daora
if your car is cutting out when it gets hots but starts again when it cools - these are the classic symptoms of the crank angle sensor failing
next time it does it poor some cool water on your harmonic balancer and try starting it straight away, if it starts again without waiting for the car to cool the crank angle sensor is stuffed
from what I have read on here only get a genuine one as everybody says the ebay ones fail quickly
Trikky is right its a warped crank angle sensor
Is weird dude they told me they put new CAS and the Harmonic Balancer was replaced :S its gotta be something they missedfriend of mine on facebooke whos a mechanic dealt witht this issue of mine.....apprently its a throttle sensor but i reckon it could be multiple things wrong
im worried bout that car.
was the CAS a genuine one from holden or a so called genuine from EBAY?
hey if they used a genuine one from holden you still could have got a dud
ok as mentioned yesterday it sounds like you have a faulty CAS with what it is doing - nothing against the Holden guy that looked at it but even the so calle dexperts can be stumped at times
off topic a friend had a FPV FG F6 that used to stall, 2 different Ford dealers looked at it and even a FPV guy looked at it, none of them could work out what was going on - my friend ended up fixing it himself
Back onto your car, ask your mechanic what brand of CAS did he use, did he get it from Holden or elsewhere?
Your sympton is exactly the same as what I had last week when the CAS was playing up in my car
I'm that close about to give up on that car i had a feeling that teh car i bought turned out to be a lemon
Got mi car back today and it turned out to be a burnt out fuel regualtor......and the fuel pump was burnt out too....they replaced em filled her up and all good i now have full tank of fuel......but now i have an electrical issue.....my driver side power window wont go up anymore i can hear the motor working but no action......the passenger side rear works but sometimes wont go up ud have to put it all the way down for it to work properly. ....im thinking fuse but dont know where to look and another thing i could think of is the motor or regulator as what u guys call it....
if you can hear the motor working it will not be a fuse but the window regulator itself
The motor drives the window via a cable and there is a plastic bit that breaks on them - you will need to replace the whole window regulator
Had to do it on mine when I first got it took about an hour to do
here is the how to on installing power windows into a car - will help with changing the regulator
How to install Power Windows
Last edited by Trikky; 09-02-2012 at 07:15 PM.
no soldering iron needed as you already have power windows
basically you will need to drill out the rivetts used to hold the original window regulator on, unplug it from the wiring harness, remove the old one and refit the replacement one and use some high tensile nuts/bolts with washers to hold the window regulator inplace.
I posted the guide as it shows how to remove the regulator etc
Yep exactly - sounds like your "mechanic" is not so much one
As James said don't blame your poor car for his butchering
Well going by what is said they are not, it may even be completely broken and do not see it when they remove the pump. The symptoms you have mentioned point towards the return line in the tank been broken. Your outside fuel lines would be fine...
I would even put a wager on it, that the return line in the tank is the problem. Would of saved a lot of money if you replaced the fuel tank.
Plus it is obvious that they have lied to you as you still have the problems, would have been better going to someone who knows how to fix your car.
Depends on many things. If people knew you had a bad mechanic working on it they would offer you very little or would not touch it.
How about you find a better mechanic to fix your car or better yet get a workshop manual and study it, you will be amazed on the things you will be able to do yourself and also if you took it to a mechanic you will know what they are saying is right.
I have only had my VS since June last year and so far I have had to fix many things and I will not part with it now.
Thanks to all the tips and advise on this forum I now have a better understanding of my car and the money I have saved as well.
My advise to you is to get another fuel tank for your VS and before you get it installed make sure the fuel return line is not broken, in fact make sure it is not broken before you buy it....
Mate i got the car towed back to the same mechanic spoken to the head mechanic and i told em were back to square 1...the guy said most likley the fuel tank may need raplacing...i got a full tank of 95 premium in it. NRMA tried to jump start it....it turned over but cut out in instant.
they are using you for their retirement fund i think. this must be costing you more than the car is worth. did you ever check the engine codes? because surely with this problem it would have to come up with something.
As I said b4 if I was in penrith of have the problem located in 10 mins
See this stalling problem is similar to mine. Mine dies. Starts up straight away, its only when i go to slow down or after manual shifting i put it back into D without some pedal.
Mine says its a short term fuel trim. However everything that my post in the sig says has been replaced.. So who knows aye? Its a ghost that can never be caught. However there is a nice big flat sport in any gear from idle to about 3K rpm.
Ditch your mechanic. Get a new one or take peoples advice from this forum. There are heaps of step by step guides on how to do things with pictures. All you need is common sense and the right tools.
VR and VS error codes:
VS V8 DTC/Error codes comprehensive list.
VS V6 DTC/Error codes comprehensive list.
The mechanics said to me that, any job they do to my car they wont charge me on it they spent to much time on the car and they know i spent too much money on the car....they said to me most likley the fuel tank may need replacing and they might have to replace the fuel pump and filter...that'll be pump no 3 in a matter of 1 week.