Stuffed Coil

[sydsider66]

Ive had a stalling problem lately.Got it to the mechanics.He said it was more than likely the CAS.He took it to a nearby Holden dealership to confirm it was just that.$220 later,had the CAS changed.
Jumped in the car a few days later.Same thing again.Had to wait 30 mins to start again.Then got home.Called the mechanic and told him its probably the DFI module or coils.He disagreed.As it probably wouldnt start if it was them.Said it was probably the wiring from the CAS to the DFI.
I hadnt changed the module as advised to on JC.Changed the plugs and leads and it seemed to get rid of the stalling.I never drove the car more than 30 mins at a time,But it seemed that when the couple of times it left me stranded was on hot summer days with the air/con on.
Ran perfectly,then would just stall anywhere.I remember reading a post on here about checking the resistance of the coils and making sure the Dfi and coil connections are clean,and that the DFI was supplying power to the coils.Did that.Bought a $13 multimeter from Supercheap.
Have never used one before,but did a crash course on the net to learn how to operate it.Its amazing what you can find with this handy tool.Bought a Gregorys.Done a test on the coils.I found that one of them was stuffed.Was way out of wack.Around 12-18 ohm resistance and jumping all over the place on the readings.
Holden couldnt work it out.The owner of the mechanical repair couldnt work it out.But i worked it out,Just be very,very wary of so called qualified high tech BULLCRAP.Now how come Holden couldnt work it out?Wouldnt have been too hard for the top notch high charging ripoff merchants that are around.Would have cost $300 for a new DFI.It looks like a cheap bit of crap.Not worth that.Instead its costing $100 for a new coil.Hows that? And who knows how much more i wouldve been charged by the mechanic to try to work it out.Only to be left STRANDED AGAIN.Young players be vary wary.Hope this helps someone.

[kopper69]

Nice work sydsider66. Did you disconnect the coil when you checked it? ie you removed it from the DFI module. Just seems strange that the reading would 'jump all over the place'. The coil pack is just a coil of wire. I would expect a very stable measurement even if it did have a small break in the wire. Just in case you are interested you can pick up an aftermarket coil pack from repco for around $55 if you needed to save some $.

Just wondering though, have you put it in and tested it out? It would just be a little odd that one coil pack would cause it to stall and not start. The reason being that there are 6 cylinders, and the other cylinders should keep the car running (very rough) even if one or two were not firing.

If you havent tested it, you put the new coil pack in and it still plays up, get a DFI module with the coil packs from the wreckers or ebay. You should be able to get the lot for around $50 - $75.

[sydsider66]

Gday kopper69.Yeah i took them off.2 tested within the required resistance,and were stable.But one was going from 7 to 19 ohms tested when cold.When hot tested between 7 to 11 ohms.Whether that makes a difference.That was secondary resistance.Primary resistance was stable between the 3 coils.All within specified primary resistance.But i didnt check the Dfi module properly.Ill do that in the morning.Only has a 12 volt test light check in the Gregorys to test the Dfi module.Ill do a test with a multimeter.

Replaced coil from Holden For $93.Tested it before i put it in and gave a stable reading as the other 2 coils.Yeah i might grab the coils from Repco in future.Yeah your right about only running on less cylinders if a coil is stuffed.

But it was running on all cylinders before i changed to the new coil. Could it be an intermittent coil problem? And maybe the Dfi module will give a good reading when cold,but when hot starts to play up? Thats when its stalled on me twice.Hot days.A/C on.After 30 minutes of constant driving.Im learning fast. Thanks.