Can i put 10-40W engine oil in my VS?

[asht12341234]

It is actually 15-40W castrol modern engine oil not 10-40W, either way is 15-40W any good for my V6?

[jesse_lankey]

Its recommended that you run 20 50, I've been running 15 40 for quite a while now in my vs and haven't had any problems

[m1lky]

I ran 10w-40 in my v6 vs with no problem. 15-40 will be fine too. 20-50 is quite thick. I'd only run that past 250k

[wortus]

Check the Castrol Net Lube web site.

[monkeys437]

I run 10W40 nulon synthetic in my VS. I plan on running a heavier weight if I start to get a few rattles or something but its still quiet and smooth as anything with 240k on it so I'll keep using that weight

[WogBoyz]

As above on my old vs v6 i used to run nulon 10w40 aswell had 130,000 and ran perfectly

[Brett_jjj]

People get on here and say that "my car runs good on this oil or that oil", but the fact is it will pretty much run the same with any oil, it wont really effect how the engine runs that much,(unless the car hasnt had a engine oil and filter service for a long time). Its how much protection the oil can give the engine, and how clean the engine internals are kept that is most important.The cleanliness comes down to the detergents that are added to the oils.
Also people say that the 20W-50 oil is too thick etc and to use a 20W-40 instead,but these oils are all exactly the same thickness when they are cold. Its the last number in the oils rating that shows how thick the oil will be when its at operating temp,and this is where the difference in thickness is between the 40 and 50 oils. A 20W-50 or 20W-60 rated oil is the same thickness as a 20w-40 oil when they are all cold,its only thicker once its up at operating temp,and the thicker the oil stays when hot,(to a point),the better protection it will offer under hot or heavy load conditions.
I use the full synthetic mobil 1 5W-50 in my VSV6.I used to use a semi synthetic oil (penrite HPR15 15W-60) which wasnt too bad either,Id recommend the penrite to anyone who usually buys oils that cost around the $30-$40 mark, as it gives better protection from cold startup,as its slightly thinner than the 20W oils,so it will flow better when cold,and this means that the oil will get up to pressure quicker than it would with a 20W oil.It also offers better protection as it stays slightly thicker then the 20W-50 oils at higher temps.I should also mention that he "W" in the oils rating stands for winter,or basically how thick the oil is when its cold.

[monkeys437]

People get on here and say that "my car runs good on this oil or that oil",

Thats because thats what the OP asked........

[Andrew426]

Thats because thats what the OP asked........

And he answered OPs question better than anyone else did.

TBH I dont think the weight and grade of oil really matters (within reason) in these old pushrod v6es, the $20 buck a bottle caltex 15w40 stuff is what I normally buy.

The oil in my vp at the moment was filled and drained from a scania 420hp 6 after somebody read the wrong oil off the service sheet. I poured it in my engine because it was free.

[Brett_jjj]

I only use quality oils in my V6 ecotec because of the way the engine gets treated,it gets driven bloody hard most of the time, its pretty much spent its whole life working hard/getting reved hard etc, so I make sure I keep up the maintainance on it. It gets reved up to the redline pretty much every day,the engine has around 180,000 km on it now since it was fully reconditioned at Redlands in brisbane. I always change the engine oil and filter every 5000 k's. I know a couple of blokes who dont really look after their cars as far as using quality oils, or keeping it serviced at regular intervals etc, but then they still expect the engine to be able to rev at 5000rpm all day long, expect it to last forever, and then they have a winge when they end up having problems or whatever,they just cant be told,or are too silly to take notice of some good advice when they get it..
Another thing, and I reckon it is the most important thing of all, is letting the car get fully up to its operating temp before reving it or working it hard. I always start the engine with no throttle so it revs as slow as possible whilst it is waiting the couple of seconds for the oil pressure to come up. Afterall, 90% of engine wear occurs at cold startup, this happens because theres no oil pressure for the first couple of seconds after the engine is first started, and this means that theres some slight metal on metal contact with the bearings etc for a second or two until the oil pressure comes up.
All in all, I reckon that if you dont drive your car in a spirited way, and just cruise it about slowly, then any old engine oil will usually do the job, but if you are like me, and like to wring your cars neck, but still want it to be reliable and last a decent time between engine rebuilds,then I reckon its a wise choice to use top shelf oils.

[vsv6dude]

You will blow up the engine its too thick. Just joking.

Check out the link below. Enter your vehicle and presto.

Mobil Australia - NetLube

[cunno]

yeah 10w/40 or 15w/40 will be your best bet mate. Shell or Castrol

[Krilnik]

Holden recommend 20W-50.

[edals]

People get on here and say that "my car runs good on this oil or that oil", but the fact is it will pretty much run the same with any oil, it wont really effect how the engine runs that much,(unless the car hasnt had a engine oil and filter service for a long time). Its how much protection the oil can give the engine, and how clean the engine internals are kept that is most important.The cleanliness comes down to the detergents that are added to the oils.
Also people say that the 20W-50 oil is too thick etc and to use a 20W-40 instead,but these oils are all exactly the same thickness when they are cold. Its the last number in the oils rating that shows how thick the oil will be when its at operating temp,and this is where the difference in thickness is between the 40 and 50 oils. A 20W-50 or 20W-60 rated oil is the same thickness as a 20w-40 oil when they are all cold,its only thicker once its up at operating temp,and the thicker the oil stays when hot,(to a point),the better protection it will offer under hot or heavy load conditions.
I use the full synthetic mobil 1 5W-50 in my VSV6.I used to use a semi synthetic oil (penrite HPR15 15W-60) which wasnt too bad either,Id recommend the penrite to anyone who usually buys oils that cost around the $30-$40 mark, as it gives better protection from cold startup,as its slightly thinner than the 20W oils,so it will flow better when cold,and this means that the oil will get up to pressure quicker than it would with a 20W oil.It also offers better protection as it stays slightly thicker then the 20W-50 oils at higher temps.I should also mention that he "W" in the oils rating stands for winter,or basically how thick the oil is when its cold.

YAY Someone understands I Run 15-60 Penrite and love it. And as mentioned offers better protection when both cold and hot Had some Guy at super crap try to sell me 10-40 cause he said it give better protection. Like how ? The 15-60 gives your widest range lol and being in a area where the temp is no less then 10, but the temp is like 50° in traffic, i want best protection on hot summer days. But 15 is rated to -25°

[The1]

quality is good, but consistant oil changes is just as important, seen many cars with 5000k oil changes but use cheapo oil many over 300,000+k and run fine. Obviously the internals wont be as clean and protected as you get what you pay for with oil.

[bpefi]

The following link will give you all the info that you could need - I use a 10w 40 synthetic oil - the first number gives you the rating when cold & the lower the number the lower the viscosity & the better the protection on a cold start - I have a Hilux with a 2.0 L engine & I used to run a 20w50 & I now run a 0w40 the difference in power was astounding..

- Bob is the Oil Guy

[The1]

spot on bpefi, in fact a good thing to do is drop the thermostat temp from 100c to 90c or even 80c in the case of the ecotec's, that will also bring the OP temp down of the oil then you can use thinner oils as it will remain thicker at less than 100c and still be in the manufactures specs. Thicker is better is really only of use in race engines where temps get really hot, otherwise all you are doing is slowing down your oil flow and end up with less heat conduction from components to oil and more wear, also it's much prefered the Cst be closer from cold to hot, one reason i like mobil1 15w50 125/18 Cst from 40/100c Alot of the 0w-40 oils for this reason would be good as cold start to full temp Cst difference is not great for eg 75/13 Cst. Also take for example some 20w 60 oils it can be 250cst cold and 23cst hot that's a huge variation no wonder people get rattles on startup! Please correct me if i am wrong.

[kingsvy]

blah blah blah i put black stuff in hole

[kingsvy]

just a joke i use a cheap 10-40w magnatec every 5000k

[VS_Pete_1]

[QUOTE=Brett_jjj;1971470]I always start the engine with no throttle so it revs as slow as possible whilst it is waiting the couple of seconds for the oil pressure to come up. Afterall, 90% of engine wear occurs at cold startup, this happens because theres no oil pressure for the first couple of seconds after the engine is first started, and this means that theres some slight metal on metal contact with the bearings etc for a second or two until the oil pressure comes up.
QUOTE]

I had a VH with sports dash so it had a oil pressure gauge.
When I started the car (cold) you could hear tappet noise and it would go away when the oil pressure went up (as stated ).
So what I tried was to crank motor but didn`t let is start.
Then I start the motor instant oil pressure, gauge needle went up straight away and no tappet noise.
I do this with all my cars now.
You pressurize the bearings and it works.
I know what I saw and heard.

[VYMAD]

I just use good old Castrol Magnatec 10W40 every 7,000 and of course new filter each time.
But then I don't give my VY a "hard time" all that often either......only on occasions....