Couple of A/C issues (VS)
Hi,
Couple of things going on with the A/C or Fan..
Air comes out pretty strong (now that I've fixed resistor block, thanks forum), but when I am going up hills it kicks up an extra notch and comes out even stronger. Car back on the flat and it goes down again. Having a flick through here I'll take a wild guess it's a vacuum problem but would appreciate some clues from someone who knows A/C.
Other thing is it's just generally slow for the heater to come on. If I start the car cold on a hot day the cool air comes out instantly, but hot air takes a long time to kick in. Is this expected with a cold car? I guess there's no heat until the engine warms up..but I started out working on motorcycles so A/C is my weak point
Never had this regassed in 6 years by the way.
cheers
Donating Member w/ Boost
First problem will be vacuum for sure. you'll find the air won't actually be coming out faster, but will switch to window, and it sounds louder (generally).
It's usually caused by a leaky selector switch, or a broken actuator valve.
The heaters do take a long time to heat up, been that the engine is a big lump of cast iron, it takes awhile.
If the temp gauge is up, and there is still no heat, good chance you've got a blocked heater core.
If the A/C is still cold when turned on (anywhere from 4-8°C) then you really won't get much out of an A/C service.
Alright thanks, will go through the vacuum checks and see how we go.
p.s. another thread mentions rough idle as a symptom of vacuum problems so I think this is definitely it.
Last edited by yrebrac; 20-11-2011 at 10:29 AM.
Hot air will also take a long time to come on if you have a faulty thermostat that is stuck open.
is this the engine thermostat at top of engine block?
Last edited by yrebrac; 01-12-2011 at 07:36 PM.
By the way, yet to trace this but I noticed that there is a loud sucking noise when I turn the air routing dial to any position. Would this indicate the leak being in the console?
cheers
Ok I traced everything and found the hose on the manifold was a bit loose, so snipped and reattached. That doesn't explain the noise from behind the vent selector though. Those hoses look fine. Anyone know what this noise is or if it is sign of a problem?
cheers
Donating Member
The noise from behind the selector may just be from the hose being off or split, however they do break internally and suck air and then need replacing. See the How-to on installing a radio for removal of the unit. You might be able to get a mirror up there to have a look. Good Luck.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
Thanks for the tip. Yeh I think it may be internal, the hoses look fine and the noise is coming from the area of the switch. I've posted a video here: VS Commodore - Vent Selector Noise - YouTube
Donating Member
Nope, that is performing exactly how my VS vent selector switch does. If you leave the switch part way between the options you can get it to release all the air and then starting the car will re-do the vacumme.Originally Posted by yrebrac
If the fan speed feels like it is getting faster then it sound like more voltage is getting to the fans. My Mazda 6 does this when AC is on.
When you say faster, how fast is the air coming out?
You won't like me when I'm angry. Because I always back up my rage with facts and documented sources. - The Credible Hulk
If that noise is normal then good news, I may have fixed the problem by getting a better seal at the manifold.
I'll take it for a spin this afternoon once I get that damn console back on and see what the fan and vents are doing now..
*cross fingers*
Donating Member
Mine is totally silent as I turn it - when I first pulled the dash I broke the back of the switch and repaired it in a manner that the back is tightly clamped to the front so maybe that's why it is totally quiet. With the engine off it will still switch to 3 different positions on residual vacuum.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
Yeah, still have a vacuum leak under acceleration so makes sense it's the switch. Another post says they do fail, so I'll go ahead and rip it out.
The problem is vacuum control, u pull out the control unit and on the back u will see all the vaccum line, that bit the vaccum lines go onto replace that, part number is sp0130, should be able to get at burson or repco..
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