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Thread: Replacing upper locating arms in the arse-end (diff housing)

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    Default Replacing upper locating arms in the arse-end (diff housing)

    So yeah, last new years I cleaned up a light pole. Rooted the axel, panard, rim, pride etc. Mechanic told me that I'd eventually need to change "both upper locating arms to diff housing".

    I'm getting a messed up creaking, grinding noise from the arse-end when I hit the anchors or when I hit dips. So I'm assuming that I've put off replacing said locating arms a bit to long.

    As usual, ellerys has come up useless. But I've been under the rig & the bushes look shot-to-shi'ite.

    Is this a job I can do myself? Or am I gonna have probs with the springs?

  2. #2
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    Should not be too hard, if you can get the arms off the car all you should need is a decent vice and some packers and maybe a hammer ... trying not to bend anything. Rear springs generally almost fall out when you lift the rear end.

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    hako is offline Donating Member
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    I presume it's a solid rear end so the job is simplicity - jack up the rear body then put another jack under the spring to take a bit of the weight off then undo the bolt from either end. replace complete arm or if you're keen burn the old bushes out and press new ones in. Complete arms were about $45 each a few years ago. Gregorys has a good write-up on it.

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    Cheers boys!

    Yeah, no IRS. But why would I put a jack under the spring, when I'm jacking up the chassis? Wouldn't that add pressure?
    I'm sure I'll figure it out when I actually get into it, does anyone know of an online write-up anywhere?

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    I think he means once the car is already on stands, so that the weight of the rear end isn't hanging on the 4 control arms but also not undr tension from the springs.
    Disconnect your shockies and panhard bar also before starting to remove the upper control arms.
    Those arm are on eBay all the time and most suspension places have change over units.
    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Commodore-VK-...QQcmdZViewItem
    HSV VZ LS2 Senator, Stealth2 cam 307rwkw.http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ados-blue.html
    VS11 Berlina L67 super6 wagon 196rwkw. http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ified-cai.html

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    I usually leave the Panhard rod in place. The arms should go back in the same direction that they come out of. The easiest way is mark them with paint first.

    If they are rubber bushes they twist with suspension movement and have to be clamped to the brackets on the chassis and axle (the bolts tightened fully) with the suspension at ride height. Do that with the new arms in place but the nuts loose, with the car on 4 stands and level, (with just the rear lifted some weight is transferred onto the front wheels) and the rear stands under the axle tubes, as distinct from the car body/chassis.

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