1995 VS Engine switching off... Ideas on what it might be?

[wowmel]

Hey all you smart commodore people.

We are having an issue with our 1995 VS Commodore (Auto) that happens randomly it seems. The first time we were driving at about 100km/h and the check engine light came on followed by the oil light, then the engin had switched off by the time we had pulled over. We checked the oil there is plenty in there. The car was service about a month and a half ago also. We got the NRMA guy to come out the next day he found no issues, we started the car, it was fine and we drove again for another 8-10km's and stopped at some traffic light and it did it again, with the NRMA guy behind us, he thought something to do with the ignition, but that didn't seem to make sense with the first switch off. Started it up and it was fine drove another 5km's home and it was fine, sat in idle for about 5mins it was fine. The next day we tried it again, got about 900 metres died, another 100 metres died, another 1km and it was fine, left the car there for a few hours, drove all the way home (2km) and it was fine. A friend suggested Oil pressure. I took it to a mechanic today, not a great one but our normal mechanic is closed for a week like the rest of the mechanics it seems. These mechanics wanted to play guessing games with us, saying it could be the Crank Angle Sensor because when it gets hot it switches off, even after I told him that, that never happened... Then blamed it on the engine belt, and then the said it might be the ignition, or oil pump or fuel pump, or this or that, and wanted us to pay them to try them all out till they got a guess right. So I got the car back and will take it to our good mechanic when they are back.

But has anyone had this happen, or have a better idea of what it might be? I mean the car is a 1995, and is getting up to or is over 200,000km so could it just be getting old? Is it even worth doing to much to it? Or should we try and sell it asap? We don't know a lot, so I might ask for thing to be exampled in non technical terms.

Thanks so much for your help, you guys have been awesome in the past. If you need more info let me know.
Mel

[TrikkBen]

Mine did it to me once, Culprit was a fried coilpack. But mine never started and ran again until I changed it.

[wowmel]

Cool thanks will add that to my list of possibilities.

[SUSVS]

Sounds like crank angle sensor to me

[VRCALAISS]

Check error codes,could be darkest 02 sensor.

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[stick3]

check your error codes

[wowmel]

Is that something the mechanic does? Or can I do that? How do I do that?

[wowmel]

ah is this a good way to check? Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised)

[VRCALAISS]

ah is this a good way to check? Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised)

Its the way I used to do it until I got a diagnostic computer.

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[wowmel]

Thanks Heaps

[Brett_jjj]

As mentioned above already, the crank angle sensor is probably worn out and causing your problems.. You definitely seem to be getting all the classic signs of a failing CAS. Definitely check the codes, its easy, just follow the directions in the link shown in one of the above posts, although sometimes a failing CAS wont even set any error codes, Ive seen this happen a few times with the V6 commys when the CAS is playing up, so its definitely worth getting the CAS replaced anyway if its more than a couple of years old, that way you can be 100% sure that its not causing the problem if its not logging codes to show its faulty. Also its best to only use genuine holden sensors, even though they cost more, they usually work out to be a lot cheaper in the long term, especially if you cant fit them yourself and have to pay someone to fit them. Most cheaper sensors are just rubbish and fail quickly.

[greenacc]

CAS or DFI ( circuit board undneath the 3 coils ). My VS was cutting out like that after 10-15 minutes and it was the DFI. New DFI and it was good for 2 years, then same thing happened and it was the DFI again. ( Hence i would avoid buying an aftermarket one although genuine is expensive, $500. )
If your error code test shows up 47,48 etc then CAS and or DFI are your suspects. If your mechanic didn't check the codes he's stupid, or acting stupid.

[MATTRESS]

I had a similar problem with my VS and every time it stopped I had to simply remove the plug off of the spark rectifier (funny looking aluminum box near air box) and plug it back in and away it went until it just decided to stop again. I swapped the whole unit with my brothers car as he too has a VS V8 and till this day it hasnt faulted although his is stopping regularly lol

[v6nutz_2011]

Just a suggestion but could save you $$$ if its the culprit
If your car is fitted with an immobiliser, check all the connections. My car done the same thing not long after i bought it, thought it was coil packs or DFI, but checked all the connections first and found one plug that wasnt pushed together properly. Fixed it and hasnt done it since

[Daz111]

A bit more food for thought.
I too have had similar problems, I have 2 commodore 5L cars, the problems have been: 1. Electronic ignition module (silver box mounted on LHS wheel arch), 2. Hall effect module within distributer (much rarer problem) 3. Engine coolant temperature sensor.
Items 1 & 3 are an easy replacement, ECT sensor is cheapest fix if that is your problem. (mine went faulty at around 200,00klms)

[seq4x4]

Iv currently got that problem, its only when slowing or braking. Short term fuel trim. The list of causes are: Oxy sensors, manifold leak, bad injectors or exhaust leak (im guessing the exhaust leak before the oxys). Check the error codes, it will confirm what is wrong with yours if it has been logged. Lately iv just had to disconnect the battery for 15mins once a day so i can still drive around without having to start the car at every set of lights.

[wowmel]

I finally got it back today, and after it played up on the mechanics, it has now fixed itself they said, I just drove it home and it seemed to be fine, though I'm still nervous to drive it too far. They said there was no error codes.. should I still check. The problem is that if we try to sell it and it does it again to the people who buy it, is it our problem? or theirs because they bought it?

[jas98]

check the wiring at the dfi module, mine was playing up although it also blew the engin fuse, they corrod and short out, sometimes they start sometimes they dont and can cause all sorts of problems

mite not be ur problem but worth a shot

[Brett_jjj]

Id drive it around again and see how it goes,then if it happens again, renew the CAS for starters as the symptoms you describe are the same as what happens when the CAS is on its way out. Also check the wiring and connectors mentioned in the above post. Its no use having a car that you cant use,or are too afraid to drive for fear of it breaking down on you, so at least give what weve said on here a go before selling it or whatever. Id say 90% chance its the CAS. Try to only use genuine holden CAS's. The cheaper ones can cause more problems than they are worth.

[damotm]

A bit more food for thought.
I too have had similar problems, I have 2 commodore 5L cars, the problems have been: 1. Electronic ignition module (silver box mounted on LHS wheel arch), 2. Hall effect module within distributer (much rarer problem) 3. Engine coolant temperature sensor.
Items 1 & 3 are an easy replacement, ECT sensor is cheapest fix if that is your problem. (mine went faulty at around 200,00klms)

+ 1 this is an accurate post