Col74
VS almost stalling
Hi guys,
I have a VS calais and it's almost stalling at times when i change from D to R while turning the steering wheel, also it idles rough from time to time. I just cleaned the throtle body (black as) and cleaned the IAC valve (coated in carbon). Put the whole lot back together and attempted to adjust the base idle. The manual say's to unplug the IAC wiring and start the engine and let it idle or adjust the idle until you reach 450 - 550 rpm. Well i disconected the IAC loom, started the engine and it idles at 2000rpm! Turned the engine off reconected the loom and it idles at 850 rpm in park. So is the manual wrong (gregory's car manual)? ie: it should idle at 2000rpm? or is something else a miss under the bonet?
Thanks.
idling at 2000 rpm sounds too high.
mine idles under 1000, probably about the 850 mark like you said.
Donating Member
Book (Gregorys) says idle should be 800 in neutral/park and 700 in drive. Both +/- 50rpm.
Yeah I have found that disconnecting the idle control gives me the same outcome. Do the revs dip down when the air conditioning compressor cuts in also? The idle control is meant to maintain engine speed when load is put on the engine from steering, a/c cutting in, or going from reverse to drive etc.Originally Posted by Col74
You shouldn't ever need to adjust the base idle, it sounds like the IAC valve is buggered, or is not adjusted correctly. Maybe check the gregory's manual again, and have a look at the adjustment section on the IAC valve, from memory it has to be about 28mm from the tip to the sensor housing.
Hope this helps
Hi,
I have a VR Acclaim with 200,000k. I have the same problem stall when dropping into D or R.
Did anyone find out for sure what the problem is and perhaps a solution?
Cheers
Sounds like the IAC is blocked, very dirty, or just stuffed. I would suggest cleaning it out completely, and resetting it to the correct length, and then failing that, replace the unit completely.
Hi Guys,
Took the throttle body off and cleaned it out as well as the IAC and yes it was very dirty. You need a Torx 20 to get it off. When you clean the TB be careful with how much TB cleaner you use as too much aslo resist the urge to take off the throttle position sensor as I stuffed mine somehow and had to take everything apart and put it back together again. doh.
Two more things to try:
1) Try unplugging the ECM/PCU fuse, in the fuse compartment under the bonnet. This will cause the ECM/PCU to relearn the idle settings. Chock the back wheels and ensure park brake is applied, then idle for 2 mins in (D)rive, 2 mins in (N)eutral, 2 mins in (D)rive with Air Con on, and 2 mins in (N)eutral with Air Con on.
2) Under centre console fascia around gear shift lever there is a gear indication switch. This is the switch that is used as the saftey to only allow your car to start in (N)eutral or (P)ark. It is also the same switch that tells the PCM that the transmission is in gear and should open up the IAC a little to cope with the slightly higher load. If this switch is malfuntioning the PCM is unaware of you dropping the trans into gear and can't preempt the extra load by opening up the IAC a little and when at full lock with the steering this can cause the engine to quit. This switch can either be replaced or simply opened up and cleaned (Mine had a lot of copper corosion on it and my VR Exec was stalling all the time trying to reverse park.)
Hope this helps!
PAVTEK Race Engines
I Had the same problem, the car would start to shake hardcore. a member of this forums told me to get the gearbox serviced because he noticed the same problem and after he got the service it fixed it straight away. so the next weekend i got my gearbox serviced and the shaking has gone.
$100-150 for a service (depending where you go)
$350 for a stage two shift kit.
Jecs
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