Buick and Ecotec V6 Performance Upgrades

[padrickz88]

Alsp, not really a performance mod (well kind of) but more reliability mod..... remove the balance shaft, chain tensioner and throw in a double row awesome!

[justbad4you]

alls good your here now lol take a seat and settle in...welcome

absolutely sin-bloody-sational.

I have been looking to undertstand the SuperCharger vs TurboCharger setups but every1 'knowledgeable' really didnt have a clue!
cheers and thanks again (another feature of my VS baby I am now understanding as more than 'its there')

Footnote to self: WHY DIDNT YOU FIND THIS SITE AGES AGO (kick to the head)

[vsv6dude]

Good intention with the thread but it stop queries being raised to get others experience.

[buts_vr]

Great info bro that really helps me out could not get that info anywhere ells Mean

[niterider]

no its not a irs

[michael.john.richards]

Alright, this basic guide will hopefully help those of you looking to get a bit more power out of your VR or VS Commodores and stop the hundreds of threads on things like Cat Back Exhausts and Cold Air Intakes. I am sure that I have made some mistakes and will work to get rid of them over the next day or two, so if you notice any mistakes, can you please tell me. Also if I have used a picture of you car as an example and you would like it removed, please PM me and I will remove it strait away. I hope this is helpful.

Buick and Ecotec V6 Performance Modifications:

Intake:

Cold air intake (CAI):

A cold air intake is used to increase the power of you engine by delivering larger amounts of cool air to the engine, compared to the stock intake. By increasing the amount of cool air making it to your engine, the amount of oxygen making it to the engine is increased, so the amount of fuel burnt can be increased, resulting in an increase in the performance of your engine. A high flow panel filter is recommended when running a cold air intake.

Ready to install Cold Air Intake options:

Holden Supercharged VS Cold Air Intake:
Intake Assembly Part Number - GM-92053315
Intake to Air Box Piping Part Number - GM-92053314
Bottom of Air Box to suit Part Number - GM-92053006
Price - Intake Assembly and Intake to assembly Piping costs $55 from Holden Spare Parts. Bottom of Air Box (Not Necessary for installation) cost $35 from Holden Spare Parts.

SS Inductions Big Mouth Cold Air Intake Kit:
Part Number - CAI002
Price - $262 from ModYourCar.com - Apexi, Greddy, Hybrid, Autometer, Whiteline, Buddy Club, Sparco, MOMO, TEIN, Arias, Eagle, MSD and hundreds more brands available!


Holden Supercharged VS Cold Air intake


SS Inductions Big Mouth Cold Air Intake

Holden Supercharged VS Cold Air intake installed on a VS Commodore

How to install Holden Supercharged VS Cold Air Intake (Similar process for SS Inductions CAI):
Author – jafo
Link - http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ake-vs-v6.html

The two Cold Air Intakes shown above are not the only options when it comes to cold air intakes. You can successfully construct your own cold air intake using products that can be found around your house such as PVC piping.

The following are the characteristics possessed by an effective home made cold intake:

• A large opening allowing for maximum air intake
• The air source is as cool as possible, and the piping is as far away from any sources of heat as possible, such as exhaust components and the engine
• The material used to construct the cold air intake is smooth on the inside to prevent any resistance on the air flow
• There is adequate air filtration of the air, so that no impurities make it to the engine
• The cold air intake is not going to allow water to make it to the engine in the event of rain or water on the road.

Short Ram Air Intake:

A Short Ram Intake is another option when it comes to improving the intake or your engine. A Short Ram Intake consists of a metal or plastic pipe attached to the throttle body, with a pod filter on the end. A Short Ram Air intake will slightly increase the performance of your engine; however the increase in performance is less than that of a cold air intake. The problem with Short Ram Intake’s is that the air passing through the intake is often hot, because the Short Ram Intake is getting its air from in the engine bay, which has been heated by the engine. However the problem of hot air can be solved by using some form of a heat shield and collecting the air from a cool air source, such as behind the headlight.

