Cranking but Not Firing
My 97 VS has got 175 xxx k's on it, i filled up before i left for a long drive last night from sydney to wollongong (1hr 30mins) and then back again with no problems what so ever with half a tank left
This morning i had to drive to work, i cranked the engine but it would not fire at all and i noticed that the fuel pump was'nt making a whirring noise when the ignition was on reds.
so before i go changing the fuel pump, is there anything i should thoroughly check??
keeping in mind that i have checked:
-Fuses
-Relays
-Gave the tank a bit of a beating
Exhaust Guru
Make sure you have power to your pump, if you have, it's a fair bet that the pump is kangaroo edward.
The trusty gregorys will run you through a full check of every component leading to the pump, there are a few, but I would be checking at power to the pump first as it is likely that is your problem. A quick way to test would be to give the bottom of the fuel tank a couple of good whacks with your hand right in the middle. Try and start the car. If fuel pump works this time your pump is buggered.
Otherwise if you have a mutlimeter connect it to the larger connector and get someone to turn the ignition, not all the way, the click before starting. The fuel pump should prime during this stage. If you see 12V there, pump is buggered. If not fault is somewhere before and the gregorys would be the place to go.
it sounds like the pump has had it but also check the CAS (Crank angle sensor) near the harmonic balancer this is also a common problem with it not starting
Donating Member
Had the same problem with my car 6 months ago. It turned out the pump was stuffed and after replacing it, it fired right up.
Last edited by dufus; 28-11-2007 at 07:39 PM. Reason: grammer
I had a similar problem just this morning. Although the car was running fine for about 5 minutes up the road, then suddenly stalled. Tried restarting, giving it 30 mins, restart....nothing. RACV guy said it could be a split hose in the fuel tank. Got it towed to my mechanic, who ended up replacing the DFI module & the 3 coilpacks. Runs smooth as now, as you`d hope for $400.
Donating Member
I'd first check to see if there is spark - pull a lead off and stick an old plug in it, earth the plug and get someone to crank it over - if there is no spark then it ain't the fuel pump.
Another check method is to remove or loosen either the fuel delivery or return hoses - if fuel spurts out the pump is OK (easy to do at the filter)
Good Luck.
Thanx for the help lads, came up with a conclusion, busted fuel pump.
Had the NRMA come over for a second opinion:
-Electrics were fine
-Fuse and Realy were fine
-Spark was fine (sprayed some 'start ya bastered' in the inlet)
-Gave the tank a few whacks whilst cranking the engine, but no go.
so yeah looks im gunna be getting it towed to the mechanics sometime, i'd fix it myself but i dont have that much time on my hands, plus i got towbar in the way so that can make things real difficult.
How much have people paid for a new fuel pump these days? supply and fit??
About $200 to $250 to supply and fit fuel pump. My last pump died after running a couple of tanks of that alcohol blended fuel...won't touch the stuff now just in case.
Donating Member
That sounds about right, mine cost $200 fitted.Originally Posted by DJ Ice
Towbar doesnt make it any more difficult, but its not the nicest job. If you got the cash leave it for someone else and save yourself the hassles.
If i had the time, i would've removed the towbar and dropped the tank to make the job just a lil easier, but the bolts that hold the towbar that are in the boot are not easy to get to because of my boot install.
bu yeah anyways, ive booked it in for 2moro morning, i got quoted $275 supply and fit from an NRMA recommended repairer, they have the best rep around my area.
going to have the tilt tray pick it up 2moro at 9am and i'll fill you's in when i get it back.
A new project attack
mine sometimes is cranking but not firing when warm but secon turn of key all good...
200,xxx on clock
A new project attack
doesn't always do it when warm...this morning went to start and just kept on cranking and cranking...waited a few seconds and second turn of key all good...Maybe my pump aswell is cactus...Blocked strainer maybe?
Donating Member
Not the keyhead not making proper contact?
I dropped the tank without touching the towbar. And dropping the tank isnt always necessary. Just for info though, I understand and support your method. Wavez, as hako said. Probably not fuel pump related.
Donating Member
Heavy duty towbars extend to in front of the fuel tank behind the rear seat...light duty ones (under 1200KG) do not so it depends on why type of towbar you have fitted.
Exhaust Guru
Also the brand, over here we have a manufacturer that make a 1200kg towbar that has a brace that extends to the front of the tank.
Yeah, with the tow bar i got, it goes under and extends to the front of the tank, it pretty much protects the tank from, bottoming out, big speed humps and steep driveways.
Picked up the VS yesterday and now it starts everytime =D
Should i just stick to one petrol servo? and stick to 1 kind of fuel?
plus, mixing regular and premium does no good to the car right?
Donating Member
The best way of avoiding fuel contamination is to buy fuel from a large service station that sells lots of fuel and has a high turnover. This means the fuel is always fresh. Smaller stations (not fuel company owned) sometimes buy fuel from "jobbers" who run private tankers....this fuel can sometimes be old or stale or otherwise contaminated.
You can mix any fuel you like - the Ecotec engine which has knock sensors will adjust ignition timing etc to suit whatever fuel you use or mix.
Donating Member
Ive never had a problem and i mix regular and premium all the time, and I rarely go to the same petrol station twice in a row but i always make sure that i go to a large petrol station such as BP or Shell because i can trust their fuel alot more than the smaller petrol stations, especially given that i live in the country.
whats the go with this E10 fuel?
i just noticed the other day at my local Caltex servo.
Donating Member
E10 Fuel is unleaded petrol containing 10% ethanol
Exhaust Guru
Ethanol deterioates rubber, and has a tendancy to flush out all the crap too. But a 10% mix won't cause any problems that weren't already there. Later model cars are manufactured with ethanol friendly components, so a higher ethanol ratio will be coming down the track.
A new project attack
If that is what it is how can it still crank and crank and crank? Got a new key head from Holden awhile about a year ago anyway...
It seems like there is no fuel pump relay sometimes... like it just keeps on cranking...like what a CAS would do if its cactus...but don't mention that one because it new along with most other things fuel reg, injectors, oil pressure and so on...and so on...
Fuel pump I'm thinking...could it be blocked a little somehow? Strainer?
Takes about 1-2 secs to prime but it's not like I put my head out the window every time to hear it...Checked fuel pressure awhile ago and it seemed fine... Maybe I will check it again...
Posting Permissions
LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks
Reply With Quote