Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 27
Like Tree4Likes

Thread: New pads and rotors soon. Should I DIY?

  1. #1
    Ride
    97 VS-II

    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    6

    Default New pads and rotors soon. Should I DIY?

    Hi guys,

    I am up for some new brake pads and rotors on my 97 VS-II Sedan. I am thinking of doing it myself but was wondering if there are any special tools like a torque-wrench etc that I may need?

    Cheers.

  2. #2
    wraith's Avatar
    wraith is offline Hand over the dog bikkies
    Ride
    '95 VR Series II

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Demonicaland
    Posts
    3,097

    Default

    To be honest I am all for doing things your self but when it comes to brakes I always suggest leaving it to the professionals. Brakes are one area you don't want to do without 100% knowledge.
    Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like




  3. #3
    Ride
    VY SS

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    835

    Default

    No special tools required. A $10 tool to push the piston back in makes life easier but it's not essential.


    Otherwise you can use a g-clamp or screwdriver to push it back.

    Only thing to watch is make sure your caliper bolts are done back up f-ing tight. Don't want them coming loose.

    Rear discs can be hard to get off, due to the handbrake. Make sure it's off. Jobs pretty easy.

  4. #4
    edals's Avatar
    edals is offline Blues Brother # 1
    Ride
    VY 2002 Wagon, VX 2001 Sedan

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    QLD/NSW Boardish
    Posts
    1,089

    Default

    Make Sure your Caliper slides are nice a greased. but if your not real keen on it, get someone that knows and get them to help you do it

  5. #5
    James39's Avatar
    James39 is offline Gave up on VL's
    Ride
    1995 VS Acclaim & 1992 Holden Barina

    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
    Posts
    876

  6. #6
    Ride
    VY Series 2 25th Anniversary in Phantom Mica

    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,396

    Default

    When changing the rotors you need to ensure the mating surface of the hubs are clean and free or any rust scale etc. when I've done these in the past I used a wire wheel in a drill and cleaned up the hub surfaces to almost shiny metal. If you dont remove all th erust scale etc the rotors may not run true and shudder or vibrate. Get the proper tool to push the pistons back in to make sure you push on it squarely. A large enough g-clamp will work but make sure you push the piston in squarely ie from the centre.

  7. #7
    VS_Pete_1's Avatar
    VS_Pete_1 is online now Donating Member
    Ride
    VE II SV6 MY12 Sportwagon

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,270

    Default

    I put slotted rotors front and back so much better than solid rotors.
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm" Sir Winston Churchill.
    My VS II Berlina Wagon

    MY12 II SV6 Sportwagon

  8. #8
    acarmody is offline Donati..Whoa Green
    Ride
    VX Berlina

    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    4,476

    Default

    When pushing the pistons back in with a g-clamp, put one of the old pads in and use the g-clamp on that to push the pistons back, that will create a nice even pressure on the pistons.

    Also make sure when pushing the pistons back that you don't overflow the brake reservoir.
    -Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
    James Bovard, Civil Libertarian (1994)
    -Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.
    P.J. O'Rourke, Civil Libertarian
    -Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short Phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
    Ronald Reagan (1986)

  9. #9
    Ride
    VS V6 Acclaim

    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    241

    Default

    Depending on age of the car, the rear discs can get trapped on by handbrake shoe clearances.

    If this is the case, get a torch and move the spare hole on the hub to the 12 o'clock position and you will see inside a shoe adjuster. You need to fully back these off by turning them a notch at a time with a flathead, clockwise. The disc will then release.

  10. #10
    Ride
    VE S2 SV6/A6

    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    229

    Default

    If you have to ask about brakes, you shouldn't DIY. Get some help from someone who really does know what they are doing, or pay someone to do it properly
    Current Ride: 2011 VE Sedan - In Voodoo of course.
    Last Ride: 2004 Subaru Liberty GT, Twin scroll turbo, tuned, Bilsteins, sway bars, no rice, 420Nm
    Also Own: 1964 EH Wagon, modified interior, minor modifications outside

  11. #11
    James39's Avatar
    James39 is offline Gave up on VL's
    Ride
    1995 VS Acclaim & 1992 Holden Barina

    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
    Posts
    876

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Voodoo_SV6 View Post
    If you have to ask about brakes, you shouldn't DIY. Get some help from someone who really does know what they are doing, or pay someone to do it properly
    I think it is good that he is asking at least he is trying to find out if he can do it before even trying.

    I have found a lot of helpful information on this forum and have done things on my car that I would normally pay someone else to do.


    Anyway the best thing to do is a get a workshop type manual and study the information on what you want to work on. that way you know what tools you need and what torque setttings.

  12. #12
    Ride
    VY SS

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    835

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Voodoo_SV6 View Post
    If you have to ask about brakes, you shouldn't DIY. Get some help from someone who really does know what they are doing, or pay someone to do it properly
    If you don't ask, how will you ever learn?

  13. #13
    Ride
    VE S2 SV6/A6

    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    229

    Default

    I'm all for DIY, but I was trained by a master for most of my car knowledge.

    Get someone to show you who knows what they are doing is my suggestion for something as important as brakes. For interior upgrades and simple non safety related items, sure, go at it and ask for advice on a forum, Brakes .... well no IMO
    Current Ride: 2011 VE Sedan - In Voodoo of course.
    Last Ride: 2004 Subaru Liberty GT, Twin scroll turbo, tuned, Bilsteins, sway bars, no rice, 420Nm
    Also Own: 1964 EH Wagon, modified interior, minor modifications outside

  14. #14
    VYMAD's Avatar
    VYMAD is offline SILVERFOX
    Ride
    VY EXECUTIVE S2

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    BUNDABERG Q
    Posts
    1,747

    Default

    The fact that the OP is even asking 'Should I DIY' puts doubt in my mind whether he would be capable. It's one thing to ask 'How is it done?' But he's basically asking us whether we think an unknown, complete stranger is capable of doing his own brakes. OP, if you need to ask us this, then in the interest of yours and everyone elses safety, take it to a pro.
    'Ah well, I suppose it had to come to this.'

