Hi guys,
I am up for some new brake pads and rotors on my 97 VS-II Sedan. I am thinking of doing it myself but was wondering if there are any special tools like a torque-wrench etc that I may need?
Cheers.
To be honest I am all for doing things your self but when it comes to brakes I always suggest leaving it to the professionals. Brakes are one area you don't want to do without 100% knowledge.
Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like
No special tools required. A $10 tool to push the piston back in makes life easier but it's not essential.
Otherwise you can use a g-clamp or screwdriver to push it back.
Only thing to watch is make sure your caliper bolts are done back up f-ing tight. Don't want them coming loose.
Rear discs can be hard to get off, due to the handbrake. Make sure it's off. Jobs pretty easy.
Make Sure your Caliper slides are nice a greased. but if your not real keen on it, get someone that knows and get them to help you do it
Pads are easy, but the rotors can be a pain in the arse to remove..
When changing the rotors you need to ensure the mating surface of the hubs are clean and free or any rust scale etc. when I've done these in the past I used a wire wheel in a drill and cleaned up the hub surfaces to almost shiny metal. If you dont remove all th erust scale etc the rotors may not run true and shudder or vibrate. Get the proper tool to push the pistons back in to make sure you push on it squarely. A large enough g-clamp will work but make sure you push the piston in squarely ie from the centre.
I put slotted rotors front and back so much better than solid rotors.
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm" Sir Winston Churchill.
My VS II Berlina Wagon
MY12 II SV6 Sportwagon
When pushing the pistons back in with a g-clamp, put one of the old pads in and use the g-clamp on that to push the pistons back, that will create a nice even pressure on the pistons.
Also make sure when pushing the pistons back that you don't overflow the brake reservoir.
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Depending on age of the car, the rear discs can get trapped on by handbrake shoe clearances.
If this is the case, get a torch and move the spare hole on the hub to the 12 o'clock position and you will see inside a shoe adjuster. You need to fully back these off by turning them a notch at a time with a flathead, clockwise. The disc will then release.
If you have to ask about brakes, you shouldn't DIY. Get some help from someone who really does know what they are doing, or pay someone to do it properly
Current Ride: 2011 VE Sedan - In Voodoo of course.
Last Ride: 2004 Subaru Liberty GT, Twin scroll turbo, tuned, Bilsteins, sway bars, no rice, 420Nm
Also Own: 1964 EH Wagon, modified interior, minor modifications outside
I think it is good that he is asking at least he is trying to find out if he can do it before even trying.
I have found a lot of helpful information on this forum and have done things on my car that I would normally pay someone else to do.
Anyway the best thing to do is a get a workshop type manual and study the information on what you want to work on. that way you know what tools you need and what torque setttings.
I'm all for DIY, but I was trained by a master for most of my car knowledge.
Get someone to show you who knows what they are doing is my suggestion for something as important as brakes. For interior upgrades and simple non safety related items, sure, go at it and ask for advice on a forum, Brakes .... well no IMO
Current Ride: 2011 VE Sedan - In Voodoo of course.
Last Ride: 2004 Subaru Liberty GT, Twin scroll turbo, tuned, Bilsteins, sway bars, no rice, 420Nm
Also Own: 1964 EH Wagon, modified interior, minor modifications outside
The fact that the OP is even asking 'Should I DIY' puts doubt in my mind whether he would be capable. It's one thing to ask 'How is it done?' But he's basically asking us whether we think an unknown, complete stranger is capable of doing his own brakes. OP, if you need to ask us this, then in the interest of yours and everyone elses safety, take it to a pro.
'Ah well, I suppose it had to come to this.'
Yeah, rock into ultratune and ask for an inspection and safety check.
They will be happy to give you $180 worth of disc and pads for somewhere around $2000.
Or do you have a friend/family member who can help you out to DIY?
Thanks for the replies guys. Much appreciated. I have taken your comments on board, but I think I will might play it safe and either take it a local mechanic, or at least get one of my mates who has done this before (on a falcon - but the principle would still be the same right?) to show me how it is done. Like you said - if I have to ask first if I should do it, then maybe I shouldn't. This is why I love it here - heaps of constructive advice. Legends!![]()
Also - totally agree about big chain-store mechanics. This VS was tram-tracking severely when I first got it. It was dangerous. It would take a groove in the lane and want to pull you out of the lane or into the gutter etc. I went to place that assured me they would give me a quote on rectifying the problem with 'no bull' and they pretty much quoted a complete suspension rebuild back to factory spec at just over $4000. A mate mentioned the tyres might be too wide (aftermarket rims - long since removed) and we tried a pair of stockys and problem solved!! Got some new rims, new narrower tyres (still wider than OEM but narrower than what was on it) and it drives beautifully now. 320000kms and still going strong.
No worries, Dainus, and good luck whatever way you decide to go. If your mate that did the Ford can help you, then that might be the go. But just be sure he knows what he's doing! There are plenty of threads about brakes on JC. I'm all for DIY but brakes are a pretty important thing to get right!
'Ah well, I suppose it had to come to this.'
Falcon should be pretty much identical. If he's happy to help its a good way for you to learn.
As above , also check out UTUBE there is always tutorials on there for just about anything and consult your Gregory's manual.. We all had to start somewhere.
Look for similar to this... Markovr from here has done one also on VT brakes, cheers
AUSMODS - DIY how to change your brake pads (Se1 - Ep 2) - YouTube
Personally I suggest using Locktite on calliper bolts [must on a Hj75]] LOL.
Rather than use loctite, as it doubles the required torque to undo, making future work more difficult, I use a 750mm 1/2inch breaker bar to undo them with a pole extension to refit them.
On HJ i would use it for sure.
ROTFL< No offence but I only use a 400mm breaker bar and Locktite 3222 it stops the caliper bolts working loose. Regards
Technically the calliper bolts should be replaced on the Holden as the new bolts come with a thread locking compound on them.
But being a tight ass and not needing a drive to Holden, I reuse them. Dam expensive when the calliper swings forward and smashes everything on the cruiser and locks the wheel. Guaranteed it won't happen in a convenient place LOL
Last edited by redvpsenator; 11-01-2012 at 06:25 PM.
Is that only on vs or all commys? I'll make sure I get new bolts for mine when they need to be done.
I just use a 300mm half inch power bar but an additional pipe just makes life easier, even if it's not required.