backyard argument starter
something fishy
hey guys nd gurls. just been reading some stuff about crank angle sensors. but i still cant figure out if mine is the only problem i have. i have a vr 94 v6 auto and have just replaced the trans in it(boy was that a prick of a job lol) and now i just got a workshop manual for christmas. first thing i did was check the codes and i got code 47. i believe that is the CAS code, no signal. however i also have gotten running rich fuel code and my idle is a bit rough and fast(about 1000rpm). can the cas cause it to run rich and rough? the other thing its doin is when i go around a corner i have to slow down for it will drop down to first no matter how hard i press the throttle. ive changed the MAP sensor over from the car i gto the trand out of and the ecu. any ideas?????
i have a 94 vr commodore series 2 acclaim. i put the transmission in from a vr series 2 exec. not in LHM (Limp home mode) as far as i know. i can feel it go into overdrive out on the highway.
changes thru all 4 gears no worries. i put my foot to the floor today from standing start and she changed from 1st to 2nd at about 4500rpm.
What i have just gotten today is code 44 - o2 sensor lean.
previous codes from the other week 47 -x16 no signal (crank angle sensor)
She is reasonable on fuel on the highway (Half a tank for 400 kms) but around town i can basically hear the pump slurping as it sucks the juice.
and the other thing that happens is that when i go around a corner that i have to slow down for, it will go back into first gear sometimes even if its not needed. and the it comes good again. i have the wrecker out the back if anyone can suggest anything that might be the cause.
just tried something i seen on here. i disconnected the MAP sensor vac line just now and the engine did wat its supposed to, it nearly stalled. but then the iac kicked in and it idled ok for about 10 seconds went rough again and then repeated the process til i reconnected the vac hose.
What i have done.
I have put a cold air intake onto it(CAI), i took the bell mouth out (since it was running rough already i thought y not), changed the trans over for the wrecker as mine blew up(rev was stuffed, locked into 2nd), replaced the o2 sensor as i read here that o2 can mess with the shifting in the trans. Plus the usual electrickary(Stereo, subs, amps, hardwired my navman charger thru an aftermarket dual socket. ive swapped the ecu from wrecker into mine just incase.... just put an new belt on which has made the idler pulley rattle a lil bit.
Thats pretty much it. sorry for the long winded explanation but i thought id get the info out there on someones advice.
Last edited by aussie4life11; 17-01-2012 at 11:27 PM.
crappy ol' VN driver
Generally the CAS either works or it doesn't. When they get old they start to play up when they get hot and the engine stops. once it cools down the engine will start again.
rough, bad idle. First recommendation is to clean out the throttle body. Remove it, take off the TPS and IAC and give it a good clean out with some carb cleaner., refit, reset idle and see what happens. I generally disconnect the battery whilst doing the TB, that way any error codes are also reset.
See how it goes.
Where did the ecu/trans come from. Wrong ecu will effect how it runs as well
Cheers
Body by Holden, Soul by Brock
the Legend will live forever
VN exec T5: 15.1sec @92.2mph 1/4 mile, 9.7sec @ 74.6mph 1/8mile, 2.3sec 60ft, 0-60mph 6.827sec 22/11/07 Gtech competition
yep cas's arent intermittent. They work or they dont. Do as above, but i would also clean the cas and loom terminals with some contact cleaner. To have cas signal issues in a car that runs sort of ok, is probably a contamination or oxidisation of the dry joints in the connector.
Ive seen quite a few oily ones due to their placement.
backyard argument starter
yea she has heaps of power to overtake trucks on the highway and all its just idleing thats rough. the code i got was 47 crank angle sensor - no signal(had to google ot cos i couldnt find it in my new book. just had the tb off and had the iac and tps out, both cleaned. how do you reset the idle??? it has stalled twice while i was sitting in maccas drivethrus in drive. will try to do that. can you recoment anythin i might have in the shed atm to clean? i sont have any money atm but got things like crc and wd40. would they work?
backyard argument starter
can the CAS affect idling and fuel efficiancy(e.g. make the car run rich?) and i have just replace all spark plugs and leads with brand new ones
The CAS Is directly linked to when your coils fire but the symptoms you are describing can be linked to a Faulty O2 sensor , a faulty MAP/MAF sensor, faulty fuel regulator or leaking injectors and it doesnt always throw a codeOriginally Posted by aussie4life11
backyard argument starter
i have just replaced the o2 sensor with a new one. tried swapping the map sensor. what do you mean by fuel regulator. just replaced the injectors and seals. i have disconnected each injector and the rough idle doesnt seem to be comin from just one particular injector
backyard argument starter
How do i diagnose if i dont have codes?
backyard argument starter
got the trans and ecu from a wrecker vr exec trans is a recon job. both my original and the new ecu make no dif. the onli thing i havent done is change tha box under the drivers seat. i dont kno what it is so i thought it wud be best to leave it alone
Donating Member
Check your Throttle Position Sensor using the guides in your manual - if it plays up it can make the trans think the throttle is in a different position etc and cause all sorts of problems. Cleaning it may be of no use if it's stuffed. The box under the drivers seat is probably the airbag sensor.
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Donating Member
Yeap, box under the seat is for the airbag system and Recommended not to touch any of the yellow wiring
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backyard argument starter
ok. when i took the tp sensor off it sprung back a lil bit and i had to put it onto the tab and then turn it a bit to line up the screw holes, is that normal? also what is the box behind the kick pannel on the driverside??? big silver one with a funny looking connection.(lots of wires all laying down in a row lol)
The fuel regulator is the vacuum thing on the back of the the drivers side fuel rail Your Not in limp home mode by any chance? This happened to Our VR calais when the gearbox was swapped and we had to replace the gearbox 3 times before it came good and it didnt always throw a code.... What is the code on the side of your gearbox ? and are you sure its the correct one for the year and model of your car ? there are a couple of different ones get it wrong and it goes into limp home mode or wont run right
backyard argument starter
i have a 94 vr commodore series 2 acclaim. i put the transmission in from a vr series 2 exec. not in LHM as far as i know. i can feel it go into overdrive out on the highway.
changes thru all 4 gears no worries. i put my foot to the floor today from standing start and she changed from 1st to 2nd at about 4500rpm.
What i have just gotten is code 44 - o2 sensor lean.
previous codes 47 -x16 no signal (crank angle sensor)
She is reasonable on fuel on the highway (Half a tank for 400 kms) but around town i can basically hear the pump slurping as it sucks the juice.
and the other thing that happens is that when i go around a corner that i have to slow down for, it will go back into first gear sometimes even if its not needed. and the it comes good again. i have the wrecker out the back if anyone can suggest anything that might be the cause.
just tried something i seen on here. i disconnected the MAP sensor vac line just now and the engine did wat its supposed to, it nearly stalled. but then the iac kicked in and it idled ok for about 10 seconds went rough again and then repeated the process til i reconnected the vac hose.
What i have done.
I have put a cold air intake onto it(CAI), i took the bell mouth out (since it was running rough already i thought y not), changed the trans over for the wrecker as mine blew up(rev was stuffed, locked into 2nd), replaced the o2 sensor as i read here that o2 can mess with the shifting in the trans. Plus the usual electrickary(Stereo, subs, amps, hardwired my navman charger thru an aftermarket dual socket. ive swapped the ecu from wrecker into mine just incase.... just put an new belt on which has made the idler pulley rattle a lil bit.
Thats pretty much it. sorry for the long winded explanation but i thought id get the info out there on someones advice.
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