  15. #15
    Ride
    VS V6 Acclaim

    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    241

    Default

    Yeah, rock into ultratune and ask for an inspection and safety check.

    They will be happy to give you $180 worth of disc and pads for somewhere around $2000.

  16. #16
    VYMAD's Avatar
    VYMAD is offline SILVERFOX
    Ride
    VY EXECUTIVE S2

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    BUNDABERG Q
    Posts
    1,747

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BowTie View Post
    Yeah, rock into ultratune and ask for an inspection and safety check.\n\nThey will be happy to give you $180 worth of disc and pads for somewhere around $2000.
    LOL no don't go there! Try a private mechanic, maybe you or a family member has a trusted, regular mechanic who won't rip you off?
    'Ah well, I suppose it had to come to this.'

  17. #17
    Ride
    VY SS

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    835

  18. #18
    Ride
    97 VS-II

    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Thanks for the replies guys. Much appreciated. I have taken your comments on board, but I think I will might play it safe and either take it a local mechanic, or at least get one of my mates who has done this before (on a falcon - but the principle would still be the same right?) to show me how it is done. Like you said - if I have to ask first if I should do it, then maybe I shouldn't. This is why I love it here - heaps of constructive advice. Legends!

  19. #19
    Ride
    97 VS-II

    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Also - totally agree about big chain-store mechanics. This VS was tram-tracking severely when I first got it. It was dangerous. It would take a groove in the lane and want to pull you out of the lane or into the gutter etc. I went to place that assured me they would give me a quote on rectifying the problem with 'no bull' and they pretty much quoted a complete suspension rebuild back to factory spec at just over $4000. A mate mentioned the tyres might be too wide (aftermarket rims - long since removed) and we tried a pair of stockys and problem solved!! Got some new rims, new narrower tyres (still wider than OEM but narrower than what was on it) and it drives beautifully now. 320000kms and still going strong.

  20. #20
    VYMAD's Avatar
    VYMAD is offline SILVERFOX
    Ride
    VY EXECUTIVE S2

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    BUNDABERG Q
    Posts
    1,747

    Default

    No worries, Dainus, and good luck whatever way you decide to go. If your mate that did the Ford can help you, then that might be the go. But just be sure he knows what he's doing! There are plenty of threads about brakes on JC. I'm all for DIY but brakes are a pretty important thing to get right!
    'Ah well, I suppose it had to come to this.'

  21. #21
    Ride
    VY SS

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    835

    Default

    Falcon should be pretty much identical. If he's happy to help its a good way for you to learn.

  22. #22
    Ride
    vp senator & VS Ute

    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Townsville
    Posts
    75

    Default

    As above , also check out UTUBE there is always tutorials on there for just about anything and consult your Gregory's manual.. We all had to start somewhere.
    Look for similar to this... Markovr from here has done one also on VT brakes, cheers
    AUSMODS - DIY how to change your brake pads (Se1 - Ep 2) - YouTube
    Personally I suggest using Locktite on calliper bolts [must on a Hj75]] LOL.

  23. #23
    Ride
    VS V6 Acclaim

    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    241

    Default

    Rather than use loctite, as it doubles the required torque to undo, making future work more difficult, I use a 750mm 1/2inch breaker bar to undo them with a pole extension to refit them.

    On HJ i would use it for sure.

  24. #24
    Ride
    vp senator & VS Ute

    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Townsville
    Posts
    75

    Red face

    Quote Originally Posted by BowTie View Post
    Rather than use loctite, as it doubles the required torque to undo, making future work more difficult, I use a 750mm 1/2inch breaker bar to undo them with a pole extension to refit them.

    On HJ i would use it for sure.
    ROTFL< No offence but I only use a 400mm breaker bar and Locktite 3222 it stops the caliper bolts working loose. Regards
    Technically the calliper bolts should be replaced on the Holden as the new bolts come with a thread locking compound on them.
    But being a tight ass and not needing a drive to Holden, I reuse them. Dam expensive when the calliper swings forward and smashes everything on the cruiser and locks the wheel. Guaranteed it won't happen in a convenient place LOL
    Last edited by redvpsenator; 11-01-2012 at 06:25 PM.

  25. #25
    Ride
    VY SS

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    835

    Default

    Is that only on vs or all commys? I'll make sure I get new bolts for mine when they need to be done.

    I just use a 300mm half inch power bar but an additional pipe just makes life easier, even if it's not required.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Rotors and Pads for VY V6
    By a1k3m1 in forum GSL RallySport
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 17-05-2011, 12:20 PM
  2. QFM Pads+ RDA Rotors for SS
    By 2005vzute in forum GSL RallySport
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 21-02-2011, 09:26 PM
  3. Rotors and pads
    By phatass in forum VE Holden Commodore (2006 - ?)
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 26-09-2010, 09:57 AM
  4. VZ Rotors and Pads
    By Jimmy SV6 in forum VZ Holden Commodore (2004 - 2006)
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 18-08-2010, 09:53 AM
  5. PBR Rotors/Pads
    By Tom_1569 in forum General
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 05-10-2008, 07:05 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72