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Thread: VT front brakes on VR???

  1. #1
    Torrie_Man's Avatar
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    Arrow VT front brakes on VR???

    Hey all, this might have been covered but im getting confused by what some people are telling me... So... What exactly do u need to put Twin piston VT callipers on the front of a VR commy?

    Ive heard of a conversion ring to take up the slack around the hub.
    Ive also heard od getting DBA to knock you up some custom disks.
    ive heard of putting VT front hubs on the vr?
    so what i need to know is, does any of this work? if so what is the cheapest?
    does the VT brakes bolt up to the VR calliper mounting postions or do u need a special bracket? Also Do u need custom brake lines?

    Any info would be much appreciated
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    Cobez's Avatar
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    I believe you need an adaptor plate for the caliper to bolt onto??? Don't quote me on that though.
    Quote Originally Posted by wikky
    As already stated, mate you're an absolute gherkin strummer.

  3. #3
    VrWagz1's Avatar
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    The cheapest way out is the hub spacer rings so you can use standard vt rotors, you can also opt for the custom made vt-vr special made rotors by dba, but they are dearer. The calipers bolt diectlt into the vr mounting holes. The standard brake lines of the vt's wont work as they are too short when you turn the wheel on full lock. Any brake shop will be able to knock you up a set of adaptor brake lines for between $70-$100. It will all bolt up nice and easy then. Atleast grab yourself a 1" master to off a vn/p v8 too to bolt on as the standatrd 15/16 one on the vr's is a little small and you will get a low pedal, the 1" still has a low pedal but its a bit better
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
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  4. #4

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    i did this mod a few weeks ago. its best to buy a kit, holmart sell these for about $400.
    you need:
    1) vt calipers
    2) vt rotors
    3) vt pads
    4) brakes lines to suit
    5) adaptor ring

    you can fit VT hubs, but the adaptor ring on a standard hub does exactly the same thing. DBA make special rotors to fit a standard hub, but again its more $$ and confusion when you need to replace them.
    with a standard hub + spacer ring you can use off-the-shelf VT rotors and pads, i reckon that the easiest way.

  5. #5
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    VT BRAKE UP-GRADE KIT FOR (VR-VS)

    that doesnt seem too bad, looking at doing this myself. is it an issue with abs models at all?

    1995 Manual HSV Clubsport
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    1991 Supercharged VN Berlina
    9 PSI SC14 Intercooled :: Genie headers :: Twin cats :: HM Twin 2.25 exhaust :: 3.45:1 LSD




  6. #6
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    ABS still works just like normal, no matter which master cylinder you use.
    All things being equal if you use rubber brake hoses on VT calipers fitted to pre VT commies will give a low spongy pedal.
    Most kits come with at least braided front hoses although replacing all five rubber hoses with braided lines will give you much pedal feel
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  7. #7

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    brainded hoses will not really improve pedal feel.
    the pedal is a little lower- but i have found it still brakes incredibly well.

    if you don't like the pedal, buy a vt booster/master assembely. you will need a bracket made up to fit the booster to the firewall, and a 1cm spacer between master and booster to compensate for pushrod length.

    if you want to do the conversion, get the holmart kit. without a new master/booster it will still brake perfectly well, and the vt booster/master will take a lot more effort but can be done later.

  8. #8
    VrWagz1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by B3ND3R View Post
    brainded hoses will not really improve pedal feel.
    the pedal is a little lower- but i have found it still brakes incredibly well.

    if you don't like the pedal, buy a vt booster/master assembely. you will need a bracket made up to fit the booster to the firewall, and a 1cm spacer between master and booster to compensate for pushrod length.
    Whats the spacer between the booster and master??? If you got a vt/z booster and master they bolt straight together, no spacer required.

    ABS is fine, i got abs on mine and it works as intended.

    I didnt like the pedal with the standard master/booster setup, i thought it was extremely dangerously low.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

  9. #9
    chromic's Avatar
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    I asked the bloke behind the counter at the wreckers who was selling the lines, rotors and calipers off a vt if I can bolt everything up as is, he said I could but didn't mention the lower pedal when I asked about getting a 1" brake booster.

    So how much lower is the pedal after the 1" brake booster is fitted compared to when it was standard?

  10. #10
    VrWagz1's Avatar
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    Pick yourself up a 1" master cheap if you can, and just try it with your standard master and if you dont like it then you can fit the 1", and if you still dont like it then go for vt master booster setup. Theres more then enough threads around that should provide you with plenty of info.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

  11. #11

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    i have put the bigger vt brakes on my vs i still have the standard master but its brand new the pedal feel is awesome and with the slotted rotors it pulls up really well!

  12. #12
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    Spacer is to get pedal height right without touching pushrod hole...other blokes weld up hole and drill new hole 113 mm from bolt up face(easiest)....some others cut pushrod further down where it is round remove the 10 or so mm and sleeve and weld it..you could even thread it and use a threaded sleeve so you could adjust it although once set you never adjust it again.
    Last edited by markovr; 27-12-2008 at 08:48 AM.
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