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Handbrake Adjustment for Vs Commodore

batesey323

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Hey everyone, I was wondering how do i adjust the handbrake in the Vs commodore. because it has to be pulled up a fair way. Thanks
 

Nanos

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If you have alook underthe car you will see the handbrake cable( easy to follow from the rear wheels back)

Follow the cable from one side till you see where it meeets up with the other side in Y type formation (meets with other side a cable from handbrake lever).

At this point you will see a adjuster (think its a 10mm spanner JOb from memory)

If you turn this bolt one way it will tighten the cable and turning the opposite way will loosen the cable.

This is where you do the adjusting from. Just give it a few turns then check handbrake lever. And if you need more turn it some more. I think from memory 3-5 clicks is what they check for when doing a roadworthy.
 

vt_ss_5l

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Gday Mate you will need a 13mm Spanner and get under the car Look at the cable in the Middle and u will see where to adjust there will be 2 bolts loosen off the first one and tighten up the other untill you can only pull the handbrake lever up about 4 or 5 clicks then Nip up the first bolt that you loosend Hope this helps G/L !!
 
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Hey everyone, I was wondering how do i adjust the handbrake in the Vs commodore. because it has to be pulled up a fair way. Thanks
you need a tool, there are two threads one left and one right, ( was my job) pain in bum, if you like will do, but suggest you buy new pads, Bendix CT Ceramics, cost a bit more, dont leave dust on $1000.00 wheels, dont squeel, chamfered edges, no settling in, jump in pump up, quick bleed to get rid of the river mud, the black death as you may have seen, if rear disks first... If shoes and drums, they only go 1 size over by law now, the rears I will do at home for $50.00 if disks, you make a boo boo, you have caliper parts evry frigging where, if drums, $20.00, the tool is about $45.00, but i should still have mine from doing a XF rear disker falcan, your call, emails only. I'm free daily friday and Saturday, 8am to 10pm, have work lighjts for those who work, me pensioned off.

or [email protected] never had a job come back, just smiles, building a chev in laundry, wannabe's dont spend that sort of money trying to build an engine, either they can, or CANT!!!!!ok email me if you still need it done, i get trade at either repco kelmscott or autoone cannington


[email protected]
 
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Gday Mate you will need a 13mm Spanner and get under the car Look at the cable in the Middle and u will see where to adjust there will be 2 bolts loosen off the first one and tighten up the other untill you can only pull the handbrake lever up about 4 or 5 clicks then Nip up the first bolt that you loosend Hope this helps G/L !!
yes 99% right, back off rear nut, dab of anti sieze, you will thank your self later, pull on handrake 3 clicks, do up front nut untill cables tight and brakes lock, i say this because if by yourself cant be in cr and under at the same time, soryy dude wasnt being smart, just found it made life so easy, jump out check travel on lever, give a damn hard yank to settle the swivly arm( now that was high tech) and test feel, if close again 2-5 clicks, your choice and preference, but cops at pits want 3-5, no more. Didnt mean to seem a s smart arse, was my job, I moved, not sacked. to do it perfect, the cables should be backed off, and the wheel calipers adjusted first, if new pads fitted, other wise you just winding the piston further and further in, and when they pop, over adjusted, i kinda dont wanna know, as its a take off, reset, hope your "o" ring aint split etc, please to the gentleman before, what you suggested is right 99% of the time, but if the pads worn so low the right hand ajax thread is out of limits, out comes the piston, fluid and all.

