what else to do?

[VRV6BT1]

G'day.

I'm fixing replacing my suspension/bushes etc.

So far iv got springs, shocks, struts, front sway linkages and bushes(h/d), tie rods and ball joints.

What other bushes should I do?

Also wann do the back end, but I'm having trouble finding rear heavy duty sway bar linkages.


Any hints/tips/pointers/rants/flames appreciated.


Cheers, thanks for reading.

[VN_Luke]

good to see you're freshening up the suspension!

the only thing I could really suggest if you want a massive difference to corner handling, is thicker swaybars - it's the single biggest improvement i've noticed when doing my suspension.

also - if it's a daily driven car, when you're changing bushes keep in mind your choice of material.

I went through my car and replaced every single bush with hard polyurethane - Great for if you want to feel everything on the road - right down to the paint lines lol! - but not so good for comfort, though! and now there's a few more creeks and groans appearing that would usually be absorbed by rubber bushes.

good luck with it and let us all know how you go!

[VRV6BT1]

Thanks for the support man.
As for the bushes I've decided to forego polyurethene and decided on urethene, apparently it has the same inherent strength with out the bone jarring stiffness, so really its the best of both worlds. The way I see it anyway......

I guess I'll find out, I would love to have it stiff as a board but iv got a handful of kids......so

[immortality]

nolathane, urethane, polyurethane. it's all the same stuff. what most poeple don't realise is that it can be formulated to give different stiffness just like rubber can. certainly try to keep the main bushes a softer urethane if possible (for ride comfort). like the front control arm inner bushes and the lower rear trailing arm bushes. definitly do the top trailing arm bushes and if oyu ca nafford it go for the adjustable ones. that way you can set the pinion angles correctly (good for lowered cars) for better traction (or worse depending on what you want). dont forget the strut tops. these are nomrally screwed by this stage

[VRV6BT1]

I've checked the strut tops, they're in good nick, my cars only got 180XXX clicks.

I was contemplating the nolathane upper rear trailing arms, the price is right and they are allot stiffer than the standard arm(which can flex under load apparently)

Does anyone have any idea about the rear sway bar linkages.

Also on the stiffer front sway bar subject, according to my research the fe2 sway bar on the front is smaller than even the standard(executive bar) to enhance the steering capabilities.
Please correct me if im wrong.

[immortality]

I've checked the strut tops, they're in good nick, my cars only got 180XXX clicks.

I was contemplating the nolathane upper rear trailing arms, the price is right and they are allot stiffer than the standard arm(which can flex under load apparently)

Does anyone have any idea about the rear sway bar linkages.

Also on the stiffer front sway bar subject, according to my research the fe2 sway bar on the front is smaller than even the standard(executive bar) to enhance the steering capabilities.
Please correct me if im wrong.

the rear doesn't need stronger sway bar linkages because it doesn't go through the same twisting action the front ones do (it's the twisting and up and down movement at the same time that kills em).

the fe2 does have a smaller front sway bar but has firmer springs. from memory this makes the front of the car more reactive, i.e. it turns in better, thedown side of this is that the rear has a tendency to step out quicker (i don't really see this a bad thing ) also know as oversteer

from the factory car are setup to understeer. simply, you go to fast and try to turn into a corner and the front wheels just skid. the quickest solution to this problem is to loose speed and get control back of the car. seeing as most poeples reaction in this situation is to hit the brake it makes it the safest option for 90% of daily drivers. by firming up the rear sway bar (or fitting a softer front sway bar) your givng the front better grip and allowing the wheels to grip and turn-in in the same high speed situation but now the rear wheels will step out in a oversteer situation (hanging it out ) if in this situation you hit the brakes your a gonner and are heading for the nearest power/phone pole/tree. not good. if you watch V8 supercars you often here the commentators refer to the adjustable bars and how they increase/decrease bars to improve turn in or improve drive etc

[VRV6BT1]

Ok cool, so if I keep the standard fe2 bars that would be best I think.

Thanks for the info on rear links.

These well intelligent, insightful and thoughtful answers are the reason I am putting stickers on my car, which I normally would NEVER do.

Im appling www,justcommodores.com.au stickers front and back.

[immortality]

i honestly think that you should do everything else first and then you can use the sway bars to tune things at the end.

ohh, don't forget the panhard rod bushes. the factory bushes were stuffed on the missus car by 80,000kms

[VRV6BT1]

Ok, no worries.
I'll replace all the bits and pieces and then toy with the sway bars.