Steering Wheel Glue

[boults_4545]

Hi,

I Have a VS wagon that I need to get a rwc for in qld. The rubber of the steering wheel moves when you grab it as if the glue has gone. Has anyone fixed this themselves?

Also the left indicator flashes twice as fast as normal, the right indicator is fine. The light assembley is standard (ie not LEDs). What causes this? How do you fix it?

Cheers.

[stocky]

indicator will normally flash faster when one of the globes is blown

[boults_4545]

thanks Stocky, I'll replace globes & fuses on the weekend and see how it goes.

[hako]

I've heard of people injecting superglue in with a syringe to tighten it up but I'd figure you'd need something like Araldite or maybe silicone sealant but then they are both too thick to inject. Have also seen where people slit along where its loose , then blow/remove all the crumbly bits of rubber and then inject Sikaflex or similar using the normal cartridge gun and then put a tightly laced steering wheel cover over it....when dry there is no movement and you cannot see the slit as its under the cover.
But going to all this trouble can make a secondhand or new wheel seem attractive.
Re the flashers - as Stocky says, its probable a bulb is gone - just get someone to check them whilst you turn them on. If its a front bulb they are a special type with orange paint on them....rears are normal type.

[greenfoam]

I've fixed lots of the wheels, I don't know if I should really say how you do it because it's all to easy to stab yourself full of toxic **** :0 but a thinned out slow curing version of the first idea above is the go and it will last about forever

[boults_4545]

Thanks Hako & Greenfoam.

I thought of using a syringe but I don't know where you can buy them from? Also I wasn't sure that it would squeeze through the needle. Can you thin it down with some thinners or is there a special 'thin' type if glue on the market?

Cheers,

[88GreenVN]

I fixed a VQ Caprice wheel using a drill and some bostic glue they use to stick side mouldings on. (got from a car paint supply shop.

Step 1 with the wheel off the car drill a small hole into the back of the wheel with out ripping the outside skin too much.

Step 2 hollow out the foam usinfg the drill - this is the must be careful part - but you need to get to the metal rim and remove as much foam as you can around this rim without poking through.

Step 3 using a silastic gun pump into the hole the bostic (black) glue. This part can get messy so have some small bits of rag on the ready. Gently squeeze the wheel to make sure you have it all filled up.

Step 4 wipe off any excess glue now.

I did this to a wheel that was loose half way around the wheel and put glue into 4 spots.

Works a treat now.

[Cheap6]

Thanks Hako & Greenfoam.

I thought of using a syringe but I don't know where you can buy them from? Also I wasn't sure that it would squeeze through the needle. Can you thin it down with some thinners or is there a special 'thin' type if glue on the market?

Cheers,

It seems there are a couple of ways to go. I've done it using the epoxy too.

A syringe is easy to buy from a pharmacy but be prepared for a few questions about what you are going to use it for. Needles are available free from the printer ink refill kits (assuming that you have refilled the ink but they are only about $5-6 if you want to buy one especially). (I suppose you could roll a junkie or dig through the sand at a local beach but with that there's the potential for being stabbed with really toxic ****).

Yep, use 24hr epoxy, it will take longer than 5 minutes to mix, fill the syringe and inject.

There will be little holes left from the needle so inject from the dash side of the wheel.

It may well be easier to remove the wheel first (I didn't bother).

You need to give the adhesive somewhere to go so leave an extra hole for each injection to let the air out and allow the adhesive to flow in behind it. Fill the extra hole in only as the last step.

Keep the adhesive flowing as you withdraw the needle to fill the pin hole created by the needle. If you don't, the plastic/foam will break up starting from that weak spot.

Gently twisting the wheel will help spread the adhesive.

I'm also interested in knowing what can be used to thin epoxy as that would make it much easier.

[DannyboyDS]

i'd guess acetone as the most readily available for epoxy, however at work we use a number of solvents with epoxy resin, N butanol, N butanol acetate, Metheyl Ether Ketone (MEK) Toloune (I think thats the spelling, we call it Tolly most of the time) even Isopropanol alcohol might work (IPA)

[Joey_21]

try some hemaroid cream lol :P

[hako]

The trouble with a lot of those solvents is that they may dissolve/melt the rubber/foam material inside the rim....once you inject one you have reached the point of no return!
But then again, if they do dissolve the rubber/foam inner maybe when the solvent dries it will lock it all together without the need for a glue.

[VSIIBerlinaL67]

just get a steering wheel cover lol

[Cheap6]

i'd guess acetone as the most readily available for epoxy, however at work we use a number of solvents with epoxy resin, N butanol, N butanol acetate, Metheyl Ether Ketone (MEK) Toloune (I think thats the spelling, we call it Tolly most of the time) even Isopropanol alcohol might work (IPA)

Cool. Thanks.

[boults_4545]

Hi again, So it turns out the steering wheel had been reglued before. I've tried to reglue it again (using syringe from printer refill pack - great idea, thanks!) but it's a mess in there from the old glue and the new glue has let go again already.

I've used vb cord to lash down the rubber on the top side of the wheel and there is no movement there now. Reckon that will get through roadworthy? If not where do you recommend getting a replacement wheel from and is hard to fit yourself?

Cheers,

[DannyboyDS]

epoxy or araldite is the way to go, because it uses a catalyst to harden it will harden in the sealed enviroment, use some acetone (Or nail polish remover if your desperate its the same stuff 99% of the time) to thin it out, use a syringe from a printer cartridge refill kit, a thumb tack can be used to create a pilot hole, do it from the rear of the wheel and no one will ever know.

