Hey Guys,
Just finished installing a VS gearbox and Torque Converter into my 93 VR Calais.... I was told it was basically a straight swap apart from having to change the extension housing. The gearbox is from a Commodore wreckers who say they test everything before they sell it, have bought from them before etc etc. They said They put a service kit through all there gearboxs before selling them and they come with 6 months warranty.... Everything got hooked and lined up correctly and did as my Haynes book said. Is there a possibility I need maybe a PCM from a VS? My car also has a Custom tune from THE1 disabling the code 68, plus with a few extras added.
Any ideas and thoughts?
Cheers
Black_Stig
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
Was the Vr box electronic or cable kickdown? I'm not sure with the Vr box, but you may need to do something with the computer
VR Box was the 4L60E - E for electronic, so I' am starting to think I need to change maybe the PCM to a VS one?
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
Looking at another post from, you guessed it, aussie4life11, he's had trouble as well, though not the same, someone was saying that they had differences from model to model
Can you please post the link to the thread here...
Thanks![]()
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
The VS has the electronic 4L60 whilst the VR has the non-electronic version of the 4L60....this means you cannot fit the VS box into a VR or vice-versa unless you make a lot of electrical mods. Basically the VR has a cable operated kickdown whilst the VS does this electronically.
The wreckers have sold you the wrong box unfortunately - they should have known that they do not fit. Do not let them talk you into trying to 'modify' the box as it cannot easily be done.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
VR uses a 4L60E gearbox Hako, have gotten parts for it before.... No Kick down cable since the VP.
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
Thanx for the mention kingswood. My problem started with my original trans shit itself. Rev was fried and locked in second. Now it only only playsup goin round corners and up steep hill. Kicks down rto first then back up. Have u tried to change gears manually?
The search function: try it people it actually works. heres proof
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vr-vs-holden-commodore-1993-1997/190851-thanks-heaps.html
Vr/Vs Commodore code checking
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...s-revised.html
Check the electrical connectors on both boxes because the VS uses 13 pins in its connector and the VR only had 12,this is why these boxes are not interchangable,even though they will bolt up no problem.. Both VR and VS boxes are 4L60E's,just different versions.
even though they both use 4l60e's, what year did you remove from your VR? 4hdd 5hdd? guessing the VS is a 6/7HDD, these have 1 more wire in the plug as said above, so it's not just an ecu swap to get it working, you need the correct trans to suit your vehicle, ecu, memcal and wiring loom.
The 6HDD also has 1 more solenoid internally so it's a slightly different valve body. Also depending on the year difference in the TCC solenoid and how it actuates.
to get this working you'll pretty much have to change the loom, ecu, convert to maf, retune the memcal for a buick 3.8 not the ecotec......... it can be done, have discussed it with trans builders in the past but honestly, putting the correct/compatible trans in is much easier.
Last edited by Jxw; 30-01-2012 at 01:08 PM.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
Thanks guys, had a feeling it had something to do with the electronic system of it. Looks like I'm taking it back out and installing my old one again. Old one is still ok, just revs out a bit and there is a few seconds delay in changing from Reverse to Drive.... Original reason why I was replacing it, was from the post "Weird Noise", turns out the Torque Converter bolts had come loose. If I had known this, I would of just removed the starter motor and tightened them up.... Live and learn I guess lol.
Thanks again.
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
while you have it out drain it completely, tip as much as possible out of the tc, put service kit thru it and give it fresh fluid, might give it a new lease on life.
Had only just put a new service kit through my old box before I replaced it![]()
Can anyone back this up? If I swap the valve bodies over will I need to change the 12pin Electrical connector that is ON the gearbox over with the the 11pin?Im pretty sure you can swap the valve bodies over. Give it a try
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
95% sure that is the case, you'd swap the internal loom and plug over as well as the valve body, you'll need new gaskets, could always just shift kit it while you're doing that.... i'd say best done out of the car as the check balls may fall out and go rolling if you did it in the car....
do a search on the 4l60e plenty of americans have done alot to them...
Yeah have done Valve body removal before etc, just wasn't sure if the internal Loom would need to swapped also. Have removed and installed new valve body gasket kit in my old one while still in the car. I think I might just swap the gearbox's back over, just seems to be a bit less hassle then doing the internal swap. Don't really want to swap it back as apparently the VS box had just been reconditioned not to long ago.... Oh well can go get our money back anyways![]()
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
if it's a reco trans, do the vb swap, easier if you've done it before and the plug should be easy enough to remove from the housing, maybe replace the oring seal aswell, if your vr one is slow to engage etc it may not last much longer, apart from the valve body the internals are pretty much identical.
![]()
How did you manage to remove the connector? Might go practice on my old VT box![]()
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
Just went out then and had a look at my VR box I took out and It has 12 pins, the same as my VT.... So I think it might be back to the drawing board?
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
13 pins in a 6hdd and up connector, just need to push the 4 lock tabs pictured in and push the connector from the top (plug side) down
just looked at a vr engine loom and it has 12 pins populated
other loom i have has 13 (can't remember if it's vx or vy), VT should have 13 not 12
VR as pictured, VS and up have an extra pin at the red mark
2nd page should be the 6hdd and up connector (only 13 pin pic i could fins with a quick search, it could be completely wrong but it makes sense)
http://www.autodiagnosticsandpublish...ansmission.pdf
Last edited by Jxw; 30-01-2012 at 08:22 PM.
I'll go have another look at my VT, but fairly sure I only counted 12 Pins. That is a 7HDD.
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!