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Thread: Vs Commodore, WTF?!?!!???

  1. #1
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    Default Vs Commodore, WTF?!?!!???

    Ok so i was at the gfs house earlier tonight, went there in the vs commodore no problems whatsoever.. Until i went to leave.. I got in, tried to start it, and it sounded like the starter motor was jammed. Ignition came on, lights were working, stereo, everything. So i was there for about an hour trying to fix it.. Gave the starter a bit of a tap but it didn't work, i was so frustrated with it, I've had it almost 6 months and its never let me down before.. I had to be home, which was about 70km from where i was, so i ended up calling the Nrma see if they could do something. Anyways the guy got there and he asks me to try start 'er up and see whats goin on and there she goes, starts first time didn't miss a freakn beat. The guy looks at me like *Wtf* .. Then he pretends to do something and tightens me battery terminals and leaves. But yeah it was fine all the way home, stopped for fuel and she still fires up first go. Well i love spending $120 for a guy to watch me start my commodore. HELLZ YEAH!! I don't know, i think it just decided it wanted to be an a hole for a night. Or does it have a mind of its own? Has anything like this happened to anyone else??!?

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    VS Berlina

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    I've had some problems with my Berlina. On and off, its not all the time, but the key just wont make anything happen.. or it rotates the motor like 3 times then stops.
    Had some discussions on the forum about it, and narrowed it down to either the shifter switch or the key itself.

    Moving the shifter back and forward sometimes worked. Removing the key and sticking it back in sometimes worked. It only ever happens when the engine is cold, its never happened when warm.

    Someone suggested the key itself was dodgy, so I tried my spare key which has never been used, and the problem went away. Problem solved. But wait.. theres more. That was a couple months ago, had no further problem, till yesterday. Now its doing it again. Now I am going to replace the switch on the shifter that tells the car what gear its in. Hoping thats it, I am running out of options ...

  3. #3
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    Well thats good haha i was beggining to think i was the only one. Hmm i need a spare key anyway i'll try that out (Y)

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    If it does it next time, just jump in the car put the hand brake down, put ur foot on the brake and move the gear selector all the way down to 1 and back up to P. release the brake and try start it. See how that goes.

  6. #6
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    Eh well, i got quoted $100 for a key which is alot for a damn key..

    Cheers ZUUOOKI, it'll save me wasting money on the chatty Nrma aha.

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    From the sounds of it im going to guess the following:
    Lose/bad connection on the battery terminals.
    Neutral safety switch.
    Sticky starter motor solenoid.
    The key forb isnt getting a good connection from the metal strip on the ignition.

    So check connection on key forb.
    If it does it again, push the gear up or down whilst turning the ignition and if it works, safety switch.
    If not, get something heavy and tap the starter motor. If it starts, your starter motor.
    If not, wiggle your battery terminals. If it starts its a bad connection.

    None of that works, no idea.

  8. #8
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    $100? never had to get one done, but I actually thought you would be looking at more than double that, so its pretty cheap.

    I worked at a Toyota dealers, people used to get keys cut by Mr Minute or something then find that although the key opened the door, it didnt turn off the alarm or start the car then they would come to us and the service department charged them something like $270 to program the key...

  9. #9
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    Ohh, haha i actually went to my local mister minit an he said he'd do it for $100 .. Maybe just to cut it.. Dunno

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    Quote Originally Posted by seq4x4 View Post
    From the sounds of it im going to guess the following:
    Lose/bad connection on the battery terminals.
    Neutral safety switch.
    Sticky starter motor solenoid.
    The key forb isnt getting a good connection from the metal strip on the ignition.

    So check connection on key forb.
    If it does it again, push the gear up or down whilst turning the ignition and if it works, safety switch.
    If not, get something heavy and tap the starter motor. If it starts, your starter motor.
    If not, wiggle your battery terminals. If it starts its a bad connection.

    None of that works, no idea.
    In my case, its definitely not the starter, battery or terminals. Sometimes it will turn over 3 times then just stop. Moving the gear lever can help, sometimes. Removing and replacing the key can do it, sometimes. Holding the key on and moving the shifter up and down sometimes works too. Or I can get pissed off at it, stick the keys in my pocket, go have a smoke, come back and stick the key in and drive it away. Its not consistent at all.

    The only thing thats consistent, and the one that confuses me the most, is that it ONLY does it when cold. The only thing I can think of that could be affected by heat is the starter, but thats been replaced with a new one and no changes happened.

    My best guess at the moment is that the safety switch is dodgy, or the actual key barrel may be to blame. I'm trying the switch next.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spudz View Post
    Ohh, haha i actually went to my local mister minit an he said he'd do it for $100 .. Maybe just to cut it.. Dunno
    Even the key itself aint cheap, yep. Dunno if its quite that much though. Maybe he can program them, I dont know. I'd ask before I got him to do it ...