Short Ram Air Intake Options:

A common Short Ram Air Intake in VR and VS commodores is made by replacing the standard air box with a Pod Filter. These Pod Filters come in a wide range of different colours and designs and are available from most automotive stores. See the High Flow Air Filters for prices and part numbers of common pod filters.


Short Ram Intake on a VR Commodore

With a small amount of modification, you can put a pod filter into your standard air box and run a Holden Cold Air Intake. This modification has exactly the same affect as running a Cold Air Intake with a high flow panel filter, but it is much cheaper.

How to fit a Pod Filter with a Cold Air intake:
Author - DannyboyDS
Link - http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...cai-vr-vs.html

High Flow Air Filters:

In order for you engine to run properly, it requires a constant flow of air that is free of impurities. The job of an air filter is to filter the incoming air and remove any unwanted impurities such as dirt and moisture. The standard paper air filter used in VR and VS commodores while effective at removing the unwanted impurities, can become restrictive, therefore causing the engine to not run at its best. A high flow air filter overcomes this restrictiveness, achieving an almost unrestricted air flow, while at the same time filtering all of the contaminates out of the air. By having an air flow that is almost unrestricted, the velocity of the air entering the engine is greater and so is the amount of air entering the engine, therefore the performance of your engine is increased along with your fuel economy.


Lukey High Flow Panel Filter


K&N High Flow Panel Filter


K&N Range of Pod Filters

Commonly Available Panel Filters:

K&N Commodore, Calais VN-VS 3.8L V6 88-97 Panel Filter:
Part Number - KN-33-2031-2
Price - $79 from Sorijen eBay store

Lukey Air Filter Commodore VN/VP/VR/VS:
Part Number - LAF001
Price - $70 from Sprint Auto Parts

K&N Recharger Filter Care Service Kit:
Part Number - KN-99-5050
Price - $26 from ModYourCar.com

K&N Recharger Filter Care Service Kit (Aerosol):
Part Number - KN-99-5000
Price - $41 from ModYourCar.com

If you cannot afford the cost of purchasing a high flow panel filter or would just prefer to make you own, you can easily make your own with a bit of time and patience by following the link below.

Making a High Flow Panel Filter:
Author – Frd-thmsn
Link - http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...-yourself.html

Commonly Available Pod Filters:

K&N Universal Inverted Top 3-Inch Air Filter:
Part Number - RR-3003
Price - $104

A Racing 3–Inch Power Stack Filter:
Part Number – AAA-WS002
Price – $51 from ModYourCar.com

NOS 3-Inch Pod Filter:
Part Number - UNKNOWN
Price - $30 from Autopro

K&N Recharger Filter Care Service Kit:
Part Number - KN-99-5050
Price - $26 from ModYourCar.com

K&N Recharger Filter Care Service Kit (Aerosol):
Part Number - KN-99-5000
Price - $41 from ModYourCar.com

* Tip – Shop around when buying pod filters, they are often on sale and can be brought for less than $30

Bellmouth Removal (VR Commodore Only):

In 1988 after the introduction of the series one VN Commodore (The first Commodore to be fitted with the 3.8L Buick Engine), a number of owners complained about excessive wheel spin and a very rough idle, Holden researchers came to the conclusion that this was because the engine was making a little to much power. Because of these issues with the series one VN engine, the series two VN was released with a plastic Bellmouth, along with other changes. The addition of the Bellmouth was successful at improving the idle quality of the engine and providing a much smoother, more controllable power delivery. This change is really good for those who just want a car to get from A to B without wanting any extra power, but if you are on the quest for extra power this modification is not so good. A lot of owners of Series Two VN Commodores up to Series Two VR Commodores have found that by removing the Bellmouth, the engine has more power down low and an increased throttle response. Removing the Bellmouth is extremely easy and can be done in next to no time by following the link below.


