Flushing VS Radiator help please!
Hey guys i got my replacement radiator today its just a striaght swap in, was just wondering how i go about flushing the system and cleaning/prep so that its ready to run. Any help would be much appreciated
Donating Member
Unless the block is full of crap, it probably will be OK just to give it a flush using a garden hose - just disconnect one of the heater hoses at the engine end and stick the garden hose in there and give it a flush.....then stick the garden hose up the other end and flush again. Stop when the water is clear. Doing it this way means you do not need to remove the thermostat - the water will flow thru the head,block and heater. Some people remove plugs at the bottom of the block but that involves a lot of work for possibly limited gain.
When I do this, I fit new hoses and a new heater tap just for safety's sake, and then add a 5 litre container of Nulon Long Life, top up with tank water, bleed if necessary with the bleeder screw on top of the thermostat housing and the car is good for 4 years. Fit a new radiator cap as well. Good Luck.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
I would also change the thermostat while your there they arnt expensive. Also remember to get the coolant level at the radiator cap higher then the bleed point to get all the air out
Oh god not this thermostat shit... what would be most beneficial; Replace with stock thermo, replace with a cooler (eg. 72 degree) thermo or a stock temperature but aftermarket thermo
Now.. i may have dropped a bolt down the manifold pipe, how do i go about this (i know, i know)
Donates His Member
lol, what?
MY WEAPON: http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ng-10-psi.html
NEED 3.9 or 3.7 DIFF GEARS, PM ME IF YOU KNOW OF ANYOriginally Posted by wraith
stock thermos are all good to use mate and which manifold pipe (inlet?) but try using a long bendy magnet and get it down, needless to say dont try and crank it over though
Magnet was what i thought, ill get that sorted thanks feral!
Ive heard that using a 72degree isnt necessary in a maturally aspirated, know if its worht upgrading though?
To quote BowTie
"For those that really want a thermo upgrade, Intense Racing in the US do high flow units in standard and lower temps.
They are adamant that without ecu mods, you need to stay with the standard temp.
I'm running one of their high flow standard temp units and it keeps the car warm enough to run properly yet improves the cooling times with a wide open thermo.
This results in a tighter operating temp range keeping the variations to minimum.
Warning: You wont be able to stop at just a thermo. I'm a gold customer with these guys.
http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/...e=3800_Cooling "
Any thoughts?
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