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Thread: High Revs + Orange Engine Light...

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    Question High Revs + Orange Engine Light...

    Hey guys, I hope someone can help me out, I am a bit clueless so laymans terms would be awesome, but I have a '95 VS Berlina, Ecotech 3.8 V6 Auto, in the last couple days the little orange engine light on my dash has come on.
    Also, I do a fair bit of city driving and usually sit between 10-12L p100k, now I am at 16-18L.
    as a little more info, when in cruise @ 100K on freeway i used to be at 1700-1800RPM, now up past 2500... I have changed the plug leads as the forum said that was a common issue, but to no avail, like i said i am clueless, but if anyone can help, even advice so i dont get ripped if i need to get it repaired would be awesome... THX

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    Quote Originally Posted by killersaint View Post
    Hey guys, I hope someone can help me out, I am a bit clueless so laymans terms would be awesome, but I have a '95 VS Berlina, Ecotech 3.8 V6 Auto, in the last couple days the little orange engine light on my dash has come on.
    Also, I do a fair bit of city driving and usually sit between 10-12L p100k, now I am at 16-18L.
    as a little more info, when in cruise @ 100K on freeway i used to be at 1700-1800RPM, now up past 2500... I have changed the plug leads as the forum said that was a common issue, but to no avail, like i said i am clueless, but if anyone can help, even advice so i dont get ripped if i need to get it repaired would be awesome... THX
    Hi mate.

    Sounds like something to do with your trans, i'm thinking the lock up on the converter or could simply be your trans fluid too low. Check the simple things first and see if you come up with anything.

    PS. When was the transmission last serviced?

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    new plugs mate, similar issue with my commodore, hitting 120Kms it'd almost reach 2700rpm, now it sits at 2000rpm...
    I think the plugs i have are the platnium bosch plugs, an absolute dead easy task to do yourself!
    go to supersh*t auto grab some reasonably good plugs, a good socket wrench for removing plugs and change em round, i'd also check trans fluid, air filter, thottlebody (the thing your air intake hose connects to on top of your engine) for gunk! ummm and of course check error codes! look for the how to on this forum if you need to know what you need to do for that!
    Good luck

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    If the engine light has come on, then there is hopfully an error code logged. Have a look here Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised) on how to do it. There is also a list of what the numbers will mean, it on here. I'll see if i can find it, here it is http://www.justcommodores.com/articles/fault_codes.php
    Once you've got the code and still need help, post back up and we may be able help
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

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    OK i am about to embark on the plug & trans checking mission, as for service, it was a brand new trans about 18months ago, and the last service it had was about 4 months ago...
    wish me luck lol

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    yeah mate check errors first, as i would highly recommend you do!
    other than that, checking plugs etc is one thing, but do not make the same mistake i did and snap off the plug in the engine block, be carefull
    good luck

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    ^^^^^Dont worry about doing plugs trans ect.. yet. The easiest way to get some direction is to is check the error codes, a 5 min easy job. If the engine light has come on, then it will not be a spark plug. High fuel consumption with an engine light is going to be more like a sensor error somewhere.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

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    Quote Originally Posted by -=ApheX=- View Post
    yeah mate check errors first, as i would highly recommend you do!
    other than that, checking plugs etc is one thing, but do not make the same mistake i did and snap off the plug in the engine block, be carefull
    good luck
    Rightey tightey, lefty loosey lol

    How the hell did you do that?

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    Quote Originally Posted by VT-565 View Post
    Rightey tightey, lefty loosey lol

    How the hell did you do that?
    haha yeah one of the plugs was farked and burnt out, basically it crumbled once i started unbolting it...
    wasn't a pleasant means to an end!

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    its not limp home, that has happened before when alternator packed it in...
    it rained as soon as i went out to do my stuff today i will try get it all coded and checked tommorow thanks for all the advice so far tho guys...

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    OK, I got Code 82, "1-2 Shift Control Solenoid Fault"... tell it too me straight guys, it sounds expensive lol...

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    Quote Originally Posted by killersaint View Post
    OK, I got Code 82, "1-2 Shift Control Solenoid Fault"... tell it too me straight guys, it sounds expensive lol...
    Check the wiring to the box and the plugs first, failing that, take it to a good trans place.

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    I dont know what the criteria is for the computer to log that fault, but it seema as if the problem is going to be with the auto box. And yes it can become expensive if you have to rebuild it. But if it comes to that you are are far better off just looking for a second hand one that you know is working and just swap it out. But it could be just somthing simple.
    As above, take it to a trans shop and have them do a diagnosis on it. Theres not much you can do at home on a g/box to fix it, it is definatly more of a specialist feild, the olny thing you can really do is change the oil in it, but thats even a long shot.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

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    Quote Originally Posted by killersaint View Post
    OK, I got Code 82, "1-2 Shift Control Solenoid Fault"... tell it too me straight guys, it sounds expensive lol...
    You can change the solenoid yourself - it costs about $40 to $70 for the solenoid plus oil and gasket. An auto shop should do it for maybe $150 - $200. The solenoid simply clips in plus an electrical connector. Someone on this forum outlined how he did it (identical fault) about 2 months ago so maybe a search will turn it up. It is also possible that it is a wiring fault.
    The code 82 will put your car in LHM (limp home mode) which is why it wouldn't go into 4th and chews juice.

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    so the solenoid is inside the trans? might just get a place to do it... holden accutally put in a new trans in oct 07, and it was last serviced in july and i didnt drive it from sept until about 3 weeks ago, on the receipt for the trans it does seem to state what the warranty is (month or km's) so if i call holden about it, do you think they'll hook me up? or just shaft me?
    again guy sorry for my ignorance... cars just arent my thing eh...

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    I had this very same problem about 4 months ago, the trans was farked, had the error come up, so i picked up a solinoid, took it to Holden they said nope your trans is farked! so yeah after $450 later for a second hand reco one, my car feels like brand new again, this reco trans i had purchased had new solinoids placed in it, and it feels ultra smooth, or at least it did until i had my shift kit installed!

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    This is the 1-2 Shif Solenoid
    [IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\FAS\Desktop/Shift Solinod[/IMG]

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    Quote Originally Posted by fasamr View Post
    This is the 1-2 Shif Solenoid
    [IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\FAS\Desktop/Shift Solinod[/IMG]
    Quote Originally Posted by fasamr View Post
    Shift Solenoid
    C:\Documents and Settings\FAS\Desktop\Shift Solinod.JPG
    You might wanna host them somwhere. Somehow i dont think it works from your desktop
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

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    anotherm common foult that i have seen is the wiring in the trans burnt out, either ither the trans pan needs to come off........

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    90% of problems are because of a dirty engine from carbon build up.

    Buy 2 cans of caby cleaner ($12 ea), take off the intake to the TB, insert nozzle and pump away (If its bad, one won't be enough). You will see the black carbon crap pour out of it. Do the IAC and EGR valves as well (take them apart and clean them). Also, do you injectors.

    Then get some new leads and plugs. You will notice a HUGE difference immediately.

    Other than that, it could be the Throttle Position Sensor needs replacing (about $30-40 I think).

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    Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised)
    I would suggest read back through the above posts and click on the link provided!!! Post #4 to be exact!
    Good luck

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