Too Hot To Handle...

[mrhotdog]

hey all

ever since i did my coolant flush about a few weeks ago, temp doesnt want to stay down, yes i used the correct ratio of concentrate:water. it didnt take as much as i thought when i did it though. thermo fan doesnt come on at 3/4 anymore either, i left it idling to see how high it would go but ended up throwin air con on over 3/4. no visable leaks but overflow and/or rad level doesnt stay constant level for long.

im thinkin either temp gague sender - hard to replace?
coolant temp sensor?

any help appreciated..

[undar8ed1]

Air trapped in the system? thermostat not opening?

[mrhotdog]

for a few days after i flushed it i checked level, bled from screw until coolant comes out. then bled again when warm after driving. seem to go away, now somehow air has returned so i bled it this afternoon. somehow air keeps gettin in there, can hear gurgling noise from behind dash. thermostat was replaced in june by mech

[andyman]

was the heater tap opened up to max hot when you bleed and flushed it? sounds like it may be your problem

[mrhotdog]

yes it was, today i forgot to do it though. but how is air going back in and my coolant dropping? ive had the head gasket and timimg cover gasket replaced within the last 6 months..

[6 shooter]

yes it was, today i forgot to do it though. but how is air going back in and my coolant dropping? ive had the head gasket and timimg cover gasket replaced within the last 6 months..

Did you get the heads retorqued after about 1000ks? because the new head gasket compresses after a while and could possibly leak again.
Or you could check the heater tap just run your fingers near where the pipes go in and see if theres coolant coming out because there common to crap out because of the plastic

[Cheap6]

This has been an ongoing problem for some time hasn't it?

How are you checking the level, with the dipstick in the surge tank or are you lifting the radiator cap? If you are undoing the radiator cap you will let a little bit of air into the system each time.

Otherwise, if it is bled properly, it has to be leaking somewhere.

Apart from the obvious - hoses, water pump, radiator and radiator cap - you might try:

Looking for leaking welch plugs, but that's not usually a problem in VS. There should be one at each end of the cyl. heads, two each side of the block and there might be one or two at the back of the block, if they're not covered by the rear main oil seal housing. (I think that the rear main oil seal housing gasket also seals coolant but it's been a while since I've looked at one.)

The knock sensors, one on each side, may screw into the water jacket.

You might try some paper under the car to catch the water out of the A/C drain to see if the heater core is leaking coolant to there.

A small leak may dry so you are looking for light brown stains with a powdery residue.

[mrhotdog]

Did you get the heads retorqued after about 1000ks? because the new head gasket compresses after a while and could possibly leak again.
Or you could check the heater tap just run your fingers near where the pipes go in and see if theres coolant coming out because there common to crap out because of the plastic

Mechanic didnt mention retorquing or anything. like i said no visable signs of leakage from hoses, heater tap

This has been an ongoing problem for some time hasn't it?

How are you checking the level, with the dipstick in the surge tank or are you lifting the radiator cap each time? If you are undoing the radiator cap you will let a little bit of air into the system each time.

Otherwise, if it is bled properly, it has to be leaking somewhere.

Apart from the obvious - hoses, water pump, radiator and radiator cap - you might try:

Looking for leaking welch plugs, but that's not usually a problem in VS. There should be one at each end of the cyl. heads, two each side of the block and there might be one or two at the back of the block, if they're not covered by the rear main oil seal housing. (I think that the rear main oil seal housing gasket also seals coolant but it's been a while since I've looked at one.)

The knock sensors, one on each side, may screw into the water jacket.

You might try some paper under the car to catch the water out of the A/C drain to see if the heater core is leaking coolant to there.

A small leak may dry so you are looking for light brown stains with a powdery residue.

yes my coolant problem has been ongoing to some extent, but i thought i had fixed it. surge tank level only stays high for a day or two max so i check level from cap when cold, usually have to add a little bit. i normally cold bleed after this. no visable signs of leakage, but since flush like i said the temp has been going up faster when running on LPG. im puttin it in for new bushes in a few weeks so ill get them to check then, but im at my wits end with this stupid problem....

[Cheap6]

Sometimes the LPG converter can be located in such a way as to make bleeding difficult. That's another potential leak point too.

At the risk of asking the obvious again, when you bleed the system is the level of coolant at the filler lifted higher than the bleed screw with a funnel?

[mrhotdog]

i guess so, i fill up then cold bleed, go for drive then bleed when i come back, ive been bleeding with engine off but im sure thats what ur supposed to do. where its going is still a mystery

[stocky]

damn, i saw the thread title and thought it was about me.


also, no you dont bleed while the engines off, do it while its on. just leave the car running with the radiator cap off, but you should also put an upside down milk/juice container over it with more water in it. seal up the bottle top with electrical tape or something to make a better seal with the radiator cap hole

[VS_Pete_1]

Mods we need a sticky on bleeding air out.
I keep seeing members with problems with air in system.
And have put my two cents worth in other posts.
We could call it How To Bleed A Coolant System. LOL