Williams brake and clutch, GERO
 
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what is the handbrake shoes part number? i think mine are buggered
mr beef, should be same as vn-vs disk rear db 1086 I think, 100% As book says at auto one Cannington, he has been great to me, , like i mentioned Bendix CT Ceramic, the ducks nuts, if they dont Repco will, but ask for trade, they mostly give it, they are about $55-00 to $65-00 for dustless, quiet, no bedding in, and stop/pull up like you left seat belt off,( after a 100k's or so of course) I have them on my VP, dont buy anything else, the $12.50 specials are usually illegal as asbestos in them, if i helped, goodo, if not your mate might recomend them instead. fronts are db 1085 and the rears are db 1086, the ct general will be fine for you, but they go from there to full on racing,
i love em, these part numbers are from vn i think to VX And if luck at the store you cant mention souper cheep, you can sometimes find on special, Bendix are Bendix, dont matter who sells them, they stop you, and well, i can do em, like i said, so email me if you do, or you up for about $130.00 inc std pads, nite
jimmy, Custom Engineering, thats if the handbrake are same pads as the rear brakes, if not cheat and tighten till you fell to scared to drive them, but i can chase up what you need, and fit. I might work from home, but I have to do it right, not many know me, those who do happy, i dont want to stuff that.
 
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If you have alook underthe car you will see the handbrake cable( easy to follow from the rear wheels back)

Follow the cable from one side till you see where it meeets up with the other side in Y type formation (meets with other side a cable from handbrake lever).

At this point you will see a adjuster (think its a 10mm spanner JOb from memory)

If you turn this bolt one way it will tighten the cable and turning the opposite way will loosen the cable.

This is where you do the adjusting from. Just give it a few turns then check handbrake lever. And if you need more turn it some more. I think from memory 3-5 clicks is what they check for when doing a roadworthy.
dont forget the rear locking nut, its12-13 mm, or 1/2' depending which employment agency is being used, tightening cabled is short gap,it will only leave drag on pads, and then your pads ending up welding to disks, get a 10 mm ring spanner and adjust it up at the wheels until each one just starts to give a scrape sound,then back off the 10mm 1 turn. AFTER YOU BACK OF THE Y PIECE CORECTLY DESCRIBED BY previose gentleman, if it has to be pulled up a long way, some one been driving with handbrake op, if you in perth, i will adjust as per requirements, not Mr Vb or Mr bonger. I take pride in my brakes, if you choose to, you need a least 1 full bottle of fluid, to flush last years black crap from soft rubbers. I am just fussy, but its your car, if you want it done well and cheap, as i need the money for chev parts , you need brake parts to stop, email me today [email protected] no skin off my nose, but when people ask for advise and help, i give it, but I also got bills, and what i charge you wouldn't even feel. If you can spare 1-2 hours while you wait, I can do it here or at families workshop, am not fishing for work, I turn down crap, and a lot of times don't get paid cause i help out welfare scum who blow their money on pot and **** instead of replacing th money I spend on parts, so now I must ask customer to buy his own, ifloal at Repco, I will go with you to ensure the price is truely trade, which I dont benefit from this order to them and get them at trade price. Yours respectfully, And I dont have evry man and hid dog knocking on door, just those who look like being ripped off, come see, if you dont like my work, say **** off, and no loss to you or me,


RING AFTER 11AM or no answer, 94983450
Jim Richards.
Custom Engineering,
ps have VP alternator, vl alternator near new and recond dizzy for vl, in case you know some one. Vp alt, $20.00 VL $100.00, VL recond dizzy $100.00 and dash and stuff, anyway, if you want brakes donr txt me on 0406712592, if it fails, cheap import crap, then email me on [email protected] or email [email protected] NO CREDIT, NO CASH NO CODE 31
 
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Not_An_Abba_Fan

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I think you need to be set straight as far as hand brake adjustment on a Commodore goes. It has nothing to do with the disc pads, or the calipers. Inside the rear rotor is a drum, the handbrake shoes are in there.

batesey323, you shouldn't adjust the handbrake via the cable under the car, all that does id adjusts the height of the actual lever. You need to back the cable off, then take the rear wheels off, on the hub surface is a rubber grommet between the wheel studs, take that out and adjust the shoes from there. Adjust it up until the rotor stops moving, pull the handbrake lever up and release it to centralize the shoes. Check to see if the rotor turns, if it doesn't, back the adjuster off one or two clicks. Do the same for the other side. Then adjust your cable so that you have 5-7 clicks on your lever.
 
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