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Thread: vs oxygen 'pink" wire help

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    Default vs oxygen sensor "pink" wire help

    I looked at the oxygen sensor and found it had four wires 1 wHite 1 purple and 2 salmon/pink wires do I cut both salmon pink wires or what?
    Last edited by undar8ed1; 11-07-2008 at 04:04 PM.

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    Why? Are you having problems? If you are getting a no signal error from the RH sensor, then it's the purple wire you cut, if you aren't, leave it alone.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    there are two black wires, a violet & a pink wire.
    cut the pink one, its the power to the heater circuit
    the violet one is the signal wire & the black ones are earth.
    to make sure you have the correct one check it for battery voltage when the ignition is on

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    Oops, buggered that up, I thought it was the purple one. (from memory...I'm tired).
    Last edited by Not_An_Abba_Fan; 05-07-2008 at 09:52 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    Here pics of the ones I got from holden.
    Sorry for the silly question just checking?
    Looking at the first pic is the top wire the pink?
    Just the bottom two don`t look black to me.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails vs oxygen 'pink" wire help-oxygen-sensor_1.jpg   vs oxygen 'pink" wire help-oxygen-sensor_2.jpg  
    Last edited by VS_Pete_1; 05-07-2008 at 09:55 AM.
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    The correct colour wires are in the car loom, not the O2 sensor. Look at the colours of the wires on the other side of the plug.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    Thanks mate that makes more sense how
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    Quote Originally Posted by Not_An_Abba_Fan View Post
    The correct colour wires are in the car loom, not the O2 sensor. Look at the colours of the wires on the other side of the plug.
    That was the key answer, how many people would automaticly look anywhere bar the O2 loom/pigtail, that was what was needed it`s crystal clear to me now. cheers

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    Ok one last thing why is a heater connection going down to the oxygen sensor?????., I can`t think of any reason!!!

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    do you have a pic of the connector?
    ------------------------------------------------------
    ------------------------------------------------------

    Quote Originally Posted by JEZIMP View Post
    jsut quickly, wat is a ffs search, ive seen it a fair bit and not sure wat it is, so some help would b greatly appreciated on where and how to do it, thankz
    Quote Originally Posted by vcstarfirequeen View Post
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    Oh.. to bring the sensor to the operating temp faster, 300+ degrees if I remember correctly.. fancy, my VR 5.0 dosen`t have that.

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    ^^ correct, its to heat it up faster so it can switch to closed loop quicker.

    (for some reason i thought whiteknightVR94 was talking about another connector)

    They changed back to the 2 wire o2 sensors on the vt, so your not missing out on much, it actually causes more problems than what it was designed to do
    ------------------------------------------------------
    ------------------------------------------------------

    Quote Originally Posted by JEZIMP View Post
    jsut quickly, wat is a ffs search, ive seen it a fair bit and not sure wat it is, so some help would b greatly appreciated on where and how to do it, thankz
    Quote Originally Posted by vcstarfirequeen View Post
    its a 5 stud and u couldnt just weld a new stud on youd have to weld 5 new ones on i may be blonde but im not dumb

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    Quote Originally Posted by whiteknightVR94 View Post
    Ok one last thing why is a heater connection going down to the oxygen sensor?????., I can`t think of any reason!!!

    i always thought it was to burn carbon and any crap off that sticks to your O2 sensor from your exhaust, thus clogging it up and stopping it working properly

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    There is a voltage leak from the heater circuit to the signal circuit. If you are experiencing problems with O2 sensor error codes, 99% of the time it will be this. Unless the sensor is actually stuffed.

    Some people have successfully rewired the earths straight to the PCM and this fixes it also. But the easy fix is to cut the heater wire.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    Thanks for that. I havent had a direct sensor code, except for 64 which means one bank is lean - but that went away.

    Would cutting the wire in general make any difference? Regardless of whether or not I have a reading, or its stuffed?

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    It wouldn't really make any difference if it was working OK. But the 64 could relate to the voltage leak, although it is the RHS that had the problem.

    The code went away? You haven't had the PCM set the code since a reset?
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    nope, only getting code 76 - air fuel ratio bank thing since the reset. Have taken it to a mechanic, he pretty much said it could be this or could be that, which is what I was saying.

    I did switch the o2 sensors around, would that have made any difference?

    Considering cutting the wire, hoping it might get rid of the hesitation and backfires my car is getting.

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    i cut the pink wire on both left & right hand sides .
    my vs was running rough till it warmed up . couldn't find my thread on it either ....

    no great difference in cutting the wire or not , if u have no problems .

    +1 sticky = o2 sensor (cut the pink wire)

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    Hesitating and back firing? Check the purge hose on the bottom of the throttle body. It runs to the back of the manifold, if that has split or broken it will do what yours is doing.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    that hose seems ok. I checked all the hoses from the throttle body, fuel lines and the ones going to the charcoal box. everything seems in order.

    All of this happend after a degrease with the engine cover on.

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    You may have dislodged something or gotten water into one of the connectors.

    Check the plugs going to the DFI module. Another thing that isn't too common is water could have gotten between the coil pack and DFI module.

    Check all the leads too, do you have a multi meter?
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    Have checked and replaced leads and plugs.

    I'm thinking that because the problem has only been since the degrease (Saturday 25th) is probably something I have disloged or killed.

    Have taken all the coil packs off, and wd'd, also wd'd the injectors, and the air sensors on both ends, plus whatever sensor's I could reach properly on the engine.
    All to no avail.

    The plugs on the passenger side where rich, 2 of them smelling a bit like aerostart (which I havent sprayed) and the drivers side plugs where dark in places, but had some white on them - so normal.

    Am running out of ideas, and cant afford to take it to a mechanic to spend $400+ on them trying to do the same job as I am, as they have already said they don't really know.

    Thanks for your replies, they are really helping to narrow it all down.

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