L67 down on power? And suspension question

[scvs6]

Hey guys,

I just got my VS back from getting the transmission repaired. Appartantly they removed a shift kit? To be honest, I didn't even know it had one haha.

When I went to pick the car up, the guy that worked on it said straight away "is the supercharger working properly?" As far as I know it is....

Then he told me that he has a VR Commodore V6 and that my VS felt gutless for a L67, and that his VR would kill my VS in a race.

Then he said a few other things like my suspension is way too hard and the exhaust is loud and illegal.

Hmmm, I take it in to get the transmission repaired and end up getting told what my car needs for a roadworthy? ok then.


How can I tell if my VS L67 is putting out the power that its supposed to (without paying $1000 to put it on a dyno). If I take it to a Holden Dealer, can they hook it up to a computer and tell like that or not? By the boost gauge, 6 PSI shows when I thrash it around a bit, so thats normal.

Also, is there anyway at all that you can lower a VS without it being too hard while driving. Like will coilovers make a difference? I'm probably going to leave the suspension for now because I can't afford to change it but if anyone has any suggestions, that would be nice.

Cheers,
Ben

[someguy360]

Don't worry about it mate....mechanic is probably talking shit.

[sly vr]

My vr is that Lowe it so rough it ant funny but it looks good don't worry about it like he said that guy just taking shit mine is that loud

[scvs6]

Don't worry about it mate....mechanic is probably talking shit.

Yeah your probably right. Its just not the kind of thing I want to hear right after I finish an engine conversion, because he made me feel like I done it for nothing.

He also said "You should have put a V8 in, it would have been cheaper". How is putting a V8 in cheaper? Theres more work that needs to be done and thats why I went with the L67, less work and it worked out that it was going to cost less, and I could still make some good power.

I was seriously thinking about going back and saying how does he know that my car is gutless, has he been thrashing it around...

I don't respect people like that, talking down my car for no reason, just do the job and move on, don't keep going on about it after. But I guess theres going to be people like that out there.

[scvs6]

My vr is that Lowe it so rough it ant funny but it looks good don't worry about it like he said that guy just taking shit mine is that loud

He probably thought I was a hoon and trying to tell me off for it. Or he was jealous that he doesn't have a L67 in this vr.

[mischa]

$1000 for a dyno! Don't know where you go but last one I got was $50. Proberly worth it if you want a power figure.

[scvs6]

$1000 for a dyno! Don't know where you go but last one I got was $50. Proberly worth it if you want a power figure.

I have gotten quotes from different places around Melbourne and the price range is $800 to $1000+

I know a place in Ballarat just started advertising that they have a dyno and a full workshop, might give them a ring and ask how much...

[FstStig]

I have gotten quotes from different places around Melbourne and the price range is $800 to $1000+

I know a place in Ballarat just started advertising that they have a dyno and a full workshop, might give them a ring and ask how much...

That would most likely be for a Dyno Tune, not just a standard Dyno run.

[scvs6]

That would most likely be for a Dyno Tune, not just a standard Dyno run.

Oh ok, that makes sense I think ill just do a dyno run for now and see how much power its putting out and then after the mods are done ill take it for a dyno tune.

[GTS69]

yeah a dyno run will help you see where your at and let you know if there is something wrong ie down on power but in stock form there not that quick and because there power is progresive and smooth other cars can some times feel faster if its stock some rockers a 10 psi pulley and extractors and zorsts will make it feel like a different car the mechanice is just one track minded and thinks everything should be done the way he would do it forget about him and for what its worth i wouldnt take the car back there.

o and fyi its not just a simple i removed a shift kit there made up of various parts and springs i doubt a adverage mechanice would notice the difference to stock parts and shift kit items when it comes to the springs and the likes unless there real good with autos

[Decicrate]

Hey guys,

I just got my VS back from getting the transmission repaired. Appartantly they removed a shift kit? To be honest, I didn't even know it had one haha.

When I went to pick the car up, the guy that worked on it said straight away "is the supercharger working properly?" As far as I know it is....

Then he told me that he has a VR Commodore V6 and that my VS felt gutless for a L67, and that his VR would kill my VS in a race.

Then he said a few other things like my suspension is way too hard and the exhaust is loud and illegal.

Hmmm, I take it in to get the transmission repaired and end up getting told what my car needs for a roadworthy? ok then.


How can I tell if my VS L67 is putting out the power that its supposed to (without paying $1000 to put it on a dyno). If I take it to a Holden Dealer, can they hook it up to a computer and tell like that or not? By the boost gauge, 6 PSI shows when I thrash it around a bit, so thats normal.

Also, is there anyway at all that you can lower a VS without it being too hard while driving. Like will coilovers make a difference? I'm probably going to leave the suspension for now because I can't afford to change it but if anyone has any suggestions, that would be nice.

Cheers,
Ben

I am glad the mechanic had fun "testing" your car for you.

A couple of quick things to look for if it is down on power.

1. Boost Bypass solenoid. This baby could be bleeding off some of your boost. A lot of people bypass the bypass, so under load the boost won't be bypassed.
You are seeing 6 PSI, is this with a stock pulley?

2. Belt slip. If the belt is getting old or the tensioner is getting a little weak you may get a bit of belt slip.

3. Engine mounts. L67's eat these things like they are going out of fashion. When they wear, under load they can rub the K Frame, which tends to set the knock sensor off and the ECU pulls timing.

4. Fuel. BP 98 Enough said.

5. Fuel delivery. Check fuel filter, pressures ect.



From there go to a Dyno and get them to do a power run for you. Will cost anywhere from $50.00 to $250.00 ring around.


Could also look at it this way, mechanic could of been "baiting" you to see if he could generate any more work for himself.

[scvs6]

yeah a dyno run will help you see where your at and let you know if there is something wrong ie down on power but in stock form there not that quick and because there power is progresive and smooth other cars can some times feel faster if its stock some rockers a 10 psi pulley and extractors and zorsts will make it feel like a different car the mechanice is just one track minded and thinks everything should be done the way he would do it forget about him and for what its worth i wouldnt take the car back there.

o and fyi its not just a simple i removed a shift kit there made up of various parts and springs i doubt a adverage mechanice would notice the difference to stock parts and shift kit items when it comes to the springs and the likes unless there real good with autos

Yeah I already have extractors and high flow cats and the rest of the exhaust changed, I plan on doing more work to it.

I thought it wasn't as simple as removing a shift kit, that's why I was confused.

[scvs6]

I am glad the mechanic had fun "testing" your car for you.

A couple of quick things to look for if it is down on power.

1. Boost Bypass solenoid. This baby could be bleeding off some of your boost. A lot of people bypass the bypass, so under load the boost won't be bypassed.
You are seeing 6 PSI, is this with a stock pulley?

2. Belt slip. If the belt is getting old or the tensioner is getting a little weak you may get a bit of belt slip.

3. Engine mounts. L67's eat these things like they are going out of fashion. When they wear, under load they can rub the K Frame, which tends to set the knock sensor off and the ECU pulls timing.

4. Fuel. BP 98 Enough said.

5. Fuel delivery. Check fuel filter, pressures ect.



From there go to a Dyno and get them to do a power run for you. Will cost anywhere from $50.00 to $250.00 ring around.


Could also look at it this way, mechanic could of been "baiting" you to see if he could generate any more work for himself.

The engine has been fully rebuilt and everything is brand new, new belts, pulleys, engine mounts, fuel filter, I wanted everything done right the first time. And yes it still has the stock supercharger pulley, that's why 6 PSI.

I have been filling up with shell v power but I'm going to start using bp ultimate.