Hey guys
I just bought a 96 vs calais, its in good nik with 195xxx kms
the issue i have is when i first start it in the morning and try and take off it feels like its trying to take off in 4th gear it revs and moves like a snail.
after a while or turning it off and back on a couple of times it goes ok.... but slips a bit and isnt the smoothest.
So is it new gear box time or is this a common problem????
Cheers
does it drive normally after a few minutes? (only does this on start up)... if so, drop the transmission pan and make sure your filter is still clipped in... if the filter has fallen out, the transmission pump sucks air when you first start the car. (The filter is sitting on the bottom of the pan) and after a few minutes the filter gets sucked up into place and the transmission works like normal.
Note: the filter in the 4l60e transmission can be described like a straw... without it, you get no fluid sucking up into the pump.
God I hope it's this easy to fix, I'll let you know
Try a fault code test as it sounds like the transmission is in Limp Home Mode Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised)
Also check the colour of you trans fluid - it should be red - not brown or burnt smelling.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
ok so i checked the error codes and got.
Code 32 - Manifold Air Flow Sensor
Code 35 - Idle Speed error
Code 66 - 3 - 2 Shift Control Solenoid Circuit Fault - Auto Transmission Only
what do these mean???
The code 66 is the one of interest - means that the 2-3 solenoid is either fully buggered or intermittently failing and causing the problem you describe which is LHM (limp home mode). You can fix it yourself if you feel confident or get a trans place to do it for you....prob cost about $2-300. So that may mean the trans is not totally gone ($2000+).
So I'd go to a trans repair place and tell them it went into LHM and you've got a code 66....they will know what you're talking about and quote you a price....it's really a very easy fix for them as they put it on the hoist and have all the tools and tricks of the trade. Good Luck.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
Well today went to a gearbox specialist and the news isn't good, apparently the internals of the box is gone
Anyway what he suggests is a reco VT box installed and he quoted $1600 which includes torque converter
reco
What do you guys reckon???
Shame you dont live closer. I have a perfect VT box here. But the question is, why did they say VT box when you have a VS?
VR and VS error codes:
VS V8 DTC/Error codes comprehensive list.
VS V6 DTC/Error codes comprehensive list.
FWIW the job can be done at home with a jack and stands and basic socket set.
Oil and A=B solenoid, two small zip ties is all you need. buy a service kit with gasket and filter if you want to go all out and spend some money.
Drop the pan from rear to front as you catch the oil, remove the filter, unplug and change the shift solenoids at the rear of the box, put a small zip tie on each wire connector to hold it in place if you broke the clip removing it, reinstall filter and pan and refill with tranny fluid. Ive done it myself at home.
it's really not that hard as previously said, and while you're doing it you can give the trans a service which may help the slipping.
Double check what trans is fitted to your car 5Hdd, 6HDD etc you will need to know this make sure you get the right part as there are slight variances between models
If you're unsure how to do this have a look at page 9 Transmission identification guide http://www.acdelco.com.au/PDFs/Catal...nsmissions.pdf
you can do it in the car easily, make sure you have a drain pan that is bigger than the oil pan on the trans and will hold 5-6 liters.
It only requires disconnecting the battery, removing the pan (loosen the bolts evenly, remove all the rear bolts, loosen both side and slowly let the rear of the pan come down, let it drain, once stopped support the pan and remove all other bolts holding it, lower gently and don't tip it as it'll still be full of oil)
remove filter, unplugging solenoid connection, remove retaining clip, slide out.. reverse procedure to install, refill, the ecu/pcm will have reset while it was dc'd from the batery.
there's plenty of vids on youtube regarding work you can do to a 4l60e, doesn't matter if the vid shows a slightly different looking trans to what you have the internals of them are all pretty much the same if you are apprehensive about tackling it.
less than $60 for the solenoid, contact him and double check the right one for the VS as it says in the listing for 94/95 Vr 3-2 solenoid if you have a 5HDD trans fitted then it may be ok. I've dealt with him a few times and he's pretty good.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TCC-PWM-3...item5190b6daee
about $60 for a trans filter kit and fresh oil
from memory you can get a solenoid rebuild kit but i forget who made it, possibly transgo or transtec (us companies).
i guess you'd spend somewhere between $100-$150ish in total and if that fixes the problem then it beats forking out 1.5-2K for a new box.
(if you want to work on/fully rebuild a trans the atsg workshop manual is good and tells you everything and cost $40-50 on ebay but isn't really needed as all the info for what you want to do is out there on the net available)
Last edited by Jxw; 05-11-2011 at 04:42 PM.
Yeh the 1600 is because what he is going to to is take theI internals from the vt box and put it in my vs case.
And my gearbox is completly screwed now it doesn't change out of 1st gear
And also I reckon the vt box will be a bit stronger for the charger setup I have to go in![]()
doesn't mean it's screwed, what it could mean is that cause 1 component has failed and thrown an error code the ecu/pcm has locked into limp home mode and will not allow it to change properly, protecting it from further damage.
Does your speedo move when your driving now it's stuck in 1st only? If no then it's most likely the speedo output in the extension housing (VSS)
if the computer thinks the car is doing 0 it won't consider changing up to any higher gears
alternatively here's some common issues with the trans and what causes it http://www.twincharlotte.com/transmi...r-Charlotte-NC
there's only a few issues that would require a full rebuild and so far you have not mentioned any of these.
problem 23 sounds like what you had
problem 5 if you have no speedo sounds like what you have now, VSS fault can cause both these
if so check connections to the output sensor in the extension housing for firm fit, clean and no corrosion, if it looks good i'd look into replacing the output sensor, resetting the pcm and taking it for a spin.
not much difference between the vt and vs box, different cases not much stronger if any, 4 = 4 speed L = longitudinally mounted, 60 = power handling rating of the trans, E= electronic
4l65e or 4l70e would be a stronger box
for 1600 i'd expect a trans builder to be replacing the internals with new components not just mix and match used parts from another trans
I know if i bought all the components myself new and did all the labor it'll cost me about 600-800 and that would be a trans that would handle a decent v8
basic rebuild with stock internals closer to the $550-600 mark.
anyone else out there rebuilt one and what did it cost for you?
Last edited by Jxw; 05-11-2011 at 06:29 PM.
and regarding the trans error code you got earlier, keep an eye on it and check the error codes once a week and if it comes back replace the 3-2 solenoid.
if it's only done 195,xxx km's then it should still be in good nick unless it's had a hard life and had it's guts thrashed out of it.
yeah 1600 should buy a new rebuilt box, not second hand stuff.
Ok let get everything straight
The 1600 is for a rebuilt VT box fitted to my VS and that also includes a new Stall converter with 12 months warranty.
It that worth it??
As I said before $15 part and about half hour labour, can't see this repair costing over $300 but yeah if a new box with new bearings and new bands, new seals etc etc is what you want then $1600 is ok.