hi im getting very bad fuel around town, full tank got me just over 390'ks and the was 200 on highway (which only used a quarter) the rest was round town and it sucked the juice quickly.. yes i have a slightly heavy foot however i don't floor it every corner just once or twicelol
anyway ive got all new stuff on me car (to much to list) but i know of all te basics that cause fuel econamy issues, however is there a way of useing EFILive V4 to determin if all sensors are working correctly?
can EFILive V4 tell me if the maf sensor is stuffed? and throttle position sensor and coolent temp sensor? the self error checking gave code 12 so theres no codes
also i only got the free version on this software, can i take a log and post it up on here so someone that acctually no's how to read it tell me if theres anything wrong lol?
cheers
ok, so fuel round town is shit like its ####ing shit but on highway its soooo good
can it be a bad fuel pressure regulator? i did change it with a spare one i had as me old one was leaking, but now im getting a bad fuel burning smell from exhaust and car doesnt seem to go good as it did, but this happend a couple days after i changed it...and the regulator on there now has no fuel leaking into teh vacum line etc
sooo what can cause bad fuel round townbut not on highway? (im talking bout 7L per 100 on highway and rouuan 18L or even more round town with a slightly heavy foot but last few days being very gentle (note 7l on highway was proven with me useing same fuel station and pump after going for a long drive with aircon on the whole time
cheers
dodgy fuel sender unit maybe, telling you your using bugger all fuel on the hway when your actually chewing the fuel doing that also. what new parts have you actually put onto the car?
How old are your oxys? You can uses Tunerpro RT with the dash to check out what your oxys are doing. This is my average..:
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VR and VS error codes:
VS V8 DTC/Error codes comprehensive list.
VS V6 DTC/Error codes comprehensive list.
hi, i was thinking that, but like i said ive proven the fuel usage on highway with filling up then driveing then going back to same place etc and calculating fuel usage wichh is round the 7L mark
things ive replaced are: (which didnt help at all)
O2 sensors (new bosch)
harmonic balancer (new)
CAS (genuine)
coil packs (brand new)
swaped dfi
new wireing loom to dfi as old was shorting out blowing fuse
spark plug leads (new eagle ones 9mm)
spark plugs (new genuine ones)
cleaned the maf sensor
changed the air cleaner with new one
oils (engin and auto)
checked brakes aint dragging
cleaned/tested /changed fuel injectors (twice still the same)
checked for vacum leaks
got a MACE memcal however it made no differance (power a little but fuel usage nope not even when useing 98ron)
checked battery and its fine
thermostat new
temperature sensor has been changed but was a seconhand one that i tested (old one was ok in the end but i ####ed it trying to remove it) gonna get a new one anyway
changed fuel pressure regulator as was getting bad starts (fine now but could still be the regulator...unsure)
throttle body is clean as is plenum etc
checked for fuel leaks
cecked for error codes comming back with 12..
changed alternator wireing loom and alternator
however when car is on and air con on and high been on hazards etc the alternator seems to be only chageing tha battery at just under 11.9 volts but wne its not all loaded up with all teh accesoris on its up just over 14 volts, could it be a bad earth? or regulator? theres no battery light on etc thorght it was supposed to regulat it round the 14v make regardless
done a few other things but cant remember atm but all basics are done
just a unrealted question (or could contribute) but the left rear wheel seems to be getting hotter then the right, like when i was checking brakes the left back mag wheel was as hot as the fronts and the right back wheel was cooler (just afer going for a drive so was hot from brakeing).. could it be a bad wheel bearing? i know me diffs not in teh best shape (whinning noise) but i did replace that bearing a while ago to see if it was the wheel bearing makeing noises, also wheels spun fine so can rule out sticking breaks or hand brake
thanks
P.S sorry for the marathon post lol
not leaking fuel are you? like all the breather hoses been replaced?
sorry my bad forgot to mention that new fuel pump and filter plus new breather lines etc
cheers
Well with an after market memcal you should always run high octane (95+).
To be honest your fuel economy sounds fine to me, just adjust your driving habits around town, check yours tyres and remove any unnecessary stuff from your car. speed up slowly (its not like you need bugger all gas to get up to speed without looking like a nana with these cars) and avoid hard braking.
EDIT: check your fuel cap, you dont want to waste hydrocarbons evaporating into the air!
just a quick question but how do i check/calc my fuel economy in my VR v6 commodore? it has the old dash with the old odo
Providing the odometer is still working you get the kilometers done and divide it by liters of fuel used after you fuel up
fill your tank up to the top and say you do 460km on a tank (fuel ight comes on).
460 divide by 100= 4.6
go Litres to fill (say 50L) so 50 divided by 4.6 = 10.9 (1dp)
that about what mine does
here is a calculator http://www.accommodationz.co.nz/economycalculator.html
My method provides real time calculations by doing my method it tells how many kms per litre instead of liters per km
Ie 600\60 works out to be 10 kilometers per litre used that way when your on long trips you know how many kilometers you can drive before you run out also if you use higher rated fuel ie 98 that could jump to 12 even 14kms per litre used
But Jonah calculations are alright as well but don't really prefer it
Oh I see how you way works yeh.
mine is L/100km
Yours is km/L
The link you gave calculates it all so it can be seen both ways its all good I even bookmarked the page lol