Basically have had problems with the Car Misfiring and Acceleration being limited
Replaced DFI and Coils with no change, I will do the Leads tomorrow.
However I did an Error Check and got 23 and 32 both related to the Mass Air Flow meter I think.
Would this cause the problems I have been having with the backfiring, Acceleration Issues and Misfires?
Will replacing the MAF remove both codes 23 and 32?
Thanks
One would assume it would fix both problems.
Code 23 - Mass Air Temp Sensor (MAT) high voltage
Code 32 - Manifold Air Flow Sensor
I think the MAT sensor is on the rear of the manifold, no idea what it looks like. I don't even know what it does.
Could it also explain why it has been running rich and using a lot of fuel?
Hey mate, check my sig to see causes and testing procedures.
VR and VS error codes:
VS V8 DTC/Error codes comprehensive list.
VS V6 DTC/Error codes comprehensive list.
F$cked o2 sensor makes it chew fuel. It's not always the sensor often it can be the loom etc.
MUNCH MUNCH LS1 4 LUNCH
if a code sets again, after you clear it.
9/10 times the thing that sets the code is F****D
BUT with those codes also check that there is no MAJOR INTAKE LEAKS....
intake leaks would be the 1/10 for those codes![]()
Does anyone have a picture to show exactly where the MAT sensor is, as I am unsure of it's location.
Thanks
VR and VS error codes:
VS V8 DTC/Error codes comprehensive list.
VS V6 DTC/Error codes comprehensive list.
If its a VS with an ecotec V6 engine, then it doesnt have a MAT (Manifold Air Temperature) sensor in the inlet manifold like the older V6 did. The VS uses the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor located in the airbox instead. Also, seeing that the IAT and MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor are both giving the error codes, and are both on the same part of the wiring loom thats on the passenger side of the engine bay ,I reckon its probably worth checking this part of the wiring loom for damage etc.
It is a Ecotec
so I need to replace the sensor that is on the Air Box and the Air Flow Meter ?
I reset the Ecu today and went for a drive and came back with 23 and 32.
Fiirst up, Id thoroughly check the wiring from the ECU connectors right through to both the sensors using a multimeter or test light, just to make sure the wires arent broken anywhere.Then look at repalcing the sensors.
According to the VS wiring diagrams, For the MAF theres 3 wires, ones a Pink/blue trace, and this goes to fuse number 12, a 10 amp fuse. The next wire is a Brown/white trace, and this goes from the MAF to the ECU connector terminal number D1,( the middle pink ECU plug). The last wire from the MAF, a Black/ white trace, goes to earth.
For the IAT, theres 2 wires, ones a solid Brown wire, and it goes from the IAT to ECU connector terminal number B4, (The outer Pink ECU plug ).The other wire is a solid Black wire, it goes from the IAT to ECU connector terminal number F16, (the blue ECU plug). This wire also connects to the auto transmission temperature sensor.
as long as you dont have rats eating your harness or fault only started after some work was done
then likely its going to be the sensors OR what they measure entering the engine AFTER the MAF and therefore changin the mixture which is picked up by the 02 sensors then the code is logged as the ecm/pcm assumes you have no intake leaks after the sensor... hence i said check for vacum leaks....first......
the harness is short those sensors share an earth with other engine components, so the only harness to check is sensor to thick part of loom on chassis rail (under intake pipes) to the firewall... but like i said unlikely unless you have disturbed the harness in some way...
I checked for leaks and found nothing, used the test lamp on the wires both sensor and ecu end. They all have power, so I guess it means they need replacement.
I hope you weren't using a normal test lamp on any thing that is connected to the ECU! The current draw is waaaaay too high and will tell you virtually nothing.
Use a digital multimeter instead.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
strange thing is though normally the afm doesnt stuff up unless someone has tried to clean it with anything other than afm spray or its been drenched with water or gernie when they die they run like they are unplugged (try it and you will see)
let us know how you go man
worst case scenario (harness not damaged of course) the ecu isnt reading the voltages correctly (ref voltage of 5 vt's incorrect) and ecu has died... worst scenario i can imagine...
Going to try the AFM and IAT sensors from a mates car over the weekend reset ECU and see if they pop back up, if not I will then go and buy them. If they show back up I will just get an auto electrician to check it out. If it turns out to be the ECU hopefully the wreckers have some spare.