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Thread: WTF is wrong with my CAR !!!!!!!

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    Default WTF is wrong with my CAR !!!!!!!

    my car has been aight but since i took it out of repairs after 2 weeks its hasnt been same since when idling at lights it just stalls or if my revs drop below 1000 it struggles and then stalls every time it stalls and then i start it up again it struggles and either stalls again or chuggs and pops then stalls i was thinkn it might be injectors i used injector cleaner workd 4 bout a week fine then its started up again -----could it be my spark plugs injectors vacum seal fuel pump or filter or CAS--- i have changed my leads not the problem i havnt done ecu test but any1 have a slight clue wat it could or sounds 2 be be4 i do anything
    cheers

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    shumway is offline Son of satan
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    id try cas befoe anything else,those simptons are what i had 2 weeks ago before the cas finaaly shat its self not fun when your in peak hour on a rainny day

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    Not_An_Abba_Fan is offline Exhaust Guru
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    When it was having the repairs done, was the battery disconnected? If so, just drive it around for a while, it needs to relearn it's idle speed. Or you can reset it yourself by turning the key to the on position, select each gear for about 10 seconds (auto only), put it back into park, turn off. Start car and rev to about 1500rpm for 10 seconds, turn off. This should reset the idle.

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    Sounds like it could have something to do with fuel. Maybe start with fuel filter.

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    i don no where 2 start my guess is fuel pump or injectors wats funny is 2 of my other mates have had the same problem in the past 2 weeks now "shumay" sasy he had same problem in last 2 weeks aswel
    im not guessin dodgy petrol 4 mine cos it started like a day after i took out from the repairs and my mates hadnt refilled sooooo... its a bit weird i don no

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    i tried wat u said not an abba fan it feels a lil smoother on idling but we will c if it has same problems!

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    VR Commodore rough idling when warm, stalls now and then, flat spot when stabbing the accelerator, no computer diagnosis reading...... Unbolt the alternator, and unscrew and change the $5.00 temperature sensor which I found myself by chance.

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    AttaBoy is offline WTF?!?!
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    Got results codes are 41,42,47,49 sum of them might be my battery though not 2 sure as its full of acid and **** so il clean it and check it again 2moz


    can anyone let me no wat the codes mean VR-calais_series 1
    41,42,47,49

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    Hi!

    VR - VS Faults should help you out with error codes.

    I've had issues with my CAS, spark plugs and leads previously. What I've done in the past to figure out where the problem lies is I start her up and disconnect and reconnect lead by lead.

    If I notice a difference in idling RPM when I've disconnected a lead, there lies your problem. It could either be the lead or the spark plug, or coil pack.

    In my experience, I've had more issues with leads than anything else, but next to that is the coil pack. FYI, the coil pack bolts are 5.5mm in size.

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    Code 41 - Electronic Spark Timing Circuit (EST)
    Code 42 - Ignition Bypass Circuit Fault
    Code 47 - 18x Reference Signal Missing
    Code 49 - Cam / Crank Shaft Signal Intermittent

    First thing to do would be to clear the codes by removing the 20A engine fuse near the battery for 10 seconds. Take the car driving and the next time it stalls, grab your trusty paper clip and check error codes. Hopefully there will only be one or two. Having four makes it a bit more difficult to find, as they are all likely caused by the one faulty part.

    I would definitely start by taking the connector off the side of the DFI module and giving it a clean with contact cleaner. It takes 5 seconds and costs nothing.

    You will then have to start replacing parts in a process of elemination.

    Start with crank angle sensor (CAS). About $150 for parts and labor. 47 always comes up when the CAS is faulty, and the CAS is a known culprit. Your calais is a V6?

    Otherwise, the parts of the system assosiated with those error codes are:

    CAS
    DFI module
    Connector on the side of DFI module (take it off and give it a clean)
    Coil packs (You can check these by using a multimeter)
    ECU (Hopefully not, expensive, they are pretty reliable)

    You got that 49, so you CAM sensor could be playing up too.

    Check wiring and connectors on the CAM and CAS too.

    Get the CAS done, wait and see if it still fails. If it does, replace the DFI module. If you want to save a bit, pick one up from the wreakers. Only takes a couple of minutes to remove. You might as well take the coil packs if you go with that option.

    As for your battery, first up, it is a lead acid battery. It must always be full of acid to work. If it is over 2 years old, replace it. Make sure its clean and the terminals on the battery are nice and tight, but I dont think it is going to be the problem in your case.

    Good luck

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    hahaha after doin and standy last night my car seems 2 be running smooth no rough idle nuthing
    hmmmm have 2 wait and c

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    my car seems 2 be running better now the rough idle has dissapeared and it only stalls evry now and then but starts up straight away no coughing or splattering either i got no idea wats rong get my mate from uni 2 look at it on monday cheers

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    how much will a mechanic charge 2 change that??
    and is it a common problem for tha symptons both me n joe have?

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    Quote Originally Posted by shumway View Post
    other wise your prob could just be its a vr
    my vr would take ur vs anyday mate hahah yeh well i dont no wats wrong with it every day it seems 2 get better haha so f.ukd if i no

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    Quote Originally Posted by T-ROY View Post
    how much will a mechanic charge 2 change that??
    and is it a common problem for tha symptons both me n joe have?
    About $50 for parts, $100 for labor. Probably the most common problem on the VR/VS, that gets brought up on here anyway.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joey_18 View Post
    my vr would take ur vs anyday mate hahah yeh well i dont no wats wrong with it every day it seems 2 get better haha so f.ukd if i no
    CAS will do that. It will go away for a little while, then come back, then go away, then just fail. And it will NOT start. Then it will be getting towed, so you have to hope its not far to the mechanics. Cost of getting it towed to mechanics will likely double the cost of the fix. Just go and get it done.

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    u say its a common problem for VR/VS i got a VP still common in them or not? cause myne doesnt stall like joes, it just splatters n has no go

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