Removing the Y-pipe from stock headers on a VS

[James39]

The problem I have is that I cannot get a socket on the two bolts that hold onto the drivers side headers. I have no problem with the passanger side.
I do not want to snap them as I may need to reuse them at a later time.

Can anyone give me an idea on how to the remove the bolts on the drivers side?

[hako]

We did this job yesterday....some people drop the steering rack just a little to gain better access but we used a narrow flexible 1/2" drive adaptor universal coupling with a 13mm socket....had this on the end of a 300mm extension and guided the socket onto the nut with fingers then it just needed a light touch to loosen. Re installing is a bugger too - we put the nuts on from on top and then tightened from below. Fortunately the threads and nuts are usually in good condition.
It would be better with a 3/8 drive setup.

[James39]

Thanks Hako. I have to drop the rack anyway so I might as well go that way.

[James39]

I am still running into problems with this. So far I have removed the y-pipe from the headers

What is the best way to remove the headers from the head on the motor?
I am swapping the stock headers with pacemakers
Being a short ass does not seem to help much lol as I have to climb inside the engine bay to get to bolts. So far I have managed to get the passenger side done but have trouble getting the bolts removed on the driver’s side it seems to have less room with the ABS in there....

Also one of the bolts snapped on the passenger side the one closest to the firewall. There is a bit sticking out of the head, would I be able to use vice grips to remove the remaining part of the bolt?

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

The bolts that hold the manifolds on are generally pretty easy to get to on a V6. The ABS does make it awkward, but it can be done with a 3/8" ratchet and no extension.

The snapped bolt can be taken out using vice grips, but spray it with CRC or WD40 first and let it soak for a while. Don't try and remove it in one action, rock the bolt in and out a bit first to loosen it, then remove it by undoing a bit, then doing it up a bit, then undoing again a bit more.

Another way to get it out is to weld a nut to it and then when it cools down, undo it. The heat from welding will "crack" the seal on the thread too.

[James39]

Cheers for that

I got it all done today but I still need to get the snapped bolt out as it has a leak
I was hoping to get away with until after Christmas. One thing for sure there is a big improvement with the pacemaker's installed.

Would a leak from the headers cause the engine light to come on and stay on until it restarted?

[Trikky]

I would say not, most loikely you have not connected something back up or acidently disconnected something along the way
Just check the error codes and you sill then know where to go looking

[James39]

I would say not, most loikely you have not connected something back up or acidently disconnected something along the way
Just check the error codes and you sill then know where to go looking

I am sure it is one of the oxygen sensors as I forgot to unplug one of them when removing the y-pipe (could have broken wires), plus the sensor copped a bang when I was removing the Y-Pipe which now it has a dent in it but the sensor does not rattle
I will check the codes tomorrow.

[James39]

It turns out one of the oxygen sensors was not connected lol