hey all
ok my vr motor decided to blow up a couple of weeks ago i happen to get hold of a vs motor pritty cheap so i've now droped that into my car changed the ecu and the motor side of the wiring loom put every thing back together to day and tryed to start it and all it did was make a really loud clicking sound from the starter motor im going to try and change that tomorrow but im still not sure that will work my question is the side of the loom that connects to the battery would i have to change that im not to sure if thats the one that runs into the bcm cause when i turn the ignition on the only lights that come on the dash are the battery light and the handbrake light i think the oil light is spose to come on 2 anyways any help would be great
Last edited by Phoenix21; 02-11-2008 at 08:59 PM.
Might not be it but when I had that clicking noise I just needed a new battery...
make sure the battery is fully charged and or in working condition as said
I'm pretty sure he tried jumping it from another car a few times, and with no better results.
Unrelated to the starting issue:
1) Does anyone know if the BCM changed from VR to VS?
2) Would a VR BCM work with a VS ECU, given that the entire power side of the loom (relays, fuses, dash wiring) is still a VR loom?
Basically at the moment, it's an Ecotec motor, Ecotec ECU, Ecotec engine loom, but VR Buick BCM and VR Buick power loom.
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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look for an earth thats not connected to the body properly and check the charge of the battery for free at a battery shop/fitter if you dont have a multimeter. Im guessing it was the same battery when the motor blew up? how long was it sitting for? a battery that is DEAD flat will not charge (or hold a charge) whilst running/starting.
Does the fuel pump prime etc??
it helps to read properly first (need another coffee) if you dont have the engine warning light etc on the dash and only handbrake and battery then id say is a wiring issue (or bcm) BUT, the motor shouldnt crank with an inncorrect bcm so im guessing you changed that?
Well that's the funny thing, the battery ISN'T dead flat. Yes, it's the same one that the car died with, and it's been sitting in there for about three weeks, but it's got enough charge left such that the headlights, radio, etc all work. I know that doesn't indicate enough charge necessarily to crank a motor, but it's usually enough charge to turn over with a jump start.
Does the fuel pump prime? That's a good questionWe'll see what he has to say.
lol, I could use another coffee myself. I was thinking a wiring or BCM issue aswell, and came to the same conclusion as you - if the signal is getting as far as the starter and making it click, then the BCM can't be wrong...
but just to confirm - it is NOT an ecotec (VS) bcm in there, it's the VR bcm. But the car is running a VS ecotec computer and engine loom. That is to say, the passenger side loom that runs to injectors, sensors, etc... not the power loom, which runs to fuses, relays, starter motor, etc. out of the driver's side.
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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fark knows morty... was it being jumped by a battery sitting on the floor or a running car?
Also if it was a bit flat, keep it connected to a running motor for a few minutes with the donor battery car held at a fast idle.
I'm fairly certain it was a running car.I may have to drag my VQ down there and try jumping his car from mine. Off the top of my head, I think he was trying to jump it from a Magna.
I've had experiences in the past, where a VN V6 wouldn't jump from another VP V6, but it jumped just fine from a V8 Land Rover using the same set of leads![]()
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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Okay, progress:
1) Engine is turning over
2) It has spark
3) It has fuel pressure
BUT
It does NOT have an injector pulse.
He's trying to run an error code check right now, but the engine light isn't working![]()
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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Chances are being a VR 93 it would have a TDM. I think your problem is something there.
You may need the VATS wiped in the ECU.
Maybe Dr Bob can help if he see's this thread.
There are some differences in the BCMs. Also if the motor came from a calais or stato you might be having security issues. Try a VS BCM the same as the car the motor came out of.
i need another keyhead that im still thinking it could be somthing with the pcm /ecu cause ive got spark but no injectors
The security feature will do that it turns off the injector pulse but still gives power to the starter motor.
You need to get a BCM and ECU that talk. If the ecu you got was in a calias or stato then you need a high BCM. you need to match the ECU and BCM with the new motor. Sorry if this is dutch but I backed the winner of the cup and have celebrated
would it matter if one was off a vs (ecu) and one was off a vr (BCM) since i think
there the same anyways
They have to be from the same model as there are differences between the VR and VS
Did u get it going Phenoix? Would like to know what the out come was as i am doing the same conver.
All GO
Hi, Iam doing the same conversion too, would like to know as well, had my ecu tuned but still no start any help would be very gateful
i got your PM so did they turn the security off in the ecu for you
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
yes, but still not starting, do I need to change the bcm to the vs one
nope dont need a bcm at all when the security is off.on the ecu plugs make sure you have constant 12v on pins B8 & A8 which are red and black should have power all the time.and pins E9 & A4 which are pink should have 12v only when ignition is on check that is happening and get back to me with results
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
ok the B8 & A8 have no power at all and A4 has power when thw ignition is on but E9 has no power at all ?