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Thread: VR Manual to Auto Conversion

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    Question VR Manual to Auto Conversion

    Hi,
    Has anyone carried out a manual to auto conversion on a V6 VR. Due to a recent minor disablity, I can't drive my manual for long periods around town now and trading my ute for an auto is not an option. I've been told that a VN-VP auto would be the easiest way to go, as I can leave the ECU and engine harness as is. The only electrical hook up that I can see would be the inhibitor switch and pwr/economy button. Any thoughts out there on this conversion? I don't mind doing the work required, just don't know if it's possible. Thanks.

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    ive seen it done the opposite way on a VR (auto 2 manual) and manual to auto on a VL, but i reackon its possible

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    from my limited knowledge, it's simple, but not as simple as you've said. VN/VP T700 are hydraulic, not electric, so no power/econ switch. pretty sure the speed sensor is different between auto/manual. if you go with the hydraulic box instead of the electric, then you'll also need to add in a kickdown cable.
    sorry, that's all I know

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    If you use the Vr to Vx auto box 4L60-E there would be more available to chose from but you would have to swap the ECU to the auto version. I could be wrong but that may involve swapping the engine harness as well (different connector between auto & manual ecu) also the extra wires for the inhibit/start circuit and reverse light. An auto ECU uses signals from the inhibit switch to vary the idle when in neutral and park as compared to idle in drive or one of the gears, if you was planning to leave the manual ECU in it may have a tendancy to stall when shifting from park/neutral to drive.
    As well you will have to swap the brake pedal box, remove the clutch setup, change the centre console to an auto gear stick.
    You may find the speed sensors are the same for both auto and manual, I did with a Pulsar N13 18le holden engine.
    I'm about to do the same thing manual -> auto but by doing a Vx Ecotec engine/auto transplant So a bit more work to do

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    I really don't have a problem going with the VN/VP auto or using the later electric box, as I have collected nearly everything I need to do either swap. Its just that comparing the VN/VP's to VR's I've owned and driven, the earlier mechanical boxes seem to shift firmer than the electric ones. And my original idea of reducing the amount of wiring changes was appealling. Also, I've never had to have any work done on the earlier boxes, however, the electric ones have given me some grief over the years. I hadn't thought of the inhibiter switch signalling the ECU for idle adjustment though. It would appear that I've got some more research to do. Thanks for all the info. Anymore ideas or opinions greatly received.

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    an easy way to do it is find someone who wants a manual conversion, get a mechanic to do the swap & it will only cost you labour charge, all the parts will be there so technically you'll have no hassles
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    but you must change over radiators as they are different, you can have an auto radiator in a manual but not a manual one in an auto
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lyoness
    an easy way to do it is find someone who wants a manual conversion, get a mechanic to do the swap & it will only cost you labour charge, all the parts will be there so technically you'll have no hassles
    Thats the best way i'd recommend to do it.
    Some people say less talk more action, i say more torque less traction.

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    Just out of interest, has anyone here done the gearbox change, and have any idea what ballpark the labour charges would be from a mechanic?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lyoness
    but you must change over radiators as they are different, you can have an auto radiator in a manual but not a manual one in an auto
    whats this theres a difference in radiators?

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    I would do the sums first.
    1] What does it cost to convert to an auto?
    2] How much to swap with someone who wants a manual and who has an auto in similar condition.
    3] Same as 2 but vehicles are not in similar condition with price adjustment.

    My thoughts for what its worth are you would be better to do a clean swap with someone then there would only be the cost of rego and insurance adjustment. This would mean that you could still go and order parts and quote the VIN getting the right parts.

    Some one asked the question whats the difference between the radiator for an auto and a manual? The difference is that a radiator for a manual does not incorporate the transmission oil heat exchanger.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Sutton

    Some one asked the question whats the difference between the radiator for an auto and a manual? The difference is that a radiator for a manual does not incorporate the transmission oil heat exchanger.
    that easy fix just put a hose there just like you got a trans cooler for auto, yeah

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    i have a VR commodore,it was an auto,i have now changed it to a manual.the only problem i have with it is the speedo wont work and not sure how to get it done..if anyone knows how to get it working plz let me know

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    got it working yay thanks

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