The Bellmouth

How to Remove the Bellmouth:
Author - Airstrike
Link - VN Series 2 - VR Bellmouth


Exhaust:

Cat Back Exhaust System:

A “Cat Back” Exhaust is one of the most common performance modifications made to VR and VS Commodores. A Cat Back Exhaust is the section of exhaust from the outlet of the catalytic converter to the atmosphere and houses the vehicles mufflers. Cat Back Exhausts are a common performance modification, because a performance Cat Back Exhaust creates less back pressure than the stock system. Good Cat Back Exhausts are mandrel bent, and contain a single glasspack muffler (or other high flow muffler) and possibly a resonator (affects the sound of the exhaust). By allowing the engine to breathe better, a catback exhaust increases the engines performance.

There are a wide variety of bolt on Cat Back Exhaust Systems available to suit VR and VS Commodores. A 2 ½ inch system is recommended for naturally aspirated vehicles with less than 150 rwkw, after which time a 3 inch cat back system is recommended. There are a number of different bolt on Cat Back Exhaust Systems available for VR and VS commodores such as Redback and Lukey systems. The average prices for a Cat Back Exhaust without a resonator are listed below; the price of your catback will depend on your choice of mufflers, tips and whether or not you are getting a resonator.

VR Live Axel Price - $200 to $250
VR Independent Rear Suspension (IRS) Price - $250 to $300
VS Live Axel Price - $200 to $250
VS Independent Rear Suspension (IRS) Price - $250 to $300


Cat Back Exhaust System

Extractors / Headers:

The stock exhaust manifolds in VR and VS Commodores are designed to save money on the cost of materials, take up the smallest space possible and most of all have the lowest production cost. The design of the stock headers, while meeting these criteria, do not result in the most efficient emission of exhaust gasses from the engine. The exhaust gasses leave the cylinders at different times, and the exhaust gasses from one cylinder may not have vacated the header before another cylinders exhaust enters the header, so the first exhaust creates back pressure in the header which becomes a restriction on the engine.

An Extractor or Performance Header is a header designed for maximum performance. During the design process of a header, the designers concentrate on the flow of exhaust gasses through the extractor, not the cost or size, and as a result a header is produced that is better at removing exhaust gasses from the engine. The extractors used in VR and VS commodore are constructed from steel or stainless steel tubing and have a diameter of around 38 mm. Because these extractors are specifically designed for exhaust flow, the exhaust gasses are encouraged to flow through the extractor and out the exhaust, not back toward the cylinder like in a stock header, therefore reducing back pressure.

Commonly available extractors (All Prices Supply Only):

HM Headers Stainless Steel Header (VR Commodore):
Part Number - HM77SS
Recommended Retail Price - $535.41

HM Headers Stainless Steel Header (VS Commodore):
Part Number - HM99SS
Recommended retail Price - $554.30

Pacemaker Headers (VR Commodore):
Part Number - PH 5029
Price - $450 to $650 depending on location

Pacemaker Headers (VS Commodore):
Part Number - PH 5039
Price: - $450 to $650 depending on location


Extractors / Performance Headers


Automatic Transmission:

Shift Kit:

An Automatic Transmission Shift Kit is a modified valve body that is housed inside the transmission of your Commodore. The shift kit is a hydraulic product that improves your shifting by making the transmission shift much harder and quicker, therefore improving the performance of your car.
There are many different automatic transmission shift kits available on the market. Automatic transmission shift kits are normally separated into stages. Listed below is a list of the different available shift kits and what they include/involve.

Stage 0.5 Shift Kit:
What it involves - A Stage 0.5 shift kit involves a pressure control modification and the installation of a resistor in the path of the signal of the pressure control switch.
Price - $100 to $150 fully installed

Stage 1 Shift Kit:
What it involves – A Stage 1 Shift Kit involves an adjustment in the line pressure and the installation of a boost valve.
Price - $150 to $250 fully installed

Stage 1.5 Shift Kit:
What it involves – A Stage 1.5 Shift Kit involves the installation of a boost valve and boost valve spring, the installation of a drilled valve body plate, the installation of a line pressure spring and accumulator spring upgrades.
Price - $250 to $350 fully installed

