I recently purchased some LED blinker bulbs, I must say, they look awesome, looks good when they blink on and off instead of fade out, anyways, the blinker relay thinks there is no bulbs in the sockets because the LEDS don't draw much current, does anyone know how to trick the relay to think there is bulbs in the sockets? I think using resistors might work but would defeat the purpose of using low current bulbs, I suppose the last resort would be to buy a special relay which would detect currents as low as .02amps.
Yep, if you want the circuit to be as it was designed to be, replace the flashers - otherwise you could add heaps more LEDs and have blinkers brighter than your headlights?
Queensland - The Cruising State
You need an "electronic " flasher unit - this flashes independent of the load whereas the normal (or older style) flasher is load sensitive. With an electronic one it also will not be affected when you attach a trailer. Maybe with the Calais you have bulb failure sensing which may stuff things up and complicate matters. Luxury comes at a price.
Mate why would you be worried about such minor current draw? Add the resistors for a cheap and simple soloution.
If you're concerned about the current being too low, how is resistor going to help? Go with the electronic type of 'relay' would probably be your better option.
I've purchased a LED blinker relay from eBay, my other problem is the brake lights, hopefully the warning bulb light doesn't turn on once I chuck in the wedge leds and led tail/brake bulbs.
Originally Posted by VLishes
I hope you are aware that technically you can get done for using non ADR bulbs in all these applications?
Hopefully you won't, but you should at least be aware that you can.
Wtf, why? If it's the same brightness then what would be the problem?
Originally Posted by VLishes
Sorry mate, don't ask me why - but rules is rules. A mate, from QLD got pulled over in NSW for it - was told they are not legal in any state. Was told to fix asap. He didn't worry about it - no chance of seeing that copper again, a coupla weeks later he got pulled over on his way home from work. He was given a warning, told he'd be defected if the copper ever saw him with them still on - so he changed them.
I reckon they are great - especially for brake lights and indicators - a much more distinctive on/off.
Err fark the system, if they are the same brightness if not better then standard bulbs then fark em, goes to show how screwed the system is. lol.
What brand are the LEDs & where did you get them? A lot of LEDs are gaining ADR approval now. As far as I understand it the original problem with LED lights was the lack of a reflex reflector on the Housing. Since your vehicle will have these I cant see the problem.
Tail/brake lightsOriginally Posted by vt1538
Boot Parker Lamps
Depending whats brighter.
There is other pics in the links.
LED's musrt be legal - check out the tail lights on most trucks nowdays - mostly LED's.
In the case of the trucks and buses, the whole light assembly is designed and set up for leds - retro fitting leds to a fitting not designed with them in mind is the issue.Originally Posted by hako
Yeah I'm, in favour of the LEDs. They light up quicker than a filament globe, therefore people have more of a reaction time when it comes to breaking. I think Jaycar had an article about it in SC and they reckon that in studies people braked quicker by 1/3 of the time or something like that.
Plus, provided you don't get a surge, LEDs should last a lifetime, so less globes you gotta buy.
Well with LEDS they should last the lifetime of the car, even longer, thats if they don't get wet and your wiring is in good condition.
This following Quote is from Lightlab International and was something I found while trying to google some info on ADRs.
It should be remembered that ADR's are design rules, and so only apply to newly manufactured items and new equipment. They therefore do not relate to the condition or road-worthiness of any item.
Newly made items such as lenses and light assemblies are required to conform to the appropriate ADR, but a broken or faded lens which may well have originally conformed to an ADR, will not in its present condition conform for road-worthiness or serviceability requirements.
[B]It must be clearly noted that ADR's have no bearing upon the road-worthiness of any vehicle or component.[B]
It seems that once again it is up to the discretion of the copper who pulls you over whether he will defect you for it. I will continue to try to get some clarification on the subject but will have to wait till Monday as they dont work weekends.
hrmm, I think that if the cops pull you over because of the lights then they would be scraping the bottom of the barrell to find an excuse, I reckon it would also depend on what car you have as well, if it looks respectable and the lights look bright then you shouldn't have a problem, unless if you get pulled over by 2 dikes.
newo you missed the point entirely. The current drawn from the leds is alot less than a standard bulb. But the relay the system is setup on is load dependant, which means it relys on seeing a load there to make a nice on/off click.Originally Posted by newo
With leds there is less of a load so the relay clicks on and off too quickly. The resistor will put this load in so that the relay will operate normally.
Kopper69 - But then you need a resistor for each set of LEDs...and that means 6 resistors and a lot of stuffing around finding out the correct resistance. Also by adding a resistor you negate one of the advantages of using LEDs which is that the LED will use less power. Adding the resistance means it uses the same power as an incandescant bulb. Change the flasher unit to an electronic unit and thats all you need to do.
I thought the current was too low and you wanted to lower it again, and I'm thinking how is that gonna help?
I stand corrected. Apologies.
Thanks for your response but I would like to make the following points:
-You would only need one resistor at the output of the relay (Unless there is some weird wiring configuration - which i will confirm tomorrow after i see a wiring diagram)
-A point made popular by leds is that they have low current draw - true
But in a vechine:
1 - The blinkers and lights are mostly used only when the car is running
When the car is running it is able to supply more than enough current and even limits the amount of charging current once the battery is full. You are talking a drop in a lake when talking about a tiny bit of current compared to the capacity of the battery and the output of the cars charging circuit
To get the resistance required you would simply use a potentiometer and wind it until the blinkers blinked normally. Take the pot out of circuit and measure its resistance and use that value resistor.
You are 100% correct Kopper69, however whilst you and I both know how to measure resistance, 99% of the population do not know how.
LEDs, just like conventional globes do wear out, so really you could say "why bother"....then again you could say "nothing ventured, nothing gained".
I must admit (and it hurts) that I may try these LED lights myself on my trailer but they will be soldered in.
As you can see above you can purchase LED compatible relays. Question is, will that bulb warning light come on in the dash when all 4 bulbs for parker/stop lights be replaced with LEDS, currently because I took out the bulb for the parker light in the boot garnish the bulb light comes on in the dash, so maybe it works off the current thru a daisy chain style system and because I took the bulb out the chain is broken, so low current shouldn't be an issue. We'll see. By the way, I don't care about the low current properties, LEDS look better then normal bulbs, has a nicer "digital" O and | blink compared to normal bulbs.