As Greenfoam said, this can be dangerous, but honestly, anyone old enough to drive should have the brains to do this without killing yourself, otherwise Mr Darwin says you really shouldn't be on the planet anyway.

Do it ina few spots around the wheel, every few inches or so if your keen enough. My mate did his car last year, he used RT1 a product our company makes, it sets hard as concrete, we do not know of any solvent that can break it down or even soften it, it's tough as all shit really :P If it was legal i'd start buying it and making wheel repair kits for sure.

[axemurderer101]

id say go to the wreckers to get a second hand one, the should be pretty cheap

[System]

id say go to the wreckers to get a second hand one, the should be pretty cheap

was about the same thing, some steering wheels there are actually in better condition, they r stored in shelves- not out in the sun all day

[Cheap6]

Hi again, So it turns out the steering wheel had been reglued before. I've tried to reglue it again (using syringe from printer refill pack - great idea, thanks!) but it's a mess in there from the old glue and the new glue has let go again already.

I've used vb cord to lash down the rubber on the top side of the wheel and there is no movement there now. Reckon that will get through roadworthy? If not where do you recommend getting a replacement wheel from and is hard to fit yourself?

Cheers,

I think that you're only going to get one shot at a repair in each spot as the glue (at least with epoxy) doesn't leave much space between it and the steel frame of the wheel for more (glue) and it's hard to get it there.

A replacement wheel usually won't be hard to fit, just one hut holding it in place after the horn cover is removed. Mark the steering column with a felt tip pen before starting so that you can centre the new wheel.

If the nut hasn't been overtightened, the wheel will simply pull off. It will be tight on the tapered splines so you will have to pull quite hard and a gentle wriggle of the wheel helps. Leave the nut on the last few threads to avoid a facial injury when the wheel comes off.

If the wheel is really tight on the splines you can buy a steering wheel puller () for the purpose quite inexpensively from any auto parts store (or even K-mart).

[boults_4545]

Thanks for the replies. The wheel has an airbag, is it still easy to remove/replace?

cheers

[boults_4545]

OK found the relavent posts. Cheers.

[desone]

Hi,

I Have a VS wagon that I need to get a rwc for in qld. The rubber of the steering wheel moves when you grab it as if the glue has gone. Has anyone fixed this themselves?

Also the left indicator flashes twice as fast as normal, the right indicator is fine. The light assembley is standard (ie not LEDs). What causes this? How do you fix it?

Cheers.

I had the same problem with my VX Series II Berlina. The guy who did the roadworthy wanted $50 to inject some super-glue in it.

The filling inside the steering wheel is a foam rubber type compound. I have heard of reports of the glue reacting with the foam rubber inside.

I repaired mine this way.

I went to K-Mart and purchased a soccer ball pump for about $6.50. It is like a large hyperdermic needle. The one I chose was a Spalding. Where the brass needle screws in is a small rubber valve with a ball-bearing in the center. I pushed out the ball bearing and used a drill to remove much of the rubber. Take care not to damage the brass thread.

I then filled the body of the pump with Selleys Aquadere wood glue. This is a water based glue which won't dissolve the foam rubber filling. Stay clear from any solvent based glued. I cut the needle part of the pump down to eliminate the outlet on the side of the needle. This reduced the length by about 1cm.

You will find that some gule will run out the handle end of the pump. It's a good idea to have a rag to stop any drips.

I then injected the glue into the steering wheel from behind at about four points.

You have to use a reasonable amount of pressure but be careful not to bend the pump sharft of brass needle. It's a good idea to buy some spare needles. K-Mart don't sell the correct size but Super Cheap do.

If you have applied the correct amount of glue, you will notice that the freeplay will dissappear but the movement will still be there i.e. the wheel cam still be twisted.

It will take about 2-3 hours for the glue to set and should be ok. Just don't try to twist it before the glue sets.

[kritter]

I used superglue in a syringe , you can buy them at a chemist [they may think you are a junkie though] not a problem they cant do anything as it is their job , tell them what you are doing if you want.
Be patient if you do this as the glue doesnt set as fast as normal due to no air available , but it does work fine and mine is still strong as after a year. Kritter

[jeffr001]

The solution is Loctite 480 as it is made specifically for bonding rubber and steel.

Loctite ® 480™ Prism ® Low viscosity, black, rubber toughened, one part, room temperature cure, instant adhesive designed for bonding metal, rubber and selected plastics. Excellent peel, impact and sheer strength. NSF-61 approved. Around $20 for 25ml bottle (April 2011).

Go to your local needle exchange and get a large gauge needle and syringe. Inject glue at a number of positions and then allow to cure. You have to be quick, the working time is around 2 minutes !

Be careful as the glue is black. Clean up with acetone.

[Cracka]

You have to remember one thing when thinning an epoxy that you are putting into a near air-tight situation, the solvent has to go somewhere.

Did anyone ever consider that you can heat the part A and B seperatly to around 60 degrees, they will be allot easier to work with and inject this way, also a VET may have a larger needle, like for horses. Areldite will work fine under these circumstances.

I have used a 100% solids epoxy heated as I mentioned above, I thinned it with 1% IMS and injected it using a syringe from an ink refill kit, they key is to ensure you have punctured through the steering wheel and into a vacant cavity. It helps that heavy duty and industrial coatings are what I do.

After injecting the glue, grab the wheel and twist the rubber around (The same way that you no longer want it to twist) this will spread the good stuff.

[hako]

Those are good points Cracka, heating and injecting into an empty space and then twisting the grip to distribute it....excellent tips.