Stage 2 Shift Kit:
What it involves – A Stage 2 Shift Kit involves the installation of a new boost valve and boost valve spring, the installation of a new drilled valve body plate, the installation of a new line pressure spring, the installation of new accumulator springs, the installation of a new 1-2 Shift valve, the installation of a new actuator valve spring, the installation of a new cut back valve spring, and many more small modifications to help improve performance of the transmission.
Price - $400 to $700 fully installed

Performance Shift Module:

What does it do - A performance shift module is a module which connects to your cars transmission control module and changes the way that your transmission shifts between gears. There are two different types of performance shift modules available on the market for VR and VS commodores; they are single and two stage modules. A single stage module is controlled by a switch in the cars cabin, when this switch is engaged; the transmission shifts are firmer than when the switch is disengaged. A two stage module much like a single stage module is controlled by a switch in the cabin, however a two stage module has two different firmness settings. The firmness of the shifts in the single and two stage modules are adjustable and can be adjusted to suit your driving style or needs and when the switch is disengaged, the transmission shifts as if the module was never installed.

How does it work – The performance shift module alters the signal that the transmission control unit sends to the transmission to control the transmission line pressure, therefore altering the line pressure. By increasing your transmission line pressure, the transmission shifts harder between gears, reducing the heat generated from the clutches and bands in the transmission and increasing transmission lift. As well as reducing heat in the transmission and increasing transmission lift, the shift module reduces transmission wear.


Performance Shift Module

Average Prices for Performance Shift Modules:

Single Stage Performance Shift Module:
Price – Approximately $80

Two Stage Performance Shift Module:
Price – Approximately $120

removed mr bell mouth, as mentioned a little too snappy for mum's shopper, and maybe a little shaky at cold with sudden flip of the fuel pedal.....my pod is mounted directly onto the throttle body, no pipes, no leaks, being a VP with a VR engine, over pits as no maf sensor etc provisioned for. HAS ANYONE FITTED 1.9 to 1 high ratio rockers to suit....wait for it, ( some say this engine is a figment of my imagination) a 1995 VR originally supercharged engine, alas when i bought it, no sc. It has its eight bolt to flywheel, roller rockers OEM, nothing like the normal series II, which I have on good authority from one of the advertizers on this site was a rare model shift prior to the ecotec engine. here be my query, can i assume that any engine with series II cast on block, with the six port plenum manifold, not the one with the engine cc on the manifold is an ecotec? as I assumed they has alloy, mortgage a kidney, alloy heads?/? I got the VR because as far as i knew at the time, the VR was the last of the good old cast steel heads?....thankyou to anyone one who can determine this for me.........if i am in the wrong spot, or wrong forum, forgive my noobyness, should i bother working the suspect series II eco, which is sitting lonely in my carport, or just high ratio the rockers on miss reliable i have now??? pushing her to the limits gets me 117 kmph in second from a T5 WC Tremec

[michael.john.richards]

might take up that bell mouth idea.. although i did hear from other ppl that it didnt do anything and just made it sound rough.

a little rough yes, just took it out, but not missing rough, throaty v eight running on seven cyls

[savage1987]

removed mr bell mouth, as mentioned a little too snappy for mum's shopper, and maybe a little shaky at cold with sudden flip of the fuel pedal.....my pod is mounted directly onto the throttle body, no pipes, no leaks, being a VP with a VR engine, over pits as no maf sensor etc provisioned for. HAS ANYONE FITTED 1.9 to 1 high ratio rockers to suit....wait for it, ( some say this engine is a figment of my imagination) a 1995 VR originally supercharged engine, alas when i bought it, no sc. It has its eight bolt to flywheel, roller rockers OEM, nothing like the normal series II, which I have on good authority from one of the advertizers on this site was a rare model shift prior to the ecotec engine. here be my query, can i assume that any engine with series II cast on block, with the six port plenum manifold, not the one with the engine cc on the manifold is an ecotec? as I assumed they has alloy, mortgage a kidney, alloy heads?/? I got the VR because as far as i knew at the time, the VR was the last of the good old cast steel heads?....thankyou to anyone one who can determine this for me.........if i am in the wrong spot, or wrong forum, forgive my noobyness, should i bother working the suspect series II eco, which is sitting lonely in my carport, or just high ratio the rockers on miss reliable i have now??? pushing her to the limits gets me 117 kmph in second from a T5 WC Tremec

Say all that again in English please.


