HELP me vs v6 wont start

[bedford72]

Gday i have a 95 vs commodore v6 exsec and i was driving and seamed fine then stopped and turned off and when i got back to my car it wouldn't start it turns over but nothing and i cant hear the fuel pump when i turn the key on also there is a click click click from the intake manifold i think but it clicks more when i turn the key off,i have change the f/pump relay and done the fuel filter and the IAC valve and still nothing i also checked codes and all code 12 so that was no help so does anyone have an idea.

john (who is pulling his hair out)

[VRAddiction]

well if you can't here the fuel pump then thats probly it, get someone to bash under the fuel tank where the fuel pump is and try crank it and if it starts then the pumps screwed......hope it helps?!?!

[bedford72]

i have put another fuel pump on and still nothing,still no fuel pump sound when ignition turned on, it has me buggered,will have to do more looking, check all fuse and check the plug at the pump with a test light and see if there is power going to it.

[jairater]

hi man yea i have a VL with exactly the same problem just went round sharp corner and car dies ....no feul pump noise when ignition is on ...checked all fusese and relays gave feul tank a wack still wont go .....anyone help meee plze prity plze im stranded

[WiLo]

battery?
OP said he heard a click click click sound which is more thenb likely the starter trying to kick over but cant get enough power.

[kopper69]

Hey mate,

Well your best bet is to get a gregorys manual or sumthing similar. It will help you solve your problem, especially if your good reading circuit diagrams. I havent had this problem before, but I am good at circuit diagrams and would be able to find the fault if I had the car. Anyway there are different systems for the fuel and engine management systems for automatic/manual transmissions, but the fuel pump side of it looks the same. Basically the fuel pump has a power and ground, so its either not getting a power signal or it has a bad ground, or it could be a faulty pump. The power signal comes from the fuel pump relay, so that may be faulty. The relay receives an input from the oil pressure switch so that may be causing you a problem too. Another input is straight from the battery and goes through fuse 23, a 15A fuse. The final input to the fuel pump relay is a signal from the ECU (hope the ecu isnt the problem - $). The other side of the fuel pump relay is a ground, so there may also be a bad ground there.


I hope that helps. Your problem will be something that I have listed above. That is assuming you know what the fuel pump relay sounds like.

So fault is one of the following things.
check relay (which i think you have done)
Check fuse 23 (15A)
Oil pressure switch is faulty
ECU faulty
Pump faulty
Broken wire or loose connection

If you are handy with a multimeter and have a manual you should be able to trace it down. Otherwise do what you can, and if it still doesnt go send her to the repair shop.

[bedford72]

Cheers kopper i have done the fuel pump and also the filter and i have done the IAC and did the oil pressure switch so i did the oil and oil filter and did the fuel pump relay well i hope it was the fuel pump relay, so i have bought a mullti meter and will start at the fuel pump and follow the wires and check my conections and have also bought contact cleaner so they will be clean,so thanks again kopper and will update when i find the problem so if it happens to anyone else they know.

[digisol]

pump can be tested with an educated thumb and an undone fuel line with ignition on, too easy.

Battery can have 12v but still be very stuffed, my neighbour had a NN ute with a battery reading 12.56v, mega problems, replaced battery all was fine.

Kinda sounds like battery or fuel supply side, or a stuffed starter motor solenoid ? start there, but get comfortable.

[volatile_explosivo]

I have the same problem just today ...Did you fix the problem, what was it???

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ost351411:cry:

[kopper69]

Checking a battery is actually not as easy as most people might think. It can be quite deceiving. When you test a battery you should test it under two conditions. With and without load. That means measure the batteries voltage, say it was sitting at 12.56V. Thats great, 12V battery. Now try and start the car (thats putting load on the battery) and see what the battery does. A good battery will drop maybe to 12V. A bad battery will drop right off. Like 6V or something like that. This procedure is true for any type of battery.

[digisol]

The 12.56 I mentioned refused to turn over the engine one revolution before even the dash lights went out, mine on the same day after sitting for 4 days read 12.30 but it spun over as it should.

The stuffed one was due to a RS voltage regulator and it had no water left in the battery, while running mine read 14.4V, the VN stuffed battery read 18.9 V running.

Too easy to fix that one.

[bedford72]

Gday again have a test light and multi meter and a workshop manual and i am following what is says but it says a the ALDL earth the violet wire but there is not violet wire which should be for the fuel pump as at the fuel pump there is a violet wire and an orange wire with power,the places i have checked is the one under the steering wheel and there is one beside the glove box one has about 16 pin hole and the other is about 8 i think there are bigger and would take a spade terminal so does anyone have an idea how i can find the right wires.
cheers