worth it
not worth it
Just a quickie
Are they worth it or not ???
Go urethane mate
nolathane are a cheap alternative and imo should not be used on your/anyones car period!
MY RIDE 96 calais
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...96-calais.html
ALSO MY 1972 VALIANT CHARGER IN THE BUILD
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I thought Nolathane was a brand, not a type of material? Most are polyurethane anyway, just different colours.
There's nothing wrong with rubber bushes, they ride good, theyre quiet and the don't wear metal (i've seen poly chew into hanger bolts before)....
So if you're going to race it or want a firm ride, go the poly, but if it's a comfort car, stay with rubber.
ok, right. they are the same thing. nolathane is a brand (as is noltec), urethane or polyurethane is the actual product. it really depends what bushes your changing. rubber bushes are bonded to the inner crush tubes, urethane bushes aren't so allow suspension to articulate better.
panhard bushes, definitly go urethatne, same for the front Z bar bushes as the factory rubber/oil filled jobies fail often. also the top trailing arm bushes should be changed to urethane.
something that most people don't know is that urethane is available in different hardnesses so if you can find a supplier that will mix a batch that is as soft as rubber bushes then you would have the best of both worlds
urethane bushes (what ever brand) do give a firmer ride but the bushes will last longer and retain suspension geometry better when under load
Body by Holden, Soul by Brock
the Legend will live forever
VN exec T5: 15.1sec @92.2mph 1/4 mile, 9.7sec @ 74.6mph 1/8mile, 2.3sec 60ft, 0-60mph 6.827sec 22/11/07 Gtech competition
Immortality is on the right track. It entirely depends on your application. For a "normal" daily driver I'd stick with traditional rubber. For performance applications a polyurethane is probably the go (or even solid). In short a smooth ride is sacrificed for performance. The faster a car can potentially go around a corner, generally speaking, will be at the cost of ride quality. You need to decide which is more important to you.
Reaper
Sorry fellas should have explained myself a little better,The red **** is what im talking about staying away from, its too hard on the cars suspension components and chassis, meaning compared to rubber or urethane its no where near as good! the bloke i go through to do my suspension wont even use it, and he has seen bent sway bars from using it so that is why i have stayed away from it! I know its cheaper to use but i believe you get what you pay for![]()
MY RIDE 96 calais
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...96-calais.html
ALSO MY 1972 VALIANT CHARGER IN THE BUILD
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...t-charger.html
Ok thanks guys
Still making no sense. Nolathane is the brand. It is made from urathane. Just like Superpro, Noltec, Kmac. Plus I wouldn't say the Nolathane brand is cheap. Also doesn't matter whether it red, blue or black. It's still made from the same materials.
I had the front end of my car rebushed with a mix of rubber and super pro 'urathane' bushes. Rubber in the control arms and urathane everywhere else.
Car theives should be treated just like horse theives and cattle rustlers in the days of the wild west... Hang them!
Don't be stupid. Power isn't measured by the size of your tacho
According to what i was told by the bloke who done my suspension, the nolothane bushes are to rigid and place to much stress on the bar and with some of the cars he had removed them from, he found the sway bar had been slightly bent upwards! i am only going on what i have been told by a professional suspension fitter ect!
MY RIDE 96 calais
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...96-calais.html
ALSO MY 1972 VALIANT CHARGER IN THE BUILD
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...t-charger.html
can I add at this point, I work in a factory making stuff from both rubber and Polyurethane. Polyurethane, often called poly , or urethane, is available in about 100 different grades and hardnesses, from soft foam to hard as timber. So just like you can get hard rubber tyres and soft tyres, you can get soft bushes and hard bushes. Nolathane were made with a hard compound, and i hear superpro and a few others use a slightly softer compound. As said above its about getting the right balance between ride and handling.
ok so what about the upper trailing arms on the diff. with a locked diff. i just killed a set of red bushes. any ideas
i had them in for a year first then a year with the locker and 6months of that was with the blower how long do they last for?
rose jointsi think the problem is related to the locked diff and the blower. with the locked diff there is a lot of extra load applied to the suspension because the diff is always pushing straight ahead even when the car is trying to turn (effectivly the diff is acting like a steering axle and always pushing straight ahead as the car body flexes above it.) more power with good grip would make this worse. consider the bush the weak link. ifyou make it strogner something else will break instead. i have heard of the top trailing arm chassis mounts being ripped off with locked diffs so a bush failing is better me thinks
Body by Holden, Soul by Brock
the Legend will live forever
VN exec T5: 15.1sec @92.2mph 1/4 mile, 9.7sec @ 74.6mph 1/8mile, 2.3sec 60ft, 0-60mph 6.827sec 22/11/07 Gtech competition
the sway bar is under constant load. the only time the sway bar isn't under load is when the car is sitting on a flat surface with no extra loading (i.e. no driver etc) as soon as the driver gets in (and one can guestimate that most cars are in a driver only situation atleat 80% of the time) that sway bar is being loaded up primarily in one direction only. with the standard rubber bushes used in the links and the chassis mounts the rubber would take up a certain amount of that load. with polyurethane bushes used instead more of that load would be applied directly through the swaybar because polyurethane bushes don't deform under load like rubber bushes do. this makes the sway bar more effective but would place a greater load on it also.
i honestly think ifoyu found a brand new (old stock) sway bar and put it next to a a used 15 year old sway bar that the used bar is not going to be straight like the new one (even when only used with rubber bushes). sway bars are like springs they rely on the torsional strenght of the steel. with age and use they are both going to sag and loose there strength
Body by Holden, Soul by Brock
the Legend will live forever
VN exec T5: 15.1sec @92.2mph 1/4 mile, 9.7sec @ 74.6mph 1/8mile, 2.3sec 60ft, 0-60mph 6.827sec 22/11/07 Gtech competition
Agree with VT-565. Sounds like the red bushes failed cos they were too hard, and didn't flex enough so they just cracked. Perhaps try superpre or whiteline, and if they still fail you might even be best going back to a quality rubber bush like the pedders ones.
thanks for your help everyone they are just the standard arms the only way i knew that they had died was when that awful noise started from the rear on roundabouts. i looked under to see that only half of them were left not cool. the ute is only lowered very slightly as i still use it as my daily work hack and carry stuff from time to time but not enough to change the standerd shocks.