I am fairly sure that Ecotecs have cast iron heads, not alloy. Also interested in your apparently factory supercharged VR - I've never heard of one.


Oh and M.J.R., don't kid yourself. Removing a bellmouth does not make your six banger sound like a V8 running on 7.

[Jacko78]

would mounting a pod filter, after cutting a hole in the bonnet and covering with a scoop, make a difference? I have a "short ram" set up at the mo.

[savage1987]

Are you serious

It's a V6!! They go alright with intake, exhaust and a mail order tune. That, in my opinion, is where the value for money ends on an N/A 3800.

When it comes to making power, either boost it or go home.

[Jacko78]

Just asking mate.
removed the bell mouth and put in a stage 3 memcal as well. Seems to be running quite nicely now.

[savage1987]

Just asking mate.
removed the bell mouth and put in a stage 3 memcal as well. Seems to be running quite nicely now.

Sorry, wasn't being an arse, just cutting holes in bonnets for a six pot is fairly extreme and some people would probably laugh at you


No such thing as a stage 3 memcal that I'm aware of ... things for cars should never come in stages. Sounds wanky, and doesn't actually tell you anything about the part you're buying

Plenty of knowledgeable tuners on this forum capable of doing an exchange memcal much better than a lot of the ebay ones

[Jxw]

blame cam manufacturers for things being classed as "stage" guess it was to confusing for people classing them as stock, mild and race

[wildwilly]

hey guys i'm thinking of taking the bellmouth out my buick v6, but i've read it can lean out 2 of the cylinders and kill the engine but not sure wether to believe that or not. is there anyone here that's had it out for a long time now that can report on this?
I'm guessing it cant be that much of a problem if they weren't originally fitted but i don't wanna risk breaking the engine for something that may or may not make a difference. thanks
Will

[savage1987]

Taking it out is fine, mine did over 500,000km without one and was still perfect when I pulled it apart.

Take it out, see if you like it. If not, put it back. I ended up putting one in to my s1 for a smoother engine.

[wildwilly]

wow, thanks savage. nice to hear you got so much use out of it (bellmouth or not)

[savage1987]

Yeah they are great motors when you treat them right, oil change every 5000km and it'll last you forever

[Jacko78]

pulled mine out and no problems that I can see/hear. May idle a little rough but not really noticable

[94VRcommyute]

Hi, great post.
Is it just me, or do the stock 3800 Buicks seem to go harder than the Ecotecs? eventhough there is a pretty big power difference.

[aaronevolution]

Hi, great post.
Is it just me, or do the stock 3800 Buicks seem to go harder than the Ecotecs? eventhough there is a pretty big power difference.

I still reckon my VR went better than my VY.

[savage1987]

Hi, great post.
Is it just me, or do the stock 3800 Buicks seem to go harder than the Ecotecs? eventhough there is a pretty big power difference.

Yes, horsepower isn't everything, and gross vehicle weight comes into play as well.

[GM96VS]

Has anyone here locked/welded a VS single spinner? What technique did you use? Just welds or did you weld plate or rods in there too?

[wraith]

Has anyone here locked/welded a VS single spinner? What technique did you use? Just welds or did you weld plate or rods in there too?

Not sure if serious.... Minispools are what $90 bucks on ebay. Only tossers weld diffs.

[GM96VS]

its for my paddock basher, why spend money when I already own a mig.

[Jacko78]

I swapped out my standard trottle body for a \70mm bored out one from a mates VR and now it idles at about 1500rpm and seems to not want to change gear? Any help? The guys at Pitstop said it was the Throttle position sensor????