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My Headache of a VR is tryin to kill me i think
hey ppl
i have a 94 vr commodore series 2 acclaim. i put the transmission in from a vr series 2 exec as my trans was rooted to the max. not in LHM as far as i know. i can feel it go into overdrive out on the highway.
changes thru all 4 gears no worries. i put my foot to the floor today from standing start and she changed from 1st to 2nd at about 4500rpm.
What i have just gotten is code 44 - o2 sensor lean.
previous codes 47 -x16 no signal (crank angle sensor)
She is reasonable on fuel on the highway (Half a tank for 400 kms) but around town i can basically hear the pump slurping as it sucks the juice.
and the other thing that happens is that when i go around a corner that i have to slow down for, it will go back into first gear sometimes even if its not needed. and the it comes good again. i have the wrecker out the back if anyone can suggest anything that might be the cause.
just tried something i seen on here. i disconnected the MAP sensor vac line just now and the engine did wat its supposed to, it nearly stalled. but then the iac kicked in and it idled ok for about 10 seconds went rough again and then repeated the process til i reconnected the vac hose.
What i have done.
I have put a cold air intake onto it(CAI), i took the bell mouth out (since it was running rough already i thought y not), changed the trans over for the wrecker as mine blew up(rev was stuffed, locked into 2nd), replaced the o2 sensor as i read here that o2 can mess with the shifting in the trans. Plus the usual electrickary(Stereo, subs, amps, hardwired my navman charger thru an aftermarket dual socket). ive swapped the ecu from wrecker into mine just incase.... just put an new belt on which has made the idler pulley rattle a lil bit.
Thats pretty much it. sorry for the long winded explanation but i thought id get the info out there on someones advice.
any help would be greatly appreciated. shud i put the bcm and the pcm from the wrecker into my car?? i have the remote from the wrecker car that went witht the bcm. will it make a difference
EDIT: i just remembered that i tried the vac and purge lines on my canister and there was no vac or anything in there once i turned the car off. is this normal?
More time than money
The BCM is to do with things like your Immobiliser, etc.
It basically gets the "go" codes from your keyhead and gives the OK for every electrical part in your car to work.
Often attributed to starting difficulties. The symptoms you described dont sound like they have anything to do with the BCM.
My VR is a pain in the ass tooJust persevere ... The self satisfaction and reliable car will be worth it in the end.
Cheers,
Jake.
Donating Member
When you played with the airbox, you did reconnect the airbox temp sensor didn't you????
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
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as far as i kno it doesnt have a sensor. i dont remember having to disconnect one and theres no holes in the airbox for one from memory. where would it be if it had one?
Donating Member
Maybe the VR doesn't have one - the VS has one on the air cleaner upper housing. Proper name is "Intake Air Temperature Sensor". I know if it's left disconnected you have problems.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
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well the vr box i have has the upper lid which is solit and a plain hose that goes from ther to the throttle body, no electrics in that hose either
The MAT (Manifold Air Temperature) sensor on the VRV6 is located on the inlet manifold, not in the airbox like the VS. Holden started calling it the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor on the VSV6 models..
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which side and how hard is it to find?
Its located at the rear drivers side of the inlet manifold.
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UPDATE: tonights lucky dip of codes is.... drum roll please................................ code 33, code 44, and last but not least, code 47. i hope these were your lucky numbers and we look forward to seeing you next week...
but seriously, what are they for my vr v6 and what could be causing so many codes to come up????
Gave up on VL's
It means there is a problem with them and should be checked and maybe replaced.
If the sensors are old then I would replace them with new not second hand parts, it is that simple... after all the faults are telling you they are broken..
Just Commodores - For All Your Holden Commodore Needs
Code 33 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP) high voltage
Code 44 - Oxygen Sensor Lean (O2) V6
I think other things can cause the O2 sensor to go lean, since the MAP is faulty then you should replace it, maybe that will fix your problem with the lean fault code of the O2 sensor...
Code 47 - 18x Reference Signal Missing
Have you replaced the CAS?
Also have you reset the ECU by disconecting the battery for 10 mins?
Last edited by James39; 18-01-2012 at 11:48 PM.
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but i think ive had more codes than a cia encripted email. whats causing all of these bloody codes??????????? im pulin my hair out here lol
Donating Member
Your probably looking at replacing every sensor possible
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but, couldnt it be that one sensor is setting off a chain reaction? i think the first code i had was 47, cas. cos its gotta be a big bloody coincidence for these sensors to be going like this one after the other
Gave up on VL's
The CAS no, but maybe the MAP sensor might trigger the O2 sensor...Originally Posted by aussie4life11
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bit if the map is functioning ok wouldnt the car nearly stall if you took the vac hose off of it?
Gave up on VL's
That just caused a vac leak which would make the the motor almost stall anyway.
Have you reset the ECU by disconecting the battery for 10 mins?
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ok, i think ive got a diagnosis. when i took the vac hose off the map sensor lastnight it nearly stalled. but then my thumb accidentally blocked the hole and it did sound like it was idling "normally". hopefully thats all it is
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jus had a tought. when i had to change my trans it was because i got water in it from the radiator. the cooler in the radiator cracked. could this maybe have something to do with my problems. i mean i drained my fluid when i changed the radiator for a new one but i never properly flushed it. can anyone see where im coming from???
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ive just pulled my MAT sensor out and its all oily and fummed up. could that be a problem or is it normal for them to get like that?
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