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Thread: my heater wont work

  1. #1
    wookie_666 is offline wookie
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    Default my heater wont work

    hey guys, new member here, just to introduce myself quickly. i bought a 96 vs series 2 executive for two grand. the whole car is pretty good. bit of rust. but my heater doesn't work at all. with the air con on or off, when i turn it to heat, there is no change.

    now i know my wire that pulls the white mechanism on the left of the drivers foot well, all the way open and closed, but it doesn't actually hit the black solenoid.
    i have read the thread about fixing that. but the wierd thing is that it is about 20 mm away when the cold is all the way turned. the copper wires that are right next to that. are freezing cold even when the car is warmed up. i know the coolant flows through the heater core.

    now my question is where should i start looking for troubleshooting problems to fix this myself. or should i get it done professionally.

    thanks in advance and i am looking forward to getting to know you guys and girls.

    wookie

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    Ozzie's Avatar
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    If no coolant (hot) is flowing to the heater core - heater tap could be buggered and not openning. I'd start there...

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    dufus is offline Donating Member
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    Yep, start with the heater tap, ~$27 from an automotive store or ~$30 from Holden.

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    wookie_666 is offline wookie
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    Default .

    are those copper pipes the ones that lead to the heater core. Where abouts is the heater core and where abouts it the heater tap? Thanks for the help

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    Quote Originally Posted by wookie_666 View Post
    are those copper pipes the ones that lead to the heater core. Where abouts is the heater core and where abouts it the heater tap? Thanks for the help
    The pipes you are refering to go into and out of the heater core, and an expensive problem to fix if it is the problem

    The heater tap is under the bonnet below the brake fluid resevoir. It will have 4 hoses attached to it and a little metal thing on top with a vacuum hose attached. Disconnet the vacuum hose and see if you get any heat. You can also check whether the actuator (the small crank below the little metal thing) is actually working at the same time. If it seems jammed you need a new heater tap.

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    wookie_666 is offline wookie
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    ok thanks so if i get no heat and the actuator is jammed i need a new heater tap. If i get heat at the heater tap. I need a new heater core?0is that right.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wookie_666 View Post
    ok thanks so if i get no heat and the actuator is jammed i need a new heater tap. If i get heat at the heater tap. I need a new heater core?0is that right.
    I'd say that pretty much wraps it up - Put another post up after you do the tests

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    If that does not work its possible that some one has made a by-pass to the heater core as they may of had a problem with the heater core or the inlet is blocked with crap, when you replace your heater tap (which I beleive is the problem) you need to drop most of your water anyway so why not drop it all and do a complete flush including your heater core.

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    wookie_666 is offline wookie
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    ive actually been told that the white lever at the back of the dash which opens the valve is actually broken. and not opening the valve properly inturn no actually doing anything. so i guess ill ind out soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wookie_666 View Post
    ive actually been told that the white lever at the back of the dash which opens the valve is actually broken. and not opening the valve properly inturn no actually doing anything. so i guess ill ind out soon.
    Fair enough - but to check the heater tap, just disconnect the vacuum hose on the heater tap actuator while the car is running. If your heater tap is working, the heater pipes will heat up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wookie_666 View Post
    ive actually been told that the white lever at the back of the dash which opens the valve is actually broken. and not opening the valve properly inturn no actually doing anything. so i guess ill ind out soon.
    So the lever is stuck and can`t move away from the valve? its easy to take off the white bit and move it along the thread, it justs unwrap`s/unclicks from the rod.
    WK

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    so ive fixed it. the heater tap actuator had a zip tie around it. so even if i did turn it to heat, the actuator didn't move which didn't open the valve. i took it off and it worked. so i guess its not the heater core.. and i fixed the white lever behind the dash too. thanks for your help guys.

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    hi ive got a prob with my heater fan where i have no control over the speed of the fan and i was told by an auto electrician that my heater fan resistor was buggered and it needs to be replaced. And i was wondering where its located and what it looks like and if sum1 could help me out it would be well apreciated.

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    Quote Originally Posted by stevey86 View Post
    hi ive got a prob with my heater fan where i have no control over the speed of the fan and i was told by an auto electrician that my heater fan resistor was buggered and it needs to be replaced. And i was wondering where its located and what it looks like and if sum1 could help me out it would be well apreciated.
    Here are 2 links that will guide you step by step. Hope this fits the bill.

    Replacing the Fan Speed Resistor

    VN-VS Fan Speed Resistor Removal

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    hey guys i had the same problem with my heater.
    I replaced to heater tap and with the vacuum hose off, i get heat. So thank you for the help.
    The problem now is when i put the vacuum line back on it goes back to cold again.
    Can you help me out??

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    If you have climate control, I'd say that you vacuum solenoid block is misbehaving.

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    Forgive me, but I am not familiar with the conventional air-con. If memory serves, if you do some searching, there is something about a white clip near the the heater pipes that gets disconnected that causes problems. Sorry I can't be of any more help than that.

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