Stalling in the heat

[Bcb001]

My 95 caprice stalls After 10-15 mins starts and drives like nothing happen
Can anyone tell me what the problem is please

[Scrubmonk]

Could be any number of things:
You need to re-create the problem first, then while it is not oing test the following:
- Sensor in distributor (this was my problem) - Test the distributor input voltage where it plugs into the ignition module
- Ignition module - Test the output voltage of the module (My bet is that this is the problem, giving that it is stalling)
- If both of those OK, then it is possibly your coil
Could well be other things, fuel related, but this would be the starting points.

[calais24/7]

crank angle sensor

[Scrubmonk]

crank angle sensor

V8's don't have a crank angle sensor running off the harmonic balancer like the V6, the crank angle in a V8 is controlled by the hall effect sensor in the dizzy.
In my experience, a crook sensor will stop them from starting when hot but usually won't cause them to stall when hot. This is why I'm thinking it is probably the ignition module.

[L67 Calais]

V8's don't have a crank angle sensor running off the harmonic balancer like the V6, the crank angle in a V8 is controlled by the hall effect sensor in the dizzy.
In my experience, a crook sensor will stop them from starting when hot but usually won't cause them to stall when hot. This is why I'm thinking it is probably the ignition module.

How do you know it's a V8 ?

[Scrubmonk]

How do you know it's a V8 ?

His ride is listed as a "95 statesman caprice 5L" so it was a fair assumption.

[L67 Calais]

His ride is listed as a "95 statesman caprice 5L" so it was a fair assumption.

Yep, Good Call

[Bcb001]

Found a slit vacuum hose that run from the rocker cover to the throttle body if that gets hot and gets sucked close could that be causing it

[Scrubmonk]

Found a slit vacuum hose that run from the rocker cover to the throttle body if that gets hot and gets sucked close could that be causing it

It certainly wouldn't be helping matters, but i doubt that it would be your main cause of it cutting out and not starting when hot. Easy to replace and see if it makes any difference.

My money is on either the dizzy sensor or the ignition module. Both are around $200 for parts, but the ignition module is a 5 minute job to change; the dizzy requires you to be double jointed, work by feel and a lot of swearing to get out.

Get a wiring diagram and a multimeter, pull back the cover a bit to expose the wires on the plug in on the ignition module, stick it on the input wire from the dizzy to the ignition module (white and mauve from memory but don't quote me on that) should be about 4.5v normally. If you are still getting 4.5v when you crank it over, and it is refusing to go, then the dizzy is OK and it is most likely the ignition module. If you get no signal, time for a new distributor.