I noticed my sump gasket leaking fairly bad the other day so I decided to replace it with a genuine rubber 1 piece gasket from Holden, anyone that has done one knows that they are a pain to do.
I opted to remove the engine and throw it on a stand and rotate it so I could get a good seal with the gasket ect.
Anyways, after I dropped the engine back and got it going again its leaking still.(Grrrrrr)
But not from the same spot, its on the other side.
I know its not the rear main so the only decent excuse I can think of as to why its leaking still is that I have tightened the sump bolts too much, but in saying that I thought I was fairly careful not to over tighten them and cause the rubber gasket to squeeze out.
I got under it and gave them all an extra 1/4 turn and still its leaking...It has slowed it down but has not stopped it.
Rather then pull the engine out or drop the K Frame, can I loosen all the bolts off the sump and cause it to reset back into its normal shape again and try it again?
I'm not looking forward to pulling the engine out again, so if there's a way to go about sorting this out and anyone could help with the issue Id be forever in debt to you.
Cheers.......
I did not think that you could overtighten the sump bolts as the sump has dimples preventing to much distortion of the gasket.
muttley383
did you use a torque wrench ? add an extra selant to the rubber gasket silastic or the like ?
So is mine
Notoriously bitchy they are. Just have to try again my friend
I like VS Caprices so much, I bought 2... and a WH Grange!
Well so I got back under it this morning and backed off most of the bolts, and the bolt just below where its leaking actually sheared off!!
When I was doing the up a 1/4 turn yesterday I thought it had chewed out the thread on this particular bolt so I was just going to replace it this morning but like I said it just snapped off....
Well no points for guessing why it started leaking, and for now until I drill it out I have just squeezed a heap of gasket maker in it and its stopped the leak....for now...![]()
We always advise people to seal the pans with a bead of sealant around the whole rail, looping the holes as you go. Never had a leaking engine ever **touchwood**
Ben
There is no such thing as stupid questions, Only stupid people.
Yeah I did place a bead around both the block and the sump before marrying the two up, but I was a bit hesitant with how much I put on because my sump pick up was clogged with dried up gasket maker that had fallen in....
Lesson learnt I guess![]()
Well the trick to sealing them is only slightly tighten the bolts at first, so the sealant is hardly oozing, then let it set. Once the sealant is set then tighten the bolts and I shouldn't leak at all.
Another key is to have the surfaces super clean and wiped with a solvent before starting.
Ben
There is no such thing as stupid questions, Only stupid people.
you also have to make sure you throughly clean both of the mating surfaces, use a scraper to remove all remaining gasket material, if you have a dremel and soft wire brush attachment use this as it will be much quicker.
I work with diesel generators that are running 24/7 and i have had to take numerous plates and covers off to re-seal them but by taking the extra 30 mins in prepping the surface and also using the gasket sealer as mentioned above i have not had one leak in over 3 years