    I'm making a big assumption here too though.. because I have never had to have it done at all let alone on my VS.. do they even need programming? My feeling is yes, but I cant be sure. Maybe its only the newer ones that need programming, someone will be able to tell us.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by DAKSTER View Post
    Even the key itself aint cheap, yep. Dunno if its quite that much though. Maybe he can program them, I dont know. I'd ask before I got him to do it though.

    I'm making a big assumption here too though.. because I have never had to have it done at all let alone on my VS.. do they even need programming? MY feeling is yes, but I cant be sure. Maybe its only the newer ones that need programming, someone will be able to tell us.
    Yeah ima ask him, see what he thinks. I aint payin that much for a key to realise when i go to try it, it only opens doors or something haha

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    WL Statesman....L67 VS Berlina

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    nah the keys deffinetly work..

    i have bought one for my vr and my wl statesman and they both work fine..you have to program them yourself tho
    i think you unlock the door with the key and then let it sit in the ignition and drive around with it in..and after a short while
    you can press the unlock button..

    i got mine from The Key Man for $80

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    Quote Originally Posted by DAKSTER View Post
    In my case, its definitely not the starter, battery or terminals. Sometimes it will turn over 3 times then just stop. Moving the gear lever can help, sometimes. Removing and replacing the key can do it, sometimes. Holding the key on and moving the shifter up and down sometimes works too. Or I can get pissed off at it, stick the keys in my pocket, go have a smoke, come back and stick the key in and drive it away. Its not consistent at all.

    The only thing thats consistent, and the one that confuses me the most, is that it ONLY does it when cold. The only thing I can think of that could be affected by heat is the starter, but thats been replaced with a new one and no changes happened.

    My best guess at the moment is that the safety switch is dodgy, or the actual key barrel may be to blame. I'm trying the switch next.
    Dakster

    I've found that changes in temperature will be enough to upset a dodgy electrical connection just about anywhere in the car. The metal components of switches are easily affected and if they don't have a good clean connection, cooler temperatures cause the metal to contract, breaking the already poor contact.

    To the OP.

    Start with the simplest things. That metal ring around the key-hole is just connected with a simple male/female plug. Check to see if the connection there is clean and solid. The transmission cut-out switch is a high-wear item and the contacts can become worn to the point where they don't make a good contact. That would be a reasonably simple and cheap part to replace and would be my second choice. Also check the condition of the wiring connections on the switch and starter solenoid. Does your car have a starter relay? If so, try replacing it with a similar relay from another circuit. The thing is to eliminate as much as possible before outlaying your cash.

  16. #16
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    i have the same problem every now and then and it works if you put it in neutral then try and start it

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by CJ - 1995 View Post
    i have the same problem every now and then and it works if you put it in neutral then try and start it
    I tried that last night didn't work, sadface

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    If you were an NRMA member the call out would have been free

    I agree on the shifter issue as mine sometimes needs a tap forward to start.

    As for the key buy one off ebay for $50 - $60 and take it to a locksmith who will program it for around $25. You then have to unlock the car with your old key then start the car with the newly programmed one. Some people say this way of doing it is bullshit but it's what I did and it worked and is definately cheaper than getting holden to do it.
    95 VS Berlina
    http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ml#post1891856

    I need some statesman/ calais woodgrain for drivers side panel!!

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    I had a similar problem. Drove about 2k from work, stopped, done some stuff, come back and try to start it but no go.
    Played around for an hour and got it to start.
    Turned out that the negetive wire on the clamp was falling apart and just about broken off.
    Easy fix, new connection onto the wire and new clamp.
    http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...e-acclaim.html
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    GM: Has millions of dollars and highly trained engineers.

    Some guy in his backyard: Has a hole saw.

    Discuss.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wombles View Post
    I had a similar problem. Drove about 2k from work, stopped, done some stuff, come back and try to start it but no go.
    Played around for an hour and got it to start.
    Turned out that the negetive wire on the clamp was falling apart and just about broken off.
    Easy fix, new connection onto the wire and new clamp.
    Mm yeah tbh my pos wire looks a bit tacky at the battery.. So turns out it could be a number of things, guess thats always how it is with bloody cars

  22. #22
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    The electrical side of things you mean.. In a way its easy. But then really hard.
    http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...e-acclaim.html
    My Commy
    Quote Originally Posted by danja View Post
    GM: Has millions of dollars and highly trained engineers.

    Some guy in his backyard: Has a hole saw.

    Discuss.

  23. #23
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    i had the exact samr problem your having and it turned out to be the negative wire on the connecter not completly wedge on properly . i just pulled the wire completly out and put it back in the terminal conecter and krimped it again tighter . . i think it something to with earthing any way mate

  24. #24
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    Happened again today.. Went to start 'er and nothing. Got pissed off with it and walked away for 10-15 minutes, came back and started first go -.-

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    i agree with vs2dsire

    i would be having a good look at the battery terminals, and where the negative is bolted. next time it happens give the battery terminals a good wiggle, or maybe get some wd40 in there and try again.

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