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Thread: Engine temp warning light.

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    Default Engine temp warning light.

    Hi all,
    Got new inlet manifold gaskets done and a new temp. sender to gauge aswell.
    Everything is running fine and but the warning light comes on (stays on for about 5secs) just over 3/4 and goes no further high fan kicks in needle comes down.
    I have tested the low/high fan ok.
    No air in system.
    When I first got the car like 2 days old the light,beeper and needle were on the red the car wasn`t bled properly fixed that so I know where is no air in system.
    I think everything is fine and I will just have to live with the new sensor.
    Ideas???????
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm" Sir Winston Churchill.
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    Bleed again, for good measure, with 2-5 litres of water in a container pressed into the rad cap hole.

    Use gravity to pressurise the system while you run the car and cycle the thermostat a few times.

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    check the voltage on the sensor wires should be around 5 volts.

    Check the sensor resistance.

    at 70c 0.474k ohms
    at 90c 0.244k ohms
    at 100c 0.180k ohms

    The temp gauge between 1/4 and 1/2 should relate to 87 - 94 Deg C sensor temps.

    Standard Memcal LOW Thermo fan kicks in at 104c and cuts out at 100c HIGH fan kicks in 109c out at 105c

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    I haven`t got a tester or know how to use one.
    Did a code check.
    Code 15 - Coolant temperature Sensor high voltage
    So does that mean the Coolant temperature Sensor is no good and have to replace it?
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm" Sir Winston Churchill.
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    hako is online now Donating Member
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    Can you shove the old one back in?....I thought it was the other sensor that turned the "DANGER HOT" warning on, but looks like I'm wrong. Your post indicates you replaced both sensors?
    I've never had trouble with airlocks in Ecotecs...just drained them and refilled, checked then OK. I'd ignore the code 15 - wipe it and see if it comes back before worrying about it.
    Peter....you know you are asking for trouble doing this sort of work on your car before Xmas....just asking for trouble!!
    "If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
    "The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux

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    Peter....you know you are asking for trouble doing this sort of work on your car before Xmas....just asking for trouble!!
    Don`t know what you are talking about Merry Xmas hako.

    The wireing to the Temp sensor is very tight GM just gave enough wire so I think I have broken the wire in the loom or at the plug.

    The gauge is right the sensor to ecu is wrong or wiring I think or I ####ed the pins in the sensor which I think I have done.
    In other words the lead needs to be longer.
    Last edited by VS_Pete_1; 25-12-2011 at 12:18 PM.
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    Only the Temp sender replace this time

    The car is driveable
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm" Sir Winston Churchill.
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    I`ll reset the ecu after I have pork,ham,chicken and beers.lol
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    Reset code fault gone car the same got this from another site.

    Temperature sender unit - The temperature sender unit used in VS V6's was caried over from VR's, but the location was changed to a hotter part of the engine. This may cause higher temperature readings on the gauge before the thermo fan cuts in. In mid 1997, the sender unit was revised to suit the new engine position and engine temperatures, which show a lower reading on the guage before thermo fan activation.

    So I will see what work can tell me on wednesday I hope they tell me I got the old type sender I`ll let you know what I find out.
    Last edited by VS_Pete_1; 27-12-2011 at 07:15 AM. Reason: change day
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    Funny went to another parts shop on saturday but owner not there and shop closed except for a mate of his working on his 4b he told me the same story about the sender.
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    Well got the car checked today the car is running fine.
    The temperture sender to gauge is not the right one I need the revised one which is not on the data base.
    The data base is telling me part number 92063571 which is not working right.
    So I`ll have to find a aftermarket one.
    REPCO had two senders listed.
    VS I , II.
    And VS I , II , III. FUELMISER CTS125.
    But I will wait for the weekend or when the Auto Shop opens and ask them.
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    If the L3 cluster temp warning lamp is going off then the cluster is getting the "I'm hot" info from the sender.
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    and 3 Dangerous non ABS VN's

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    inlet outlet temps are right and fans are coming on at the right time.
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm" Sir Winston Churchill.
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    Quote Originally Posted by VS_Pete_1 View Post
    inlet outlet temps are right and fans are coming on at the right time.
    I'll quote from your first post:
    "I think everything is fine and I will just have to live with the new sensor."
    "If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
    "The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux

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    Quote Originally Posted by VS_Pete_1 View Post
    Well got the car checked today the car is running fine.
    So you checked the Wire voltage and was 5 volts? You checked the sensor resistance vs temp?

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    Yes they did that.
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    No the sender.
    And I got the revised sender unit (part number 92061500) just have to put it in.
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    Well put it in this morning been for some drives all good.
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    update after 3 weeks more or less it is doing the same thing today have to wait till it cools down to do checks both hoses are hot.
    No codes.
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    hako is online now Donating Member
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    Pete - here's a snip from your first post on this subject:
    "I think everything is fine and I will just have to live with the new sensor".

    ps....checked the thermostat?....not in upside down?
    "If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
    "The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux

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    System flushed and new thermostat awhile ago hako so it has been running great.
    Only started when I put the new sender in but been ok for 3 weeks WTF.
    I`ll have to watch to see if the low speed fan comes on then the high speed without touching anything.
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm" Sir Winston Churchill.
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    hako is online now Donating Member
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    Why not run a couple of wires in from the fans attached to the hot lead - have bulbs on the leads so you know when the fans switch in/out. Could also wire to relay.
    "If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
    "The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux

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    tar mate I still think wires at the temp. sensor the wires are so tight like they need to be a bit longer.
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    Just an update all.
    New temp sensor to ECU.
    Replaced thermostat with a new Tridon high flow still openes up at 91c and is going great.
    I didn`t want the 82c one as I think a 9deg drop is to much. OK for super charger.
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