did the error code test and got 1 flash followed by 2 flashes which I believe is code 12 (system fine)
A Memcal a Day Keeps..
yes it will do that 3 times first, then display the error code afterwards, did it still give 12 after three times?
I just went back and re did the test and it did the 3 times first and then it does 2 flashes followed by 3 flashes
A Memcal a Day Keeps..
well 23 is air temp sensor, which lives in the airbox where the airfilter is
Is their a method to test the air temp sensor
Donating Member
Possibly, but for the minimal cost, just replace it, it's been logged for a reason.
If u want to check it, disconnect the battery for 5mins, to clear all codes, reconnect, then drive around for a day or so, then recheck codes!
Don't forget that there may be several codes logged, so it's good to let the lights flash a few cycles, u should know when its back to the start, as it eill repeat the sequence.
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Donating Member
VS fault codes
Just Commodores - For All Your Holden Commodore Needs
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm" Sir Winston Churchill.
My VS II Berlina Wagon
MY12 II SV6 Sportwagon
Real cars are steel cars.
Would an air temp sensor cause this lack of power problem?
I think not. It may be an old code (air box removed with ignition on?) or a 'ghost code'.
Clear codes and go for a drive and see if the code comes back.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
Gave up on VL's
I was thinking it could be your vacuum line to the fuel regulator or is it stuffed or the fuel pump or fuel injectors.
Real cars are steel cars.
Check the resistance of the ignition leads. Faulty leads (high resistance) will cause the spark at the plugs to break down under load.
IIRC it's about 3000 ohms